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EA81-Weber-cold start


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62 replies to this topic

#51 ferox

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Posted 10 November 2012 - 07:59 PM

Correct, once you get the baseline according to the manual, you can go from there...as I did. I'm at about 750 idle now.

Thanks for mentioning that.

#52 ferox

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Posted 10 November 2012 - 08:14 PM

The "factory" choke pull off spec varies according to application on stock Weber 2 barrels supplied as original equipment.

True enough. And extremely cold environments will obviously be more inclined to need custom adjustment. My point was that the baseline tuning must come before a choke adjustment or you could end up compensating for improper tuning with a choke adjustment. The op did not explicitly mention that he established baseline operation according to the tuning procedure until a couple posts ago and indicated earlier that he did not know what I was referring to when I mentioned the idle speed screw adjustment. In most cases, the factory choke setting should be fine for a properly tuned Weber. I am not saying it will be perfect, but it should be functional.

#53 opus

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Posted 10 November 2012 - 08:29 PM

The op did not explicitly mention that he established baseline operation according to the tuning procedure until a couple posts ago and indicated earlier that he did not know what I was referring to when I mentioned the idle speed screw adjustment.


I was confused wondering if you didnt mean the idle mix screw....until you mentioned a piece of paper, then I got it. :)

#54 ferox

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Posted 10 November 2012 - 10:57 PM

I was confused wondering if you didnt mean the idle mix screw....until you mentioned a piece of paper, then I got it. :)

I don't mean any offense. At this point it's obvious you have a better understanding of the Weber than many who post up questions about it. I have been duped too many times into wasting my time trying to help diagnose carb issues only to find out on page 4 of the thread that they pulled the carb off a '78 Ford F150 V-8 and didn't bother to re-jet. So when we covered the idle speed screw setting, I assumed you hadn't followed the instructions. At this point, if it can't be established that the basic preliminaries haven't been followed or people fight me when I try to help them I don't spend too much of my time trying to convince them. At the same time, for future readers, I want to make sure it's obvious that there's a sequence to fine tuning a carb. Nice work getting it sorted.

#55 old sub freak

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 01:46 AM

Hey there, well i got a weber From Craigslist for my wifes 88 gl wagon.The guy I got it from was a VW buff and he got it with a bug he bought.So the info i found stamped on the carb is 32/36 FAV ?? then a space,then 23a 9v does this make any sence???I don't have the best sight so I could be off a letter or something.It is backwards from the other webers i have worked on.The choke and fuel mixtures are on the back of the carb,like by the spare tire and the throttle disc that the throttle cable hooks too goes clockwise,whereas the others I have seen go counter clockwise...Anyway I am trying to get the cold start cycle to work.right now you give it 2 pumps and it has a strong idle at 600 rpm's.i don't think the fast idle is even kickin in.I just got it running yesterday so i still have a way to go...Thanks for all in info and any leads or procedures that might help,all this helps so much.Have a smooth New years,Todd the OSF:banana: OH YEA !!!

#56 djellum

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 05:20 AM

its a DFAV, which is a mirror image of the standard DGV, and should have a water choke (unless its been replaced).

many of the DF series had different venturis than the DGV so check on the side of the carb (or the veturis themselves if they are stamped somewhere). if the venturis are different sizes from the DGV then all the jet settings and such you have probably already looked up are wrong. if the venturis are marked 26 and 27 in the circles on the side of the carb it should run just like a dgv but reversed in appearance.

if it does still have the water choke you will of course need to hook it up to the cooling system, and or adjust it accordingly. the electric choke you loosen and twist to adjust it, idk about the water choke.

#57 old sub freak

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 12:58 PM

Well Thank you Djell, The carb has electric choke and I will check the venturis numbers. I have some paperwork that came with it and I'm hopeing that will help me "line it up" or whatever the term is...It is spossed to have low miles on it.It looks new,no stains or anything like that.So I will keep you all posted how it comes out.The girl said she took it to town and it died at a light or two...Thats nice haha....always somethin...Thanks again,Todd:banana:

#58 djellum

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 03:46 PM

you may want to check the fuel pressure. webers are sensetive to fuel pressure, and if its too far off it wont tune right.

also 88 should be FI if it was a US car, so check to make sure it doesnt have a fuel injection pump in it.

go for 3psi to 3.5 psi.

#59 old sub freak

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 01:08 AM

Hmmm now you got me wondering..Could be its not a 1988.But it is carberatored and it has a carb fuel pump...I will check the fuel pressure tommorow.I got the cold start system working but there is a bad "flat spot" just as you start to step into it.Being an automatic you notice it more.If you step too hard at first it will die..I can "feather it",but the wife just hasn't got that figured out yet and at times it dies..and guess who catches hell??? could the first jet be too big giving it too much fuel? there is a small amout of slack in the carb cable,I plan on taking that up tommorow and see if that helps..anyway I will get through this....Hey Good Things Take Time!!! right?? todd OSF :banana:

#60 djellum

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 02:56 AM

last car I had that did that was a timing issue. the vacuum advance was on the wrong port. easy check before digging too deep, make sure the timing is good and the vac advance is on ported and holds a vacuum.

other than that I really cant advise. Im just getting into a weber myself. I have the same one as you that I just rebuilt and getting ready to put it on.

check your jets, air correctors, etc and see what you have. the average ones are listed on the site but they dont always work exactly and need changed out.

theres the idle circuit, then a progression circuit (couple holes just above the butterfly valve) that kick in extra fuel to transfer from idle to throttle, and the secondaries. check the settings on those would be my guess.

#61 old sub freak

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 04:58 PM

Well it sounds like I need to look into the progression circut as that is where the flat spot is...the change from idle to throttle..I set the timing and checked the vacuume advance.It holds vacuum when i suck on it and hold it with my tongue?sp. so we will get there.Hey at least it starts and runs good...One step at a time..C ya OSF:banana:

#62 djellum

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 06:13 PM

are you on ported or manifold vacuum?

#63 old sub freak

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Posted 01 January 2013 - 01:27 AM

Hey Djell,Sorry for not gettin back sooner.its been a wild one...It was plumbed from the carb to the dist.But yesterday it started leakin oil BAD from the front seal area.!And that turned into a rod knock, so thats all she wrote.I have a 1987 DL wagon that she can drive.That also has carb issues.But all doable.Anyway thanks for the help Happy New Years. OSF




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