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set up the timing belt correctly but still back fires wont start
#51
Posted 30 December 2010 - 01:04 PM
Make sure to check for either steam out the tailpipe, milkshake in the oil, or bubles in the radiator.
If you have coolant in the oil, and it hasnt mixed, you would get coolant to come out if you drained the oil, since the oil floatson top.
You mightbe able to get by with a can of block sealer, at least in the case of bubbles in the radiator or steam out the tailpipe.
If you have milkshake, its time to pull the heads.
But don't rule out bad intake gaskets, as this will create a gross vacuum leak, or introduce coolant into the intake and therefore lose it out the tailpipe, and will simulate a blown HG by its symptoms, except that there will be no effect on the compression.
#52
Posted 30 December 2010 - 01:15 PM
could be a air pocket in the rad , or plugged up radiator ..
will dig into some more when the weather is better i am being hammered by snow storm
#53
Posted 30 December 2010 - 01:23 PM
1. burp all the air out and add coolant. Use a new thermostat
2. look for bubbles in radiator after burping
3. compression check to verify low compression
4 if no, you should be good with one more burp. if yes, try a can of block sealer(using clean water to apply, after flushing out all coolant, and follow the directions on the bottle
if that doesn't do it, then prepare to pull the heads.
#54
Posted 30 December 2010 - 01:33 PM
my pic is not that great, taken from my phone... wish i could do better
Attached Files
Edited by soobies, 30 December 2010 - 01:39 PM.
#55
Posted 30 December 2010 - 01:46 PM
#56
Posted 30 December 2010 - 01:53 PM
at least i am mechinally inclined and i am pretty much on track getting it fixed
#57
Posted 30 December 2010 - 01:53 PM
#58
Posted 30 December 2010 - 01:55 PM
You can grab one at a Junk Yard, along with its Cover.
#59
Posted 30 December 2010 - 02:00 PM
possibly pull off all the parts out of there just in case like fi throttle body , and some misc stuff
other than that it runs good above 1500 rpm but falls on its face if i hammer it so has to be a air leak somewhere or something is off somewhere
#60
Posted 30 December 2010 - 02:01 PM

Around all Empty area goes a Fan Cover for the Missing Fan.
#61
Posted 30 December 2010 - 02:03 PM
Here, a More easy-to-Look View:
Around all Empty area goes a Fan Cover for the Missing Fan.
gotcha.. im heading to the junk yard to find one that is probably why i am overheating
#62
Posted 30 December 2010 - 02:04 PM
...possibly pull off all the parts out of there just in case like fi throttle body , and some misc stuff ...
That's Good Idea.
To address a Vacuum Leak, just Spray Carb Cleaner around and see if the Idle increases / Decreases.
But first I Kindly Suggest you to put the Missing fan there to Avoid dangerous Overheating.
Kind Regards.
#63
Posted 30 December 2010 - 02:07 PM
trouble shoot the engine
#64
Posted 30 December 2010 - 02:10 PM
The good news is that without that fan there (and probably without A/C) you can do a pretty quick check if the radiator is plugged. These radiators typically plug in horizontal bands across the radiator, so when it is warm (t-stat is open) you can run your palm across the radiator core top to bottom, looking for areas that feel cold when others feel hot.
#65
Posted 30 December 2010 - 04:01 PM
new fan installed, still over heat will pull other parts off from another car throttle body and radiator and other things i might will need
#66
Posted 30 December 2010 - 04:10 PM
... it has to be something else maybe the iac or something that is not working right ...
I Agree... is Good Idea to Test some Parts from the Junk Yard, such as the Radiator and the MAF ... I Believe that you are in Good Path now.
Good Luck!
#67
Posted 05 January 2011 - 03:58 PM
the only issue i have right now is the radiator its plugged cold in middle
hot on top and bottom so will replace it and hopefully no more overheating problem
and one other thing is i cant figure out why is the parking lights still on when i turned all lights off
its staying on on the brake light and the side marker so i have to un hook battery so it will not kill the battery
Edited by soobies, 05 January 2011 - 04:01 PM.
#68
Posted 05 January 2011 - 05:19 PM
Welcome to Subarus! The parking lights are on because of a rocker-switch on top of the steering column... affectionately referred to as the "virgin switch". This allows you to keep the parking lights on when the ignition is off....and one other thing is i cant figure out why is the parking lights still on when i turned all lights off
its staying on on the brake light and the side marker so i have to un hook battery so it will not kill the battery
#69
Posted 05 January 2011 - 10:05 PM
Welcome to Subarus! The parking lights are on because of a rocker-switch on top of the steering column... affectionately referred to as the "virgin switch". This allows you to keep the parking lights on when the ignition is off.
hrm... ill check on the top of the column
#70
Posted 06 January 2011 - 10:22 AM
...slapped on the spfi all from a junk yard and its running beautifully ...
I'm Glad to Read that you Fixed it... Another Good Old Subie on the Road!
#71
Posted 06 January 2011 - 12:44 PM
back to running rough but driveable
#72
Posted 06 January 2011 - 06:36 PM
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