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scary electrical issues


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44 replies to this topic

#26 Cougar

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 06:43 PM

See if spraying some starter fluid into the air intake will get the engine going. Do you know if there is spark getting to the plugs?



#27 glkiller2

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 06:44 PM

I tested the fuses with key on 15 amp to ignition and 10 amp to egi all normal voltages. meter too.


Edited by glkiller2, 18 April 2013 - 06:45 PM.


#28 glkiller2

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 06:47 PM

I tested the coil it's ok. it did rumble to a start when I unplugged the coolant sensor awhile back but died quickly.

I got it to do about the same kinda start once by flooring the gas.

 

It sputters like it wants to catch, but the CEL and fuel pump are goin off erratically, like ecu loses power intermittently.


Edited by glkiller2, 18 April 2013 - 06:49 PM.


#29 glkiller2

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 06:50 PM

I don't have any starter fluid, I was told never to use it by many people I respect the opinions of:)



#30 glkiller2

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 06:54 PM

can anyone else confirm the existence of wire connectors taped up in the wire harness where it goes from under hood fuse box into fender, (who's bright idea was that anyway) put the wires in the fender sheesh)



#31 Cougar

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 11:55 PM

I wouldn't worry about looking at the wires in the fender until you have proven there is a problem there. If all the fuses seem to be getting good power to them then you need to try and find out if there really is intermittent power to the ECU. Since the ignition relay provides some of the power that is a very good suspect. The grounding should be checked also. I myself have to wonder though if something else is going on to cause the problem. Have you checked to see if there is a broken timing belt causing this trouble. If not you should do that.

 

Using starter fluid really isn't a problem if you use it correctly. I have used it many times without any trouble what so ever. You just need to use a little bit. Like a one second blast on to the air cleaner. There is no way the engine can be damaged doing that. But if you don't like the idea then don't do it. It is a good way to see if the engine will fire up. If the engine won't run on that then there are some basic things that need to be checked out.



#32 Gloyale

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 04:07 AM

It's the alt. I got 2 from CarQuest that do the same thing. Fault in the sense cicuit. It's the yellow wire at the alt that is also tied directly to the ECU Ig. 12v wire. We replaced the alt with a genuine Subaru alt and the car is all good.


There should be a sticky about these bad alts. It affects the 90-94 with the yellow wire at the alt (round plug)

#33 Gloyale

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 04:12 AM

 
It sputters like it wants to catch, but the CEL and fuel pump are goin off erratically, like ecu loses power intermittently.


These ad ethe excact symtoms off the bad alt. try unplugging the alt and the. Try to start the car. The Cel should be steady, full not cycling. It should fire off.

#34 ivans imports

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 10:51 AM

have you checked the main engine ground on rear side of ds intake ? also the main engine ground on starter



#35 glkiller2

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 11:33 AM

Yes! Progress!

 

 

 

have you checked the main engine ground on rear side of ds intake ? also the main engine ground on starter

Several times

 

 

 

These ad ethe excact symtoms off the bad alt. try unplugging the alt and the. Try to start the car. The Cel should be steady, full not cycling. It should fire off.

 

This did steady the CEL and fuel pump it no longer flashes and cycles, but also the car would not start, would crank, and I could smell fuel, but sounded like no spark. It did't try to catch at all.

 

So does this circuit supply power to the coil while key is in start position? but the computer takes over when in on position, (the purpose of the diode).

If so, could I wire power into that connector to the yellow wire and get it to start.

Or could that be dangerous, and I should just get a good alternator for it and cross my fingers, (again)

 

Also I'd like to suggest a sticky:

 

After all the research I've done, seeing the suggestions to unplug stuff and see what changes I think there should be a procedure suggested that is easy to find:

 

Check fuses

unplug coolant sensor

unplug alt

unplug MAF

etc.

 

I had no idea before I started this that unplugging these things could lead me to an answer, thought it would just create another problem. (possibly dangerous)

 

Thank you all very much for your time and input:)

 

We're getting closer I think.



#36 glkiller2

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 12:40 PM

IT"S ALIVE!!!!

 

when I tried to start with alt unplugged, I had forgotten to plug in the coil after testing. (derr)

 

plugged in coil, and cranked for awhile, it stumbled to a rough start (still flooded) then smoothed out, started belching smoke (prob fuel in exhaust)

revved up, sounds responsive to throttle, smooth as a 300,000 mile engine can:)

 

I'm gonna get me a REAL alternator, change my oil (prob fuel in it too), and drive it like I stole it! woooohoooo!

 

 

ty all so much

 

gloyale thanks for chiming in with the unplug it suggestion! owe ya a growler (beer)


Edited by glkiller2, 19 April 2013 - 12:41 PM.


#37 glkiller2

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 12:44 PM

Goes to show put it on the sticky if not use it for a title:

 

Bought a new alternator? Don't trust it for a second. Want to check it? Unplug it.

 

I thought since it was new it wasn't the problem, WISH I had known how easy that is to check.

 

Now I gotta put the car back together...

 

AND resist the urge to throw that couple days of use alternator through the window of the parts store:)

 

Thinking I will do the alternator mod suggested by GD and others, stick a '97 alt in there and redo the wiring to the square plug.

I looked at a parts site suggested here and the new alt for the 90-94 is still $300

I likie $75 and a little splicing mucho bettero.


Edited by glkiller2, 19 April 2013 - 12:49 PM.


#38 glkiller2

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 12:54 PM

BTW it just occurred to me that my 300,00 mile engine still sounds smoother than my 98 ej25 with a supposed fresh rebuild 20K.

(EJ22 has recently had the HLA tick, fixed now) that engine sounded great for sittin for months waitin for me to unplu my new alt:)

 

Thanks again everyone, keep rockin the forum!



#39 johnceggleston

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 01:57 PM

buy a used subaru alternator and drive on.



#40 Gloyale

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 11:37 AM


AND resist the urge to throw that couple days of use alternator through the window of the parts store:)

 

Which store?  It would be nice to figure out what stores and rebuilders have these bad alts.

 

 

 

I think these alts would work if the wiring in the car were changed a tad.  Cut the yellow wire and leave it off, jumper 12V constant from the main lead over to the pole on the alt for the yellow wire.  This is basically how the newer alts are already.



#41 14D

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 11:45 AM

I've gotten bad ones from autozone and o'riellys.  Strongly considering preemptively swapping my current o'rielly's one out for a newer subaru.

 

when swapping to the 97 alt where do you get the plug?  From a junkyard?



#42 ivans imports

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 11:06 AM

Have had a plie of bad rebiuld alts lately but never seen one make a no start just no charge glad you found it



#43 Gloyale

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 11:08 AM

I've gotten bad ones from autozone and o'riellys.  Strongly considering preemptively swapping my current o'rielly's one out for a newer subaru.

 

when swapping to the 97 alt where do you get the plug?  From a junkyard?

 

Female spade connectors will slip right on to the spades on the Alt.



#44 glkiller2

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 11:23 AM

it was formerly schucks, I bought the one that lasted two years from them, lifetime warranty.

 

the new one was warrantied by oreilly since they took over the store. seriously it lasted about 60 miles.

 

I'm going to tell them what happened, and see if they want to improve the situation (crappy parts rebuilt in mexico and they must be proud of that they put their very own sticker sayin so on it:) ) or whatever.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Which store?  It would be nice to figure out what stores and rebuilders have these bad alts.

 

 

 

I think these alts would work if the wiring in the car were changed a tad.  Cut the yellow wire and leave it off, jumper 12V constant from the main lead over to the pole on the alt for the yellow wire.  This is basically how the newer alts are already.

 

But that yellow wire is fed from the ignition fuse 16 along with the fuel pump, I would think it would need to be grounded with a simulated load (resistor). But that may take away the alt problem detection circuit I would think. I dunno.:)



#45 ivans imports

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Posted 24 April 2013 - 09:52 AM

Justy and nissan use same conector some mitsubishis to






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