12 replies to this topic

[BrianB]

Hello-

 

On my 93 Loyale SW, 5 spd, 4WD, 225,000 miles, the blower motor, after running for months only on the highest setting, finally quit. The Haynes manual and the internet suggested the blower motor resistor was the problem, so I located and removed it and found its wire coils in shambles. Got a new one and installed it and still no blower operation at any speed.

 

I pulled the blower and tried testing it with a wire from the battery pos terminal to one of the terminals on the motor and grounding the motor housing to the battery neg teminal. (Pardon my ignorance, but is that one way to test the motor? The Haynes manual says use a jumper to the blue wire at the motor when it is in the car, but I had the blower out to check for mouse debris).

 

Meanwhile, another possible culprit is the blower motor relay (according to Haynes and the internet) which I cannot find to save my life! (Red/Yel, Red/Wht, Blu/Red, Grn/Wht wires to it, per the Haynes schematic.) Where is that located?

 

Finally, I have not posted much to USMB and am wondering if one can search archives somehow. I cannot figure that out either, sadly.

 

I have checked the fuzes and they are ok, and actually got a heater/defroster/AC control assembly and 4-speed blower switch today from the salvage yard but before putting them in, I want to make sure the motor functions.

 

So...

 

1) How does on test the blower motor out of the car?

2) Where the %***&% is the blower motor relay located?

3) Is there an archives search feature for the older Subs?

 

Any help greatly appreciated. I am the original owner of this car and cannot let it go, rust and idiosyncracies and all. I have put in new radiators and front CV axles, replaced the timing belts, and done homemade "bodywork" on the car for twenty years but this one has me stumped. Got to get another 250 K out of it. (:

 

Thanks,

Brian

[ystrdyisgone]

In my experience, the search function on this site is useless. Try google with usmb in the search. This thread I posted some time ago may help http://www.ultimates...x/#entry1139565

Edited by ystrdyisgone, 08 March 2013 - 01:11 AM.

[MR_Loyale]

I remember when mine had issues. The connector had gotten kind of crisp and didn't make good contact. Had to wiggle it before the blower would come on.

[NorthWet]

Another possibility is plain old wear.  I have had 2 blower motors that had the copper commutator segments seriously worn down, the carbon brushes nearly worn out, and carbon and copper dust everywhere.  It is fairly easy to disassemble and check, as only 2 screws and some tape hold the motor's end cap on.

[soobsogood]

The relay is located behind the fuse box in a GL, I assume it's the same in the Loyale. I basically had to sit the exact opposite of how I drive...Feet in the air, head on the floor in front of the clutch. There are four relays hiding up there behind the plastic trim.

[NorthWet]

And, regarding how to test the motor out of the car, just connect power to one terminal and ground to the other.  If the pos and neg are reversed from normal, the motor will just (try to) spin backward. 

[ivantruckman]

I would agree the most likely culprit is the relay, they are not the best relays in the world, search for Jesek ,s write up its very good , he replaces the round relay with 30 amp bosh relays. there a pain to access , about 5 inches above the fuse box , there round metal things , 4 of them . I cant remember which relay is the blower.  1 is left headlight one is right head light one is blower , and i cant remember the 4th.

[BrianB]

Thanks fellahs!

 

I have opened up the motor and the brushes are worn but still there. Lots of crud on the top. The "ring" is scored. I'll look tomorrow for that blasted relay and report back.

 

I should add that a few months back, before winter I remember cause it was a rainy day, there was electrical burning smell on a couple occasions when trying the defroster which prompted immediate shut down of the blower though it later worked but finally quit for good recently. I forgot to mention that in my first post.

 

Brian

[Cougar]

I would agree the most likely culprit is the relay, they are not the best relays in the world, search for Jesek ,s write up its very good , he replaces the round relay with 30 amp bosh relays. there a pain to access , about 5 inches above the fuse box , there round metal things , 4 of them . I cant remember which relay is the blower.  1 is left headlight one is right head light one is blower , and i cant remember the 4th.

 

I think the fourth relay is for the rear defroster if I remember correctly.

[NickNakorn]

My intermittant fault has returned! 190 miles out of a 200 mile trip and the heater blower stops - have to keep wiping the inside of the screen to see out. The blower starts again a few miles later and today has been intermittant. Thanks all for the tips above. Will investigate the relay if the problem persists..

[scoobiedubie]

The blower motor relay will look fried, if it has gone bad. Get a replacement at the junk yard. Mine went out twice in 350,000 miles. You will probably smell something burning, as soon as it goes. In the future, try not constantly running the fan on high. The defrost system also works to dehumidify the air before blowing it on the windshield. But it appears that the A/C has to be fully charged and functioning, in order for the dehumidify action to be working.

[MilesFox]

It is possible the switch has failed. Can you get it to work by pressing on or wiggling the knob? I had one that failed in a manner that i removed the knob, shoved a pen onto the peg and lased it up with a rubber band to make it work until i could replace the switch

[TOsborn]

I had a good relay in mine, but the connector had crumbled over the years causing blower motor failure.  A quick trip to the junkyard and some soldering fixed it.  A quick relay test is swapping the blower relay for a headlight relay (or any of the other three that you know works).  Should help narrow the issue a bit.