SUBARU3

Would Bring a Trailer be the best place for this? It's now back in TX.

Rusted hubs from the northeast are about worthless. Especially on older cars. www.car-part.com

Thanks everybody for the input!!!

I assume that this car has all places to swap the entire drivetrain into? I spoke with one person and he said that they invest 25K plus and can sell for 45K plus. (Especially abroad). I am amazed that coupes were so rare in the marketplace.

No squabbles on price either it seems. Since I'm not a swapper, I thought I'd reach out to you all for some feedback.

Everybody that has been interested is mainly wanting to SWAP WRX /RS/22C stuff on to it. The rust free TX body and being a coupe is the interest. I have had 35 people in less than 2 days!

I need to get some advise on the pricing for a 1995 Impreza Coupe L, 1.8, 5 speed, 81K . Somewhat rare I guess. Nice condition overall. Only some clearcoat damage on the top surfaces. This is a Texas car and is rust free...never in salt, or wrecked. BONE STOCK, unmolested in any way. I have the car in PA and used it summers only for the last few years. There are really none of these left it seems that are not rusted out in the northeast. From a driver car perspective, it's great! Well maintained. BUT the "value" in this car is that it's a "coupe", it's RUST FREE and it's in PA. Swappers are beating the door down with it advertised for $5500. Some say it's priced to low. People are NOT looking at this car for what it IS, but for what it could become. What should fair pricing be for this?

I have tried 2 of the international wholesalers like that. Came back as not available. They all show 6 available. I think they capture that data from Subaru someplace, but when they go to order, they are not available and I get a refund. I guess I need to find some old junkyard engines and pull the rockers. But it appears that these are not 'critical' to the engine.

Well I have been unable to locate these small rocker springs ANYWHERE. Discontinued. Valve Spring #13256AA030 I guess those with 2.2s will have to run without them! They break in half over time it seems and they end up in he oil pan.

Just for clarification.....Early Outback wagon rear struts will fit a 1995 Legacy sedan? (Increasing height about 2") I've heard that Forester rear struts (98-2000) may be a better option? Thanks guys!

I am trying to figure out how to adjust the initial RPMs at startup. My 95 EJ22 106K starts easily, but when it's cold it revs too high initially for a second or 2. It then settles quickly to the normal cold RPM. In my opinion for a cold/oil less start, that is just causing wear. I understand the RPMs will be higher when cold, BUT the "initial REV" is not what I want. I have 3 other EJ cars and none of them do that. (I'm talking about COLD starts with temps less than say 35 degrees. Car is fine in the summer). Thoughts? Thanks Todd

Drilling down on this horrible defect in 90s and early 2000 generation of Subys. Being a TX guy, I never have had an issue with rust, but now seeing some of these northern cars in TX and also ALWAYS seeing this typical rust when I go back to PA. Yesterday, I saw a BEAUTIFUL 99 Impreza on a sales lot in TEXAS. I stopped to take a peak and of course I saw the tell tail rear quarter rust, (not bad), but I felt into the outboard, lower side of the rear shock tower and it was COMPLETELY GONE! Now the drivers side was intact amazingly! (Northern car transplant). NEARLY every (Non southern car I see, has this typical rust failure). We know that these cars have a weak spot, where when designing the car, there was a need to fill in an area in the shock tower that was open and non structural. This ALWAYS seems to rust out, (thinner metal) and allows water, dirt, salt and whatever into the rear quarters, rockers and even the car floors. It's what starts ALL rust and it extremely destructive to this generation of Subarus. Of course back when these cars were new, owners were not armed with the knowledge of the weak spot, (in my opinion, these cars should have been recalled to reinforce this shock tower area). SO, now we know that this area is weak and subjective to premature failure when salt presents. With full knowledge of this, how can this flaw be corrected?? Yes, you can wash the shock tower out frequently, spray things like undercoating, fluid film and what not, but what would be a VERY EFFECTIVE fix to prevent this? Let's say you are starting with a perfectly rust free body, or even a BRAND NEW 95 IMPREZA that was stored in bubble wrap in a dealership! LOL Rhino liner comes to mind. Fabricating some kind of rear wheel well liner to keep crap OUT of the shock tower? I know there are pros and cons to each idea, but I'm looking for the one with No cons! I know that only in Texas, CA and the southwest are you able to keep a car literally forever, but there has to be a way to manage this defect in manufacturing for cars susceptible up north. Subaru fixed this issue in 2005 with rear liners and getting rid of the classic rear shock towers. I now have 2 1995 rust free Imprezas in PA. They are not daily drivers, as I don't live there full time. Only 1 is driven when there is ANY potential of salt on the roads and that is closely watched. I "fluid filmed" the areas well last week. I am determined to not have these cars suffer from this defect. Thoughts?

473k!!!! WOW. Always good to have spare electronics if you plan on keeping a car long term.

Hey there...sorry I missed your post. I replaced the TCU and it corrected everything. I see that is that is what you are doing in your other post. Todd

1995 Legacy sedan AWD LS Is there a difference in the rear brake disk calipers, (besides left and right) between a sedan and a wagon/outback? I'm thinking the bare caliper is the same and its just the mounting bracket that differs. Finding conflicting information...whets new...:) Thanks Todd

Yep...you guys are right!! Time to put the 155 80R13" on this car from my 78 wagon!

It could also be just the optics on this car, as like was said, the opening on the front wheel well is so much larger.

Wow...2" might be a lot!

No rust anywhere on this car. Texas ...no salt and DRY!

I appreciate your feedback...I would be pissed if I spend the time and money and it looked the same! Just weird, as I don't remember it looking low, but then again, I never looked that close. So if I wanted a "visual" height increase, would Outback springs/struts fit? (Or would that be too high and look weird)?

Are the Outback wagon springs able to be used on the AWD sedans? Will that add some height?

I thought that the lowered rear posture was most-likely from worn springs and or struts. This is strictly a road car, but a firmer rear might not hurt. This is a TX car, so no rust and it has only 106K on it. I guess I'm hearing that I should just renew the struts with KYB, retain the old springs and maybe redo the soft parts of the assembly. If it's that easy to compress the rears, I can do that I guess.

OK...I looked at Primitive racing and sadly, I cannot justify the pricing for these. Over $300 for springs alone, but struts and other assembly components pushes this to over $1000 for just the rears. This is a great car and a daily driver, but the car alone is worth only a few thousand, even with the condition and low mileage. What are the other options for a "good quality", (Not junk) complete strut assembly that I can have delivered ready to install? I want to simple level the car. Car has 106K on it. Thanks!