Universeman Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 (edited) Thanks, it was pure luck finding it too, I wasent even looking for a Brat when my wife stumbled across the add for it and I was the first to call about it and now I'm a Subi convert, love it! Had a kid offer me $500 for it yesterday, keep dreaming. Oh and thanks for all the info guys! Edited October 22, 2009 by Universeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted October 22, 2009 Author Share Posted October 22, 2009 Ok I found a EA82 (I'm fairly positive) intake manifold, the donor engine is in the back of a Brat at the junkyard (I'll take pictures of the brat tomorrow in case anyone is interested) Quick question, there is a hard coolent line on the right side of the donor intake manifold which is very stuck, can I just cut the line and use the one off of my current manifold (in the picture below) or are they specific to the manifold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 I beleive they are specific to the manifold. It should be a 19mm. A flare-nut wrench would be helpful. Take a small propane torch and heat up the area around the threads. Alternatively, that's the EGR line not the coolant line - you could just eliminate the EGR and then plug the hole in the head. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 Sounds good to me, I'll just plug the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 Is this a EA81 manifold? I think that it is because the adaptor that came with my kit looks like it will fit. It sure cleaned up nice at any rate Here's the Brat, it has the carter/weber carb setup Heres where the manifold came from, this is not this brats engine, it had a hitachi carb fortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Yes - that's an EA81 manifold. Should work just fine. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 Thanks again GD, I am however concerned about the air cleaner set up that Redline sent with the kit, the clips seem flimsey and the sides of the filter bow in and are not flush with the sides of the filter housing. Should I rais the BS flag with Redline, it has already been indicated that I could have gotten this same setup for less. At any rate I hope the pictures I'm posting are helpfull to someone who might also be considering this mod as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 What will really blow your mind is that the filter that comes with the Redline kit is too tall - it hits the underside of the hood on EA81's without a body lift. You'll want to invest in the 1-3/4" filter instead of the 3" that you have. The clips are still the same though. On some of them you can gently lift the base of the filter and slip the edge of the clip between the base and the carb. Easier if you have installed the gasket that goes inbetween. For the ones that don't want to slip under you can grind on the bottom edge if you want. You could just leave them sticking out a bit as well - they don't ever come off that I've experienced but maybe if you were bouncing around off-road a lot. I always try to tuck mine under or grind them. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 Thanks for the heads up on the clearence issue GD, I'm definatly going to talk to Redline about that, especially considering that the kit is supposed to be specific for my brat! Looking at it it did seem a little tall to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 Ok I'm just about ready to dive into the installation, I have a couple of questions first. For the fuel return line as there's no provision for it on the Weber I assume that I'll just cap it off, wheres the best place to do this? Also what's the best thing to do with the EGR stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 You can use the return if you get the fuel barb from an EA81 Hitachi. It threads right on to the Weber. You can also just cap the return line. Seems to work the same either way. Don't cap the fuel tank vent line - just leave it open to atmosphere after you remove the charcoal canistor. The EGR won't do you any good if you are blocking the port on the head (the tube you cut) so just don't hook it up. Without a vacuum signal the EGR valve will do nothing. Your carb should have a brass screw already blocking the EGR vacuum supply so just leave it be. While you are blocking ports, you will also want to remove the Air Suction Valve(s) and block the ports under each head. There is a spacer between the head and the exhaust header that has a large threaded port with about a 19mm tube comming out of it. Block those and remove the associated valves and tubes. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 Thanks again GD, as soon as the engine cools off I'm installing I'll let yall know how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobaru Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Universeman I just got done puttin the weber on my 82 wagon............ All I can say is sweet Youre brat has a carter weber as mine did. install went sweet I used the ea82 manifold .........only problem I had was the accelorater cable was to short 27 inches vs 36 inches I got stupid and bought the replacment cable at napa did not fit I had to dremal down the barrel ends and the firewall clip now it works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Got her put back together and she's running real nice except for the throttle cable issue (will be in tomorrow morning) a couple of other minor issues and one major issue. The issue here is that there is a coolant leak at the gasket where the adaptor plate bolts to the intake manifold, has anyone else delt with this I was just going to get some coolent system RTV and stick that on there but I want it to be a solid/permanant solution so if theres a better way I'm all ears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Many folks end up blocking the passage. A bit of window screening and some JB weld seems to do the trick well. I've never had to block one. Most recently I've been installing the adaptor plate's with no gasket - I use Loctite 515/518 flange sealant and I use 242 on the bolts. The key is to get the mating surfaces COMPLETELY clean. I use a brown 3M pad in a die-grinder to polish the manifold mating surface down to bare aluminium. Been working well for me anyway. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 (edited) Mission accomplished, thanks for all the advice GD and everyone else! Man what a difference that carb made in exceleration she's so zippy now, a real blast to drive! I was looking at how the adaptor plate and intake manifold was a little mismatched as well as being mismatched to the Weber carb so I went to work with a half round file with excelant results i also got some of that 2 part epoxy putty and filled in the collant passage which completly fixed the leak issue. Also by sealing up the coolant passage to the old carb I was able to use the supplied gasket insted of the Loctite gasket maker as GD had suggested. Here's the adaptor plate and the intake manifold With the exception of the adaptor plate I was not particularly impressed with the Redline kit because they diden't give any indication on their web page that the "Brat kit" was incompatable with the Carter/Webber carb intake manifold, although it does have a note that the kit is for models with the hitachi carb so be sure to read the fine print. Also the 2 5/8" tall air cleaner set up that comes with the kit hits the hood and needs to be replaced with a 1 3/4 air cleaner, which I got for $28 shipped from http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/default.asp In the end these were minor issues but I'm a lot smarter now and I very glad that I took this project on, it was a learning experence and I get to have the satisfaction of having done it my self, with your help, thanks for all the advice it was invaluable to my success and I hope that this post helps someone else who migh be thinking about doing this excelant mod. Edited November 12, 2009 by Universeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 Here's the final setup with the 1.75" EMPI air cleaner assembly which is way better quality than the aircleaner from Redline. The Weber has made a huge difference in the drivability of the Brat and it has way more power at highway speeds, going 75-80 mph is no problem now, if only I had a 5 speed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 Wow beautiful brat!!! When the carb comes unscrew the front idle jet (the big brass screw on the front of the carb right by the choke housing). Mine came loaded with a 55 idle jet but it would hesitate on the transition from idle to throttle. I upped it to a 60 and it idles smoother and has no hessitation whatsoever. If you have a 55 you can try running it with that and see how i goes but this was the solution for me. Thanks hatch, what do you mean by unscrewing the front idle jet? Is that in order to install the 60 or do you mean simply remove it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Yeah - he means unscrew it to check/change the jet. Nice job in the install. Your PCV is wrong though - there should only be a 5/8" line from the air cleaner to the passenger side valve cover. The line from the driver's side should go to the "F" fitting and then the 1/4" line goes to the air filter and the other 5/8" line goes to the PCV valve. The 1/4" line is a vacuum breaker that allows it to not suck oil into the filter but still retain a positivle flow from passenger valve cover, through the crankcase, then out the driver's side cover. There won't be any positive flow the way you currently have it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 Here ya go GD this should clear up how I hooked the valve cover breathers and the PCV into the air cleaner. One other question for you, the electric choke isent working, is there a temp sensor I need to hook up for it to work? I cut the harness off of the old carb and plugged it in but nada Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 You still need BOTH the 1/4" line and the 5/8" line from the passenger side head going to the air filter. The way you have it there, fresh air is only supplied to the system via the single small line of the "F" fitting. You need a positive flow, and that requires that one side have more air availible than the other. Like this: Here I used a fitting and hose from another earlier model of Subaru, but the effect is the same. The passenger side head gets full airflow via the 5/8" line. The 1/4" ID line is only a vacuum breaker to prevent too much suction from pulling oil out of the driver's side valve cover. In other words it allows positive flow, but regulates it with a 1/4" ID orifice GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 For the choke, just get out your DMM, and find which one of the terminals going to the old carb has 12v. You might have inadvertantly grounded the wire while working on it and blew the fuse too. The electric choke should work fine from the 12v supply to the carter/weber's electric choke. That's how I've always hooked them up. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universeman Posted March 1, 2010 Author Share Posted March 1, 2010 Just wanted to post a follow up to this project, I can't beleive that its been 4 months already. Everything is still running great and I got the choke figured out so now it runs just fine in the morning even down in the teens. I'm avraging around 20mpg but thats ok I love it when the two barrel kicks in and it just takes off like a scalded cat so I'm not too worried about the poor milage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 That mileage is pretty low unless the car is lifted? Should be somewhere around 27-30 on a stock height Brat with EA81. But glad you like it! GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Try running it for a while with the ignition timing set at 10* instead of 8*. 2 of the engines I've Webered liked that. And I consistantly got 27-29 MPG per tank. Just be mindfull of spark knock if you try it. If you get any, back timing off a tad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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