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W series Toyota trans adaptors


bill hincher
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i wanna do dirty things to that bellhousing.dirty , dirty things.like this.......... davecolegettinsomevegas2reno.jpg

 

mid engine equal length driveshafts thats soooooooooooooooooooo kwuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuul

 

well, this is the week for it, I should have had it done before this, I just let too many things distract me

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mine is front engine, but like someone that i put off time and time again told me.....move that engine back.i just did not think i could do it and make it fit .now, as i look at my front links , and oil pan....

 

they obviously were right.damnit.and if they read this. they will revel in it i am sure.

 

anyways.it wil have fairly non equal length driveshafts.the t-case is mounted almost in the middle, but the front suspension link is almost a full 1/3rd longer than the back to surpass the oil pan.BUT.....

 

super close to it though........cheers, b

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This has to bolt on the existing shifter hole on the trans, be no more then 1.25 inch high and give and exact 'feel' to the driver in both motion and distance of motion

 

Those of us interested in using this for 4WD use in lifted rigs won't have the same clearance issues. We could do perhaps with a simpler, hopefully easier to produce setup. Would 2 or 3 inches make it easier?

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Those of us interested in using this for 4WD use in lifted rigs won't have the same clearance issues. We could do perhaps with a simpler, hopefully easier to produce setup. Would 2 or 3 inches make it easier?

 

I will document the shifter as I go, there are many options at hand, that in itself is a problem because it tends to lead to distraction, there are two idea's in the mix.

first of all I build the narrow block 4G63 Mitsubishi turbo engine adapter to the R 154 Toyota tras suitable for the engine swap in the Starion Conquest, this application requires the low profile of the shifter and a short swing ' joy stick' style shifter handle

second is the longer shift handle required for a truck style shifter that comes stock on the original Toyota transmission, with a newly relocated mounting perch moved to the drivers convenience

either way, the shifter must be located so the driver takes its location and its function for granted, just like everybody that ever drove a car takes the brakes for granted, they work every time and we think nothing of it

There is nothing worse than working your rump roast off getting the transmission you want mounted in the car you want and having the shifter handle either under the dash or behind the front seats

Its like kissing your sister

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I dont know what I did here >;o(

 

This is the final sand, the housing on the left is built off of the original pattern on the right, but it is 1% smaller because of shrink when casted, many details were added and removed, all the demensions were checked and rechecked, now it goes into final casting

 

subtoyadaptor150.jpgsubtoyadaptor151.jpg

 

the next step is to machine them out when I get them back

subtoyadaptor152.jpgsubtoyadaptor153.jpg

Edited by bill hincher
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I need your adress mellow, I will be getting the first housing into your hands next week

 

I think the little school girl in me just screamed her little head off as if she just saw her favorite rock star. :clap::clap::clap:

 

i sent you a regular old email with my address.

 

thanks again Bill

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yeah i got pay pal

 

and i got a bad rash too, ( comes back on me about every 30 days, the free clinic never saw anything like it) but I dont go 'on' about it

 

but whats that got to do with bellhousings?

 

It was 'mechanic humor' Manstaru, I was being funny, I just use my E mail account, I dont know anything about pay pal numbers you speak of

 

Mellow is invested heavily into this project, out of respect for that, I wanted to include his input on the project, there may be adjustments I am not aware of

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It was 'mechanic humor' Manstaru, I was being funny, I just use my E mail account, I dont know anything about pay pal numbers you speak of

 

Mellow is invested heavily into this project, out of respect for that, I wanted to include his input on the project, there may be adjustments I am not aware of

 

wow, me part of the r and d, i feel honored.

 

i swear monstaru i wont do like awesome poses with the bell housing just to rub it in. like lounging in some lawn chairs having a drink, or going bike riding and laughing carelessly.

 

lol, ok i'm making myself laugh with the thoughts of doing that with a bell housing, so i may just do it now. :lol:

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I dont have an exact number for the unit, I keep my stuff in the $300.00 range, the only extra cost on this is the throw out bearing and collar I gotta build, so thats gonna add $100.00 on the unit , Mellow sent me the bellhousing I cut up, and a flywheel and a clutch with the clutch fork and pivot ball, so its only fair that I let him test this thing out

 

 

E mail me at japaneseauto1978@yahoo.com Monstaru and I will get the next unit out to you

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I keep trying to mount the remote shifter as low as possible on top of the trans, I dont want as little obstruction as possible

 

remoteshifter38.jpgremoteshifter41.jpg

 

 

I built a flange to mount the bridges accross and locate the new shifter rod, I keep moving peices back and forth, up and down trying to seek the lowest level and still maintain mechanical leverage

remoteshifter42.jpgremoteshifter43.jpg

 

 

originaly I wanted to place a window here to see the pin go in place but I dont know if it would be an advantage to anyone

remoteshifter44.jpgremoteshifter45.jpg

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that's down right hot :slobber::slobber:

 

does it bother anyone that car parts can be almost as appealing as looking as women?

 

nah me either. :grin:

 

would they be big beautiful,full figured wemen? with oral fixations and a very slow learning curve? maybe owned a liquor store?

could you be a litle more specific?

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In the 4 bolt engine on the left the lower starter bolt is not in the block, in the 8 bolt engine on the right, the starter bolt goes all the way through, how should I arrainge the bellhousing to accept either set up? use a stud mounted in the housing? or thread the hole and allow the owner to drill it out if necessary?

 

subtoyadaptor155.JPGsubtoyadaptor156.JPG

well here goes nothin, one full years work >;o) all good things for a man starts with a hole

they didnt get a clean edge on the facing, I had to cut this one too far, I need the adjust the pattern a bit thicker on the front facing

subtoyadaptor157.JPGsubtoyadaptor158.JPG

I didnt have enough time to surface the trans side yet,I just mocked up the trans facing, I was just checking how much I could take off

subtoyadaptor159.JPGsubtoyadaptor160.JPG

I was VERY happy with my locaters, the bolts fit in the proper place in each mounting, it may use one more shrink to get a little more definition

subtoyadaptor161.JPGsubtoyadaptor162.JPG

 

subtoyadaptor163.JPGsubtoyadaptor164.JPG

 

subtoyadaptor165.JPGsubtoyadaptor166.JPG

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this is how it is with the 4 bolt tranny

 

IMG_20110225_191242.jpg

 

what i have done when i used a 8 bolt trans on a 4 bolt motor was just tapped and heli coiled that hole and put the stud there.

 

i also have seen people just not run a lower bolt either. i know someone that did that for years. not how i like to fix problems, but it worked.

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In the 4 bolt engine on the left the lower starter bolt is not in the block, in the 8 bolt engine on the right, the starter bolt goes all the way through, how should I arrainge the bellhousing to accept either set up? use a stud mounted in the housing? or thread the hole and allow the owner to drill it out if necessary?

 

i guess i should have read your whole post first :grin:

 

I would go with the threaded hole. These studs litter the junk yards, and even if you didn't run that bolt on an 8 bolt it's not the end of the world. but IF someone felt they needed to run it they could drill out the threads and put a bolt in there.

 

i have never found a difference between a 4 bolt and an 8 bolt starter in the way that they bolt on, so it would work for either with the stud there.

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