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danrenfroe2016

Tuning Ea71 with hitachi carb - No timing marks...

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1980 Brat with a 1978ish EA71

 

Ok, I need help, I have found several good things to go by.

 

This weekend I will be changing the plugs and adjusting the valves...

 

hoping to get a little more power as My car runs fine... But I think it is far from optimal as I can barely do 58 MPH...

 

So any tips would be very helpful...

 

MAIN PROBLEM!

 

There are NO timing marks on my car.... Not at all.

 

I just have it timed where it will run.... But It needs more advance in the upper RPMs and Its slow.

 

I am thinking I will just make my own timing Marks on the Front Pully.

 

ALso I read this on a web site:

 

The ignition system on the EA series engine is a good design, however as with all ''good designs'' it too can stand a few enhancements. If you have a 4WD car l recommend getting a distributor from a 2WD car. The 2WD distributor has a different advance curve and provides full advance ''sooner'' than the 4WD version. The difference means better low-end torque. Also bypass the vacuum valve between the distributor and curb. This will assure that the vacuum advance on the distributor always gets a vacuum signal from the carb when you press the accelerator.

 

Bypassing the vacuum between the carb and the Distributor?

 

is this a good idea...

 

Any suggestions are welcome!

 

-Daniel

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Marks are not on the pulley. Its not a chevy lol. The timing marks are on the front of the flywheel/flexplate. There is a timing window in the bellhousing on the passenger side of the motor. If you have a a rubber plug still (most dont anymore) pull it out and rotate the motor to #1 TDC I believe and you will see the marks. Then mark em up and time away! Good luck.

 

As for vacuum advance, that whole thing about the 2wd dis having better advance may or may not be true. I have run both the 4wd and the 2wd dis and have felt no differences to be honest. If your vacuum advance canister on the dis is working then i would leave it as is. If you want to try the direct method i dont think it would hurt. Thats how anyone running a weber (me) is running their advance but i feel no difference in power.

Edited by hatchsub

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Cant find any marks on the Flywheel. Its weird.

 

I was talking with Jason, We are going to get the timing better this Saturday...

 

I am going to test the advance and see if it is working properly.

 

Thanks.

 

-Daniel

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If it hasnt been timed in awhile you might have to clean off some surface rust to see the lines and #s better. Good luck.

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If it hasnt been timed in awhile you might have to clean off some surface rust to see the lines and #s better. Good luck.

 

Ya, I tried to time in three years ago when I bough it, But Never could find anything, I just timed it by ear like we do with the Chevy V8s, Been Fine, runs all the time, But I would really like to Know if I can get some more top end... Just a little maybe...

 

I will try really hard this time... Maybe Your right, I am going to manually find Top Dead Center and then Start scrubbing...

 

-Daniel

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Hell just put a breaker on the crank pulley and rotate the motor over by hand (with the spark plugs out makes it easier). You should be able to see SOMETHING even without cleaning but then again i have no idea how much surface rust is on your flywheel.

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"This weekend I will be changing the plugs and adjusting the valves..."

 

If you do a compression test while the plugs are out...well, just do it before you go looking for more power. :)

 

Doug

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Ya, I think we are going to do that as well. haha May end up need another weekend, as I think that One or both of my Head gaskets leak just a little.

 

Oh also... Do you recommend trying to re torque the heads? Or is it a waste of time and better to just pull the engine and completely Replace the head gaskets??????

 

Thanks.

 

-Daniel

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Ya, I think we are going to do that as well. haha May end up need another weekend, as I think that One or both of my Head gaskets leak just a little.

 

Oh also... Do you recommend trying to re torque the heads? Or is it a waste of time and better to just pull the engine and completely Replace the head gaskets??????

 

Thanks.

 

-Daniel

Dont retorque the heads. You only do that when you replace the gaskets with new ones. If you have a blown headgasket retorquing em wont help. No need to pull the motor to do the gaskets either. You should be able to do it in car but it is easier to do out of the car.

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Dont retorque the heads. You only do that when you replace the gaskets with new ones. If you have a blown headgasket retorquing em wont help. No need to pull the motor to do the gaskets either. You should be able to do it in car but it is easier to do out of the car.

 

 

Cool. This is good info... I think the compression is going to be ok.

 

Ya, the motor looks really easy to pull... Couldn't weight to much either..

 

This is one reason I hope to get the other Cheap Crashed really bad Brat, I want to take apart the motor...

 

-Daniel

Edited by danrenfroe2016
spelling

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Dan.....just stick a wire brush in the timing hole with the engine running. You will find the timing marks. They are lines, (long and short), with the markings "0" "5" "10" for degrees.

 

Todd

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Dan.....just stick a wire brush in the timing hole with the engine running. You will find the timing marks. They are lines, (long and short), with the markings "0" "5" "10" for degrees.

 

Todd

 

 

That's a pretty good Idea. I will try that... Never got to work on it this weekend... Ended up working at a friends 16 acre property All Saturday...

 

-Daniel

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