Syonyk Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 That wasn't fun... On a highway interchange, my front right lower ball joint failed. Where "failed" turns out to be "The nut backed off & the bottom stud bounced out of the control arm." Anyway, the expected drama occurred, I got it to the side in one piece, got it towed up on a flatbed, and now I need to fix it. The inner CV joint is torn apart, and I have no nut. The tire got bounced around in the wheel well on the way off the flatbed, so it probably stressed the upper strut mount a good bit. Still looking for a place locally (Downers Grove, IL - West Chicago suburbs) with halfshafts, but I have a replacement 350 miles away. Is there any problem with putting a new nut on the ball joint (or replacing the ball joint - the rubber is torn), removing the chunk of halfshaft, and running it back in 4WD? Or should I be replacing other things as a result of the wheel bouncing around? It probably means it's time to totally redo the suspension before winter, too... I may do this after I pull the engine & replace the rear main. Anyone around Chicagoland have a halfshaft they want to part with? Or want to get a beer? My current goal is making sure I can safely make it 350 miles at highway speeds, but if anything else is likely damaged, I want to replace it before I head out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 not sure what exactly you're trying to do - sounds like drive it 350 miles to get it "home" or something? that's fine. install the ball joint nut and call it a day. it'll be fine. you may need a die (1.25 pitch thread) to chase the threads if they're all banged up from coming up. the nut might not thread on to easily. i wouldn't worry too much about it. check to make sure the strut isn't leaking fluids and replace the ball joint with a new one (and make sure it's properly torqued and the castle nut installed this time:lol:) get a Subaru or MWE axle, the aftermarkets are garbage. just do a search here if you don't know what i'm talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syonyk Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 Yes, the goal is to get it "home" - so I can spend another few dozen hours cursing at it. Right now, I can't even get the axle out. I've replaced axles before & recall them being difficult, but not impossible. I can get maybe half an inch of movement with a puller pressing on the shaft before it sticks, and I'm not comfortable putting in excess of about 100 ft/lbs on the puller, as I don't recall it being this difficult, and it just sticks. There's plenty of space for the axle to come out on the back. If I don't get the axle out, I can't get a good angle to pound on the lower control arm to help pop out the ball joint. And, for that matter, it seems like I need a spring compressor to tighten the spring enough to get the knuckle back in the control arm - or I need to disconnect the control arm or something. AND, I noticed that the rest of the front suspension nuts aren't cotter pinned either! Not good... *sigh* Anyone in Chicagoland want to give me a hand? Or buy a 92 Subaru Loyale cheap? I'm getting really tired of dealing with this Is it possible that the wheel flopping around damaged the bearings or such? I really don't recall axles being this much of a bear to get out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 bearings are probably fine. im' not sure what all transpired but maybe the cv joint is hosed, like broken/locked internally? EA82 axles do suck. maybe it's just rust, most likely it should just come out. pound on the control arm to get out the ball joint? just use a pickle fork man, that's definitely the way to go. takes 2 seconds with a pickle fork and works 100% of the time. i'm not really familiar with EA82's, it's been a long time since i messed with one, but hopefully you can replace the ball joint without removing the axle? but then again your axle boot is torn isn't it? well, at least you can drive it like that for a bit. speaking of which, if the boot i only torn then you could have it rebooted assuming it didn't get damaged in the carnage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syonyk Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 The DOJ came apart at some point (the boot is holding it together) - so I either need to replace the axle, reassemble the axle, or remove the center section of axle. All require getting the axle out. And I'm having trouble finding an axle locally. The ball joint is separated from the lower control arm - this is the failure that caused me to need a tow truck. I'm not sure how to get it out of the knuckle - I can't really get a good angle on it with the axle in the way. The boot is torn, but I suppose I could try to just stick it back in the lower control arm & put a bolt on it, to get home. Unfortunately, that still leaves the axle as an issue, since I'm pretty sure it's non-serviceable right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syonyk Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 Ok, I got the axle out. "Bigger hammer" was pretty much what was needed (with the nut on the end of the threads). How the fsck does one disassemble an outer CV joint? I've got the boots off, staring at the grease filled area, and I'm a bit lost now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 um, i'm not sure, i believe there's like a circlip somewhere that needs to come out. it's messy, get all the grease out to find the clip. if you're trashing the axle and just need the end CV to install into the hub to get home, you can bash i to bits with a BFH until it separates. i've done that before for the same reason, to install the outer cv cup into the hub (without the axle attached). could you leave the axle in for the drive home as a last resort? just reinsall the old cracked boot? wrap i in saran wrap and duct tape to keep grease in and dirt out. sorry, i'm not sure if you're just trying to get home or fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syonyk Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 um, i'm not sure, i believe there's like a circlip somewhere that needs to come out. it's messy, get all the grease out to find the clip. if you're trashing the axle and just need the end CV to install into the hub to get home, you can bash i to bits with a BFH until it separates. i've done that before for the same reason, to install the outer cv cup into the hub (without the axle attached). Bash *what* to bits? The directions I've seen on the forum involve "Bash it until it separates" - what am I hitting, specifically? could you leave the axle in for the drive home as a last resort? just reinsall the old cracked boot? wrap i in saran wrap and duct tape to keep grease in and dirt out. The inner DOJ got pulled apart. I'm not sure how to put it back together - does it just slide, or is it more complex? I've also degreased most of the outer joint trying to figure out how to get it apart. Plus, without removing the old ball joint, I can't do anything anyway - the threads on the old one are too damaged to take a nut right now. So unless I find a way to get that out (I'm getting a chisel to try with), the axle is a non-issue. Most of the directions include "Put the nut back on, put it in the lower control arm, and whack on the control arm." I don't have a nut that can go on it, so I need a way to get it out without the benefit of the control arm whacking. And my maintenance manuals (plus my spare axle) are all back 350 miles away. The primary goal is to make it drivable so I can get it home. Fixing it "properly" the first time would be nice, but that requires an axle I can't get locally until the middle of next week, which is too late. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 (edited) With the axle out, hold the center shaft in one hand, with the outer cup point down. Hold the BFH in the other hand, and swing down the length of the axle shaft to knock the outer cup off. This will take a few decent hits, then it'll pop off leaving the balls and inner race in the cup. Flip the inner race around to dislodge balls until it pops out, make sure all the balls are out. Save these and get a slingshot when you get home to have some fun. I'd replace the brake hose on that side, and make sure the parking brake cable is OK. To get the balljoint out of the knuckle, pull the pinch bolt completely, and hammer a thin chisel or good screwdriver in the gap. The balljoint should just about fall out. To get the control arm back onto the ball joint, disconnect the swaybar, and use a prybar to haul down on the arm. It really helps to have someone available to either put weight on the bar, or line the ball joint up with the hole. Edited August 9, 2009 by 4x4_Welder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syonyk Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 Ah, excellent. Thanks, I'll try those tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik litchy Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 i drilled through the head of that bolt and safety wired that thing on. i was scared of exactly this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syonyk Posted August 15, 2009 Author Share Posted August 15, 2009 Sorry for the lack of updates... work swamped me. I ended up buying an 02 Outback I found for a good price (needs a clutch), and will head back & fix this when I have time. I ran out of time/energy and found what I've been looking for at a good price (99-02 Outbacks with a manual transmission are TOUGH to find). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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