98sub2500leg Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 After finally finishing the HG job, test drove the car, first ran great with no check engine light, then I noticed it came on. Car starts normal at around 1200RPM, then drops to 800RPM after a min. or two as it always had before, idle does not fluctuate(is solid), runs and drives awesome otherwise. Seems like it runs hotter than it used to, all fluids are at normal levels. I have checked everything a dozen time for connectivity. Codes read P0507 and P0106. Before I pulled the engine 3rd time last week(when I had the clutch disc in backwards). I got a P0106, right as it was being read on the display, I noticed the small vacuum tube was off, reconnected & the engine light went off. Now if I push on that hose the engine idle goes up, but the engine light doesn't go out. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Look up the codes and find out what they are. A google search or search here would tell you (us). As for overheating, these motors are notorious for needing to be properly bled when you fill the radiators back up again. If you didn't properly bleed it then that is your problem. Search for bleeding or "burp" / "burping" on here for how to properly do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 (edited) Dealing with the P0106 code myself. Sounds like you probably have a loose vacuum line somewhere. Small air leaks, such as what would be caused by removing the hose for the FPR or MAP sensor, will increase idle speed slightly. The IAC can account for that to an extent. But if another leak is introduced to the system, or there is a larger leak, it will being to bring idle speed back down because the idle mixture is too lean, and the IAC isn't able to cover it up. Which is probably why you have the 507 code. Double double check your lines. Make sure the MAP, FPR, EGR (if you have it) and Evap solenoid lines are plugged in in the correct places and are not split at the ends. You may even want to just go to the store and get a few feet of 1/8" hose and start replacing. One of my favorite web sites. They even have manufacturer specific codes. http://www.equus.com/support/obd2_definitions.php Edited September 13, 2009 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxpert Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 <<Seems like it runs hotter than it used to, all fluids are at normal levels.>> how did you replace the coolant you lost during the HG job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sub2500leg Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 Coolant fill: Top rad hose removed from upper cross tube prefill until top rad. hose is full; Remove top plastic air lock screw from passenger side rad. side. Fill radiator, burp-refill, start until warm,cool down, open refill,repeat over & over until full. Did this over the course of about 6 hours, its full. Exhaust seems normal (no coolant smell anymore). The temp gauge is right at normal, the car hasn't run for several months and it was a pretty warm day, it may have just seemed like the inside of the engine was running warmer than normal with the hood open and the car at idle after driving it on the freeway and some crazy test driving. I don't think this is the problem. Both error codes have a common diagnostic of vacuum leak. The P0106 shows map/maf. The 0506 shows idle control rpm higher than expected. Fairtax, did you find your problem yet for your P0106? I saw your previous post from the other day? It may be a leak caused by the same vacuum hose in the same sensor as I had before last week when the small hose was off. After getting the P0106 code I noticed it was off then reconnected it. The error code went away as well as the check eng. light. I will go get some new hose for that as it is a press fit type and seems it has lost it's durometer and is too loose for the press on metallic fitting. I saw some older info (thread/posts) which shows it could be a hose reversed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Replacing any vacuum hose that doesn't fit snugly is a good starting point. The emissions label attached to the underside of the hood should show proper vacuum hose connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 (edited) I've found that the P0106 is a two trip fault. Meaning that if there is a fault with the MAP values it has to show up on two separate ignition cycles before it will light the CEL. Basically if the hose is disconnected for two ignition cycles it stores a pending code for the first occurrence, and will illuminate the CEL on the second. After the hose is reconnected and the fault is no longer detected the CEL is turned off with the next ignition cycle, and the codes will be stored in the history. So if it hasn't come back yet, then it probably isn't going to. The high idle may have been caused by the loose hose. Just make sure the hoses are tight, if it doesn't come back then I'd assume its fixed. I've not found the cause of the code on my car yet. I removed the check valve that was in line with the switching solenoid, even though there is supposed to be a filter there. But it hasn't returned since the last reset, so I don't know if that fixed it or what. Edited September 13, 2009 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sub2500leg Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 I've found that the P0106 is a two trip fault. Meaning that if there is a fault with the MAP values it has to show up on two separate ignition cycles before it will light the CEL. Basically if the hose is disconnected for two ignition cycles it stores a pending code for the first occurrence, and will illuminate the CEL on the second. After the hose is reconnected and the fault is no longer detected the CEL is turned off with the next ignition cycle, and the codes will be stored in the history. So if it hasn't come back yet, then it probably isn't going to. The high idle may have been caused by the loose hose. Just make sure the hoses are tight, if it doesn't come back then I'd assume its fixed. I've not found the cause of the code on my car yet. I removed the check valve that was in line with the switching solenoid, even though there is supposed to be a filter there. But it hasn't returned since the last reset, so I don't know if that fixed it or what. Just got back from test driving it all day. Stopped off this morning and bought several lengths of new hose (hadn't installed them yet), after the car clocked about somewhere over the 100 mile point the check engine light went off. I then remembered when I bought the car new, after about 5000 miles the check engine light came on. I took it to the dealer. They said it usually comes on from not building enough pressure in the fuel line. He also said if I had not brought it in that it would have cleared on it's own after so many miles (he didn't say how many miles). The high idle explains it because when I reinstalled the throttle control cables, I hadn't adjusted the nuts yet for idle. It started out about 1200 or 1300rpm, then got the check engine light then lowered the idle to 800RPM, it seems to have reset itself at some point during the test drive today. The car drove as good as it ever did before. The engine temp. was also very normal, not sure why it was giving off extra heat yesterday but it's good now. Thanks for the good info and update fairtax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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