SUBARU3

Thanks guys! I think Subaru always did best with their basic engines 4 cyl/non turbo...EA71/81 EA82 EJ18/EJ22 (90s) and some versions and years of the 2.5s.

Starting to look at some of Subaru's 6's. Any thoughts on reliability, repair costs, typical failures? 2002 3.0 liter? 59K 2008 and newer ? Thanks for your feedback! Todd

After looking at a 2005 Outback, it appears that the inner liner on the rear completely protects the shock tower. That shock tower vulnerability on earlier models causes many an early death!

Also looks like you will need to cut some damage out and replace some strips of metal.

YES...get that foam out of there! Clean, sand and treat. Then primer and paint/multiple coats. Use butyl tape on that seam to seal those new fenders I'm going to sell you!!

The 90s Legacy and Imprezas had a fill panel that was on the exterior side of the shock tower. (Non structural) It rusted out faster than anything else, letting water in and rotting the quarter panel. But still not sure how much a liner can protect the shock tower. It's just sad to see this damage on nearly every NORTHERN Suby, yet the southern ones are perfect. (Like mine)

Could someone tell me what year and models did Subaru start adding rear wheel well liners? 2005? It seems that the cars with these liners seem to survive more winters, "rust free" vs earlier models that suffered rear shock tower rust. Are the inner liners making that much difference? Todd

Love my Lego 1995 LS. 105K It's a keeper!

I will have to look at the oil process. Sadly, I have to use a car in the winter. I will bubble wrap the others in winter! LOL

Currently, the car is rust free and solid. They are Texas cars and have not had winters. My plan was to get this coating prior to any rust starting. I'm wanting something better than stock undercoating.

My big issue is how do I get the car to the LineX shop with the rear struts out? They have to be out to coat the interior shock tower effectively...at least I think so.

I'm beginning too think about this more. I hate to unload, but the car is not worth putting in that kind of money for a probable future failure. If the car is that fragile....hmm. I know the top end of this engine, turbo and some other things, has about 7K dumped into it already. I'm accustomed to SUBARU reliability, like the non-interference 2.2 liters EJ22! Just delete the tubo with an engine transplant? This car was kinda "accidentally" purchased, (long story), but I'm not liking the feeling I'm getting about future costs. Maybe I should sell this nice car now, while it's running good and can get some reasonable cash out of it?? What do you think of the 6 cylinders in the last few years they offered them on the Outbacks?

The downpipe is original, but it may have been removed and the CAT deleted at some point before I bought the car. I am going to check the up pipe for a CAT....I will delete that if it's there. I really like the car alot. GD can you elaborate more on the reroute of the oil feed change? Any of the other flaws that need addressed ASAP? This car has a new turbo and is running good. Thanks!! Todd

I'm really curious about the down pipe on my turbo XT wagon. I am in the middle of replacing the exhaust and I noticed that the downpipe, (right out from the turbo), did not have a catalyst in it. It's just a straight pipe through. The "replacement" downpipe HAS a catalyst in in. I cannot see where there was ever a catalyst inside my original pipe. Is the downpipe supposed to be a catalyst? I know that there is a cat further back in the system. Any thoughts? Thanks!! Todd

Following

You are the best!!! Thank you!

Would anyone know the proper torque for the rear support braces (2 bolts each) (left and right) on a 2005 Outback? These are the 2 curved bars left and right at the rear...(pic) One side has a VERY long bolt and the other side a shorter one. Thanks!

Both versions of the EA71 can be used. You just have to switch out the flywheel cover if you use a newer version in the older cars. Easy

You are the best Rampage!!! Thanks!!!

Trying to figure out where the "chime" "ding" noise from ignition key originate from? The instrument cluster? 95 Impreza

Yea.... I called the local Line-X an they said $50 per wheel well. That stuff goes on hot and drys like a rock.... should preserve the car. Oh the days before rear well liners.

I will be relocating at some point back to PA, (salt belt) and one one my cars will be used in the winter. All others will be placed in zip lock bags in the winter!!! LOL Anyway, car is a 95 Impreza AWD NO RUST...Texas car. I know that the rear shock towers have a small added piece of metal that is not structural that rusts on on these era Legacies and Imprezas. Then water gets in and rots the rear quarter. I have thought that LineX/Rhino coating (Truck bed professional application), the shock tower would seal that up very nicely. Off course take the strut out to do this. That stuff is tough and makes a great seal. Thoughts?? Thanks, Todd

I cannot believe what this was! The screw that held/holds the ignition switch into the key lock assembly was gone. SO...when the key was turned to start, the switch moved in the casing just enough that no contact was made. One screw and fixed. Man...that was easy! But now I know what to do if problems occur in the future! Thanks Guys! Todd

I guess I will be investigating the switch! I will report back. Weather went to crap here today though. Texas weather....blink and it changes!

I am thinking that the ignition switch is OK, as when it's turned to start, the radio and other items cut out as expected. Do ignition switches fail without any warning? I know I'm getting ZERO power to the solenoid when the key is turned to start. Not low volts...zero volts. It will not start in Park, or Neural. Once again, I can turn the key to on and run a wire to the solenoid from the battery and start the car. No starter, battery , or cable issues.