Jump to content

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse

- - - - -

Clutch class 101 ....

  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 Stubies Subie

Stubies Subie

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Members
  • 408 posts
  • Colton, Oregon

Posted 02 November 2012 - 12:00 AM

I need a little educating in the in the differences in clutches from standard, to stage 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and so on.

I'm pretty well convinced I have a clutch issue with ol KC, my 91 4x4 Loyale wagon.

I felt the thing slip today fr the first time, let me explain what happened:

I was sitting at a stop sign at a bit of an incline (maybe 15 degrees or so) on a rain soaked street, and in the wet weather, having somewhat bald front tires (I'm getting ready to change them out for better ones)

I had the cars stacking up behind me, and knowing I was going to get a lot of wheel spin coming off that hill as i entered traffic, I decided to put it in 4WD, I brought up the rpms, rather quickly let my foot off the clutch ( don't have much clutch to begin with, as it engages 3/4 of the way up, if not more)

as I pulled out, I noticed that the tires weren't spinning, but the clutch was slipping.

when I had the clutch put in the car, I had bought a used low millage clutch kit, only having a few hundred miles on it, and my original flywheel was toast, so I went with a used one.

I know it was probably a bad idea, but I was running out of money, and needed to get the car running.

fast forward a year, the clutch never has been right as far as where it engages on the clutch peddle, and I've always suspected that I put the wrong flywheel in it, and that has been the main cause of the problem, (this is just a guess on my part, but it's what I'm thinking)

after I felt it slip today, I'm thinking maybe the time is coming that I will need to correct the problem, and start out with all new stuff, from a new flywheel to a clutch kit.

I'm also getting ready to put a trailer hitch on the car for towing, so I think now is a good time to start collecting parts for the clutch job.

I've been doing some google searching and seeing stuff from stock to stage 5 clutch kits, I'll start out with a new flywheel, but what do I want for a clutch kit? I figure to solve the clutch problem I have now, I'll replace everything including the clutch cable, throw out bearing and pilot bearing.

so educate me, what am I looking for?

#2 tractor pole

tractor pole

    [catch phrase here]

  • Members
  • 552 posts
  • Monroe, WA

Posted 02 November 2012 - 12:14 AM

unless your flywheel is cracked or heat scorched I would get it resurfaced at a local machine shop (about $35) but the root of your problem is most likely an improperly machined step where the previous owner/mechanic only machined the surface that the clutch disc contacts. I am not sure of the measurement but I have seen this issue covered here before.


#3 jj421


    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 601 posts
  • Auburn, WA

Posted 02 November 2012 - 06:22 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong, since I'm not that knowledgeable about this about this either, but isn't the difference between stock and stage 5 clutch kits are how quickly the clutch wears down? Like a stage 5 would be like a racing clutch, whereas a stock one would burn up pretty fast if you took it racing and weren't careful.

#4 Idasho


    Lost in the woods....

  • Members
  • 970 posts
  • North ID

Posted 02 November 2012 - 06:36 PM


Primary differences between stages will be friction material and clamp load.

A more aggressive friction material grabs more. Combined with a higher clamp load, go far enough and you basically find a ON-OFF clutch. Some materials also do not loose grip as they heat up.

Higher clamp load brings one nasty part, a heavier pedal.

In my experience anything beyond a traditional organic disc (stoc) results in a very short life. I had a Fibertuff disc with a higher clamp load pressure plate in my SHO taurus. Smooth engagement, fairly light pedal, and gripped, no matter how hot it got. Short life though, as it actually WEARS the flywheel. Over the years in many different vehicles Ive tried a variety of setups, only to fall back to one simple setup.

Stock disk + slightly higher clamp load.

With flat flywheels that means a custom pressure plate.

Subarus are easy. Just specify a shallower step when the flywheel is getting turned will result in a higher clamp load.

#5 GeneralDisorder


    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 22,054 posts
  • Portland

Posted 03 November 2012 - 01:32 AM

It could be that the flywheel depth was not correct - it cant be the wrong flywheel because all EA82 use the same - XT6 is the only other similar unit and those have a different (shallower) step height. Thought that's usually something I measure.... may be a weak pressure plate. Have you let out the cable a bit?

You don't want a staged clutch. That's not going to provide any benefit to you and only decrease longevity - just as performance brakes sacrifice pad and rotor life for performance so do staged clutch setups.


Edited by GeneralDisorder, 03 November 2012 - 01:35 AM.

#6 maozebong


    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 339 posts
  • Seattle, WA

Posted 03 November 2012 - 10:58 AM

yeah you don't need anything beefier if you arent going to increase the power.

i wouldnt mind a better friction material, but id keep the same pressure plate. unfortunately, to my knowledge there isnt anything else other than the average sprung organic clutch disk.

if your flywheel still has the proper step in it and isnt scorched/cracked, just hit it with some scotch brite pads, or a wire brush wheel on a drill. no need to even waste the time driving to the machinist.

#7 Stubies Subie

Stubies Subie

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Members
  • 408 posts
  • Colton, Oregon

Posted 03 November 2012 - 11:29 PM

I'm kind of thinking I'm going to have this fixed in January, so now might be a good time to be looking for a 5 speed D/R transmission to replace the regular one that I have in there now.

I like the idea of stiffer pressure plate, I'm not sure where the flywheel came from all I know is that mine was toast, so this one replaced it.

the car should hold out until January, if not, then I'll be getting it fixed sooner, but in the mean time, I better get busy and start collecting parts, and I figured my best bet to cure the problem it has now is to just replace everything with new from the flywheel to the throw out bearing and everything in-between including the pilot bearing as well 8-|

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users