I have read a lot of the old threads on getting the axles to pop off the dif. A few months back I wanted to put my locked rear end in place but couldn't get the axles off of the stubs... I ran out of time and ended up bolting everything back in place and re-hanging the same dif.

 

I had thought after reading up on it, that I may not have had it dropped as far down as I could have and that might have limited my options a bit...

 

well yesterday I tried again and let me just say that getting the pins out is no problem with a pin die on a rivet gun... you can tap them out pretty easily - I have air tools. I used a punch die, 'c' die and an 'elephants foot' to work around the cup and after about 45 minutes of swearing and rolling in my gravel I MAY have gotten one to move about 1/64th of an inch

 

but the damn rust on the splines killed me again, I had it all a mile in the air and I'm thinking of taking it to my favorite shop and having them get those miserable splined rat &^%*$%^% off and switch it for me

 

why even have the retainer pins at all, seems to me those jerks aren't going anywhere :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

 

-btw- I really had to fight the urge to cut my axles in half and just replace the damn things

I suggest for everyone to use anti-sieze when re-inserting axles, I always generously antisieze the splines-on both ends, the hub end and the differential end.

Carefully remove the clamp on the inner CV boot.

 

Remove the retainer clip from the inner cup

 

slide the outer cup off the splines, then slide the axle and joint out of the inner cup.

 

This leaves you just the inner cups attached to your diff, now you can remove it from the car to work further.

 

Clean out the inside of the cup, and use a chisel punch to remove the sheetmetal plate at the bottom of the stuck cup. You don't have to completely remove it just enough so you can see the bolt head underneath and get a socket on it.

 

Then use an E10 1/4 drive deep socket to unbolt the stub from the diff. (sometimes a good six pointed 9mm or 10mm socket will work, but the correct E10 socket is better)

 

Once unbolted, the stub will come right out of the diff. Now you can take the stub and stuck cup to a machine shop and have them press off the cups.

If you want to sacrifice those axles, I have a set on a donor car that I can get to you for cheaper than the shop will charge you.

 

Let me know and I can pull them for you.

If you want to sacrifice those axles, I have a set on a donor car that I can get to you for cheaper than the shop will charge you.

 

Let me know and I can pull them for you.

 

He would also need new stubs, unless his welded diff has them in it already.

 

And actually, once removed from the diff....he might be able to get them out with that air hammer:banana:

I suggest for everyone to use anti-sieze when re-inserting axles, I always generously antisieze the splines-on both ends, the hub end and the differential end.

 

 

I anti-seize damn near everything, these pricks haven't been off the car since it left Fuji #2 in 1989

Carefully remove the clamp on the inner CV boot.

 

Remove the retainer clip from the inner cup

 

slide the outer cup off the splines, then slide the axle and joint out of the inner cup.

 

This leaves you just the inner cups attached to your diff, now you can remove it from the car to work further.

 

Clean out the inside of the cup, and use a chisel punch to remove the sheetmetal plate at the bottom of the stuck cup. You don't have to completely remove it just enough so you can see the bolt head underneath and get a socket on it.

 

Then use an E10 1/4 drive deep socket to unbolt the stub from the diff. (sometimes a good six pointed 9mm or 10mm socket will work, but the correct E10 socket is better)

 

Once unbolted, the stub will come right out of the diff. Now you can take the stub and stuck cup to a machine shop and have them press off the cups.

 

excellent, thank you for the play by play, I will do this

If you want to sacrifice those axles, I have a set on a donor car that I can get to you for cheaper than the shop will charge you.

 

Let me know and I can pull them for you.

 

If I need to, I will shoot you a PM if the above fails (and I lose my temper )

He would also need new stubs, unless his welded diff has them in it already.

 

And actually, once removed from the diff....he might be able to get them out with that air hammer:banana:

 

yes the other dif has the stubs, since I didn't care about that car's axles I cut one, beat the dif to the newly open side and then beat the beejeezuz out of the axle piece left on the stub until it popped off

 

actually, I have 3 rivet guns (3x 4x and a 27x), and no air hammers