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bonvos winter warrior
Posted 06 April 2013 - 05:07 AM
well today i got it put together and ready to drop the rebuilt motor in tomorrow tried something new and recorded the whole think its a little long
Edited by bonvo, 06 April 2013 - 05:10 AM.
Posted 06 April 2013 - 08:03 PM
got the subaru all back together it seems to run better and the motor is a lot tighter then before but according to the compression tester the results havnt changed beginning to suspect dads prehistoric compression tester but its still hard not to feel defeated after going threw all that and seeing those numbers
Posted 06 April 2013 - 08:56 PM
Dude, the video is awesome!!!....it's both educational and the soundtrack is a killer!!!. Try Emperor and Meshuggah when you record the test drive. ...more
Posted 06 April 2013 - 08:58 PM
very glad someone watched the video i was worried because its so long people wouldnt watch it
Posted 06 April 2013 - 09:23 PM
No sealant on the oil pump gasket nor the cylinder head gaskets?
Posted 06 April 2013 - 10:09 PM
nope no need thats what the gaskets are for no leaks so far
Posted 07 April 2013 - 06:27 PM
went out and messed with the oil pump a little as i was having low oil pressure at idle and put the last parts on it then took it out to seat the rings. im seriously doubting my dads compression tester at this point it runs way to good and way to smooth and pulls to good to still have 100 psi of compression
still having oil pressure issues at idle once its hot not sure what the deal is any ideas?
Posted 07 April 2013 - 07:03 PM
Posted 07 April 2013 - 08:06 PM
old oil pump that we took apart cleaned and resealed all the check valves were cleaned and lubed with assembly lube when put back into there proper place it didnt have this issue before which is what is puzzling me
Posted 07 April 2013 - 08:34 PM
What symptoms (what you see and what you hear) are indicators of low oil pressure at idle?
Posted 07 April 2013 - 08:42 PM
dont see or here anything aside from the idiot light on the dash it sounds fine and there are no leaks when its cold its not an issue as it gets warm and the thermostat opens it flickers then as after it gets to the optimum operating temp it stays on the second its off idle light turns off
Posted 07 April 2013 - 09:20 PM
both say that parts in the pump are sticking we had the no oil pressure at start up took the pump apart found what was sticking and fixed that issue it has oil pressure at start up and it has oil pressure off idle the light only comes on at idle when the engine is hot im still considering pulling the oil pump off yet again and go threw it all again
Posted 07 April 2013 - 10:16 PM
I'd check the clearance around the vanes with a feeler gauge. And maybe replace the springs in the check valves. check out this thread: http://www.ultimates...-1979-brat-4x4/
If that doesn't work you can always get one of these: http://www.ebay.com/...a135f91&vxp=mtr
I'm tempted to plunk down for one of those and call it good. $75 for a new oil pump is pretty good, esp. since the ones at o'reilly's and auto zone are going for $120 a piece! At least you know it isn't your mains causing the problem!
Posted 07 April 2013 - 10:25 PM
as for oil im running castrol gtx 10-30w same oil ive run in every vehicle i own but im thinking about stepping it up to 10-40w
thanks for the link ill read threw the thread but i would much rather fix what i got instead of buying a new one
Posted 07 April 2013 - 11:03 PM
looking at that thread i think that the new o ring that the rebuild kit came with is to thick and the clearances aren't right
Posted 08 April 2013 - 05:01 PM
Posted 08 April 2013 - 06:24 PM
Stole a pic today.
Edited by stewartkb, 08 April 2013 - 06:24 PM.
Posted 08 April 2013 - 07:28 PM
right on thanks for the pic man
i got the oil pressure issue squared away and now im just driving it to finish the break in
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