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86 gl ecs
Posted 16 November 2012 - 01:22 PM
Posted 17 November 2012 - 02:41 AM
As a reference, here is what is said right out of the Chiltons. "Engine starts but stops immediately: 1. Loose or faulty electrical connections at distributor, coil or alternator. 2. Insufficient fuel reaching the carb. Disonnect the fuel line at the carb. Place a container under the disconnected fuel line. Observe the flow of fuel from the line. 3. Vacuum leak at the gasket surfaces of the intake manifold and or carburetor. Assure all mountin bolts and vacuum hoses are connected to the carb. and 4. Faulty ignition ballast resistor. (chpt 5) *what ever the heck that is...??
If I remember right... there are two filters, one by the fuel pump and one in the engine comp. (fuel seperator) that can plug. After it dies check for spark.. bright blue.. jumpy spark other wise potential weak coil or Ignition module in distributor, or items above from the Chiltons. . Agreed, what you are describing sounds like fuel starvation. But just trying to confirm to eliminate the "what it is obviously not" as these cars get older they just seem to do what they want and usually more than just one item is causing a problem. sometimes...
It does sound fuelish.. Possible plugged fuel filters??? Some carbs have little pressure regulators by them (but may be confusing models/years) possibly failure there.... Just tossing out things here... Being careful with the raw gas but you could disconnect the fuel supply and add line to run to a container and turn ignition on and see fuel delivery when trying to start. Spray Carb cleaner into some of the little ports in carb?
Yes, ECS light on the "Electronic Control Module", "ECM", will flash a red light "code". You have to connect the "test connectors", read codes then disconnect. Do a search on the task bar above in "search".
I am not a mechanic... just pretend to be one on the weekends. I am not that familiar with the year you have. Possibly others can get your further.
Fuel and Spark and just tossing out ideas. My .o2
Edited by Indrid cold, 17 November 2012 - 11:16 AM.
Posted 17 November 2012 - 11:17 AM
You can pull the codes, etc but you'll likely find that an assortment of sensors are bad and one in particular - the MAP sensor - always fails. This one sensor is more expensive than a new Weber carb and you can't find good used ones because they have all failed and there weren't many out there to start with. The whole computer controlled carb system is aweful to work with and extremely outdated. Just get a Weber and toss all that junk in the dumpster.
Posted 17 November 2012 - 11:21 AM
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