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timing belt issues (Part 2)
Posted 28 January 2013 - 07:29 PM
The belts look pretty good, both the idler pulleys had seized, and the driver-side one had spit its bearings out, causing that belt to jump. Keeping the belts for drive-home spares, if needed.. The new idler bearing are pressed together, so I can't re-pack 'em with real grease to replace the OEM Yak fat..
While in there, replaced the contacts in the starter, which had become intermittent, and the voices that told me the oil pump is OK thought the water pump wasn't, the bypass hose was soft and the water pump o-ring was leaking in spite of liberal quantities of silicone, so, new pump, gasket and all the bolts and the bypass hose.
I think I understand the belt timing, but the book says to apply 18 ft/lbs of tensioning torque to the belt while tightening the idler pulleys. There seems to a special tool for this. Is this actually required? Why?
Posted 28 January 2013 - 07:38 PM
What they are trying do is get all of the slack onto the tensioner side of the belt. If it is a new belt, it probably won't matter much as you may need to reset the tensioner in a few hundred miles anyway.
If you want to, you can grab the cam sprocket with your hand and apply some back-torque to it.
BTW, the first time I did belts, I saw that torque spec and misread it: I saw the INCH-lbs figure and thought it said FOOT-lbs, so I welded-up a special tool to handle that kind of torque... DUH!
Posted 29 January 2013 - 12:04 AM
Posted 29 January 2013 - 11:35 PM
Once the belt is on, lift (or press, depending which belt you're doing) the tensioner with a couple fingers until it's tight. Check that the cam marks are still aligned. Check that the opposite side of the belt has almost no slack (you can push a bit) and that it can't skip teeth on the cam. Tighten the tensioners. Sometimes you have to re-adjust the belt on the cam two or three times; I usually put it off by a tooth or so and it shifts into position when I tension the belt.
I've also used a screwdriver or long crescent wrench to hold the tensioner pulley while tightening. As long as the belt has no play (ok, no more than 1/16-1/8 inch or so) and all the marks line up, you should be ok. Check the flywheel, too, if you didn't lock it in place prior to tensioning.
Posted 30 January 2013 - 10:59 AM
Posted 30 January 2013 - 01:09 PM
Edited by old sub freak, 30 January 2013 - 01:17 PM.
Posted 30 January 2013 - 02:08 PM
Yes.... check your timing belts... often. And why not... they are right in front of you because they are coverless!
Posted 30 January 2013 - 03:33 PM
Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:45 PM
On reflection, the new WP had the fan mounting flange about an inch closer to the block than the old pump, so I spaced it out with washers and assembled the whole thing. I can only think that I must have neglected to tighten the bolts...
Got the car towed home, replaced the new pump with the old pump, put it all back together and drove away. Will presently find out the long term effect of coolant on new belts.
About 50 miles on this setup now, runs just like it used to..
When I pulled the plugs to center TDC for the belt installation, I noticed that three of the plugs looked about perfect, but the plug from #2 cylinder seemed a bit off. Local Soob specialist said the SPFI on the EA 82 starves #2 because of the manifolding. Anybody have a fix for this?
Posted 05 February 2013 - 01:53 PM
now - as to how much it takes to do that, or whether a small amount does anything significant, i have no idea. what I do know is that if the belt gets saturated it breaks down quickly and will break.
people are using the PCI kits often for newer interference EJ engines where a broken belt means bent valves. they're a great fit for me anyway.
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