Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

pressing axle into knuckle


  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1 jonas

jonas

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 990 posts
  • Oakridge

Posted 21 March 2013 - 08:50 PM

Replacing axle AGAIN on my '85 Brat. Have a 3 inch lift. It's always the passenger side and I only get about a year at the most out of it. I've had the Brat for about 5 years and have only needed to replace the passenger side. when putting the knuckle back on i use the 2x4 and the BFH method. Give it a couple love taps, eyeball match it to the other side and call it good.

 

Now my question is if i'm off by just a C-hair not getting it pressed back on all the way could that be eating my axle at a faster rate? I know remans are crap. i know a lift will not help axle life either. last time i replaced it i was able to score a "real" axle for a bit more $$ figuring it would last longer. I'm just puzzled that it is always the passenger side. with the amount of axles i've replaced i'm pretty quick now.



#2 ferox

ferox

    King of the Echo People

  • Members
  • 845 posts
  • Portland, Oregon

Posted 21 March 2013 - 10:49 PM

"when putting the knuckle back on i use the 2x4 and the BFH method. Give it a couple love taps, eyeball match it to the other side and call it good."

 

I'm not quite sure what you mean by that?

 

Do your axles typically fail at the DOJ or CV?



#3 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 234 posts
  • US

Posted 22 March 2013 - 03:22 PM

Now my question is if i'm off by just a C-hair not getting it pressed back on all the way could that be eating my axle at a faster rate?

 

If the axle nut is torqued back on to spec then the axle is pressed into proper position.  Is the axle making noise after installation ?  If so, then it may help to "overtorque" the nut to press the axle in tighter.  I had to do that with mine.  I torqued the nut to spec then moved the nut more to achieve alignment for the pin.  Then I torqued the nut one more notch.  That eliminated the noise problem for me.  Others have recommended this solution and it is likely due to the fact that these cars are just old.



#4 jonas

jonas

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 990 posts
  • Oakridge

Posted 23 March 2013 - 11:28 AM

"when putting the knuckle back on i use the 2x4 and the BFH method. Give it a couple love taps, eyeball match it to the other side and call it good."

 

I'm not quite sure what you mean by that?

 

Do your axles typically fail at the DOJ or CV?

not sure where they are failing. put axle into knuckle, put 2x4 against knuckle, hit knuckle with 5 lb sledge.



#5 jonas

jonas

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 990 posts
  • Oakridge

Posted 23 March 2013 - 11:31 AM

If the axle nut is torqued back on to spec then the axle is pressed into proper position.  Is the axle making noise after installation ?  If so, then it may help to "overtorque" the nut to press the axle in tighter.  I had to do that with mine.  I torqued the nut to spec then moved the nut more to achieve alignment for the pin.  Then I torqued the nut one more notch.  That eliminated the noise problem for me.  Others have recommended this solution and it is likely due to the fact that these cars are just old.

yeah, i always use the overtorque method as well. I get everything back together, fits like a glove, no noise. just puzzled why it's ALWAYS the passenger side that goes. I put 200 miles a week on the Brat. Guess i'll just keep replacing.



#6 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 9,099 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 23 March 2013 - 12:41 PM

You CAN damage the inner edge of the hub piece, where it seats against the bearing. So don't overtorque it TOO much.  As haard as you can get it with a 2 foot breaker is plenty.   Take a look next time the hub is off, and see if the bearing has worn a groove on the inner face.  if so it will never seata right again.....throw it away and get another hub.

 

Also, what kind of shape is the cone washer in?  If your cone washer has ridges, it will catch, and not clamp down onto the axle shaft.  Ussually that affects wheel bearings not axles..but???

 

Is your lift a full 3"?  or are the strut tops taller than the crossmember drop?  that can also affect things.

 

Also, is it possible your lift blocks aren't drilled striaght?  I've seen bad lifts shift the crossmember over 1/2" or so...which could explain why it's just the passenger side that keeps going out.  They are somewhat more prone to failure becuase of the exhaust right under it......but 1 a year is prtety bad.


Edited by Gloyale, 23 March 2013 - 12:43 PM.


#7 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 234 posts
  • US

Posted 23 March 2013 - 12:47 PM

yeah, i always use the overtorque method as well. I get everything back together, fits like a glove, no noise. just puzzled why it's ALWAYS the passenger side that goes. I put 200 miles a week on the Brat. Guess i'll just keep replacing.

If there is no noise then what is the type of failure that is occurring ?



#8 jonas

jonas

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 990 posts
  • Oakridge

Posted 23 March 2013 - 07:33 PM

If there is no noise then what is the type of failure that is occurring ?

no noise when i put the new axle on. i'll have a look at the lift. steering doesn't pull. I've got some brake work to do as well so i'll have the front fairly well apart. I'll be able to really get a good look at everything at that point.



#9 djellum

djellum

    Eat, Live, Breath Subaru

  • Members
  • 613 posts
  • Vancouver WA

Posted 23 March 2013 - 10:22 PM

motor and trans mounts?  the motor and trans can flex under load and change the angle.  same with worn suspension parts.  maybe its just flexing enough to stretch the joints a bit.  wouldnt be bad to check while your digging that deep anyway.



#10 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 9,099 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 24 March 2013 - 02:27 AM

motor and trans mounts?  the motor and trans can flex under load and change the angle.  same with worn suspension parts.  maybe its just flexing enough to stretch the joints a bit.  wouldnt be bad to check while your digging that deep anyway.

 

Do you have a pitch stopper with your lift?  That could be the factor right there.  Allowing the engine to lift and twist under throttle, lifting the axle, in addition to the already bad front end lift under acceleration.



#11 jonas

jonas

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 990 posts
  • Oakridge

Posted 24 March 2013 - 09:53 AM

All good ideas guys thx. I just may go nuts on the front end since i'll have it apart and all those bits and pieces arn't expensive. It's just puzzeling why it's only the pass. side? A shudder up the steering wheel (doing brakes to fix like i said) when i apply brakes and the accelerated axle wear are the only probis i've ever had. Oh well, looks like i'll be driving the wifes car longer than i thought!



#12 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 234 posts
  • US

Posted 24 March 2013 - 01:18 PM

If your car is lifted and you frequently drive alone, then there is the possibility that your body weight is just enough difference to cause the passenger side to be out of acceptable angle limits for axle operation.

 

Your weight may be enough to actually flatten the angle of the driver side axle operation  while increasing the passenger side angle of operation.

 

Continuous operation at or beyond the specified angle limits will cause premature failure of the axle.



#13 jonas

jonas

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 990 posts
  • Oakridge

Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:10 PM

could be, anythings possible at this point. Shocks are pretty stiff tho, i don't get any noticable movement when i get in. I don't offroad it either. i'm gonna start digging into it next weekend. In all actuality it's probably just a crappy run of axles.



#14 MilesFox

MilesFox

    Catch this Fox!

  • Members
  • 10,497 posts
  • Madison/Milwaukee, WI

Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:36 PM

I don't see a mention of wheel bearing failure, so axle nuts are not in question. Do do see what you mean by the BFH and 2x4 method as this the technique that I use. I highly doubt this method compromises the axle during assembly.

 

I would be of the opinion that the torque and rotation of the engine and diff bias the output onto the passenger side, and this side sees the torque first. Also, in driving in traffic, right turns are more frequent, and tighter than wider sweeping left turns.

 

All of this is exaggerated by the 3 inch lift.

 

My 95 legacy has outback struts, but no body spacers, and one of the axles just failed recently after about 10,000 miles, and the other one is on its way out. The passenger side axle was out on mine.


Edited by MilesFox, 24 March 2013 - 06:38 PM.


#15 jonas

jonas

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 990 posts
  • Oakridge

Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:50 PM

.

 

yes, that is the side that that gets power first. That makes sense with the amount of weekly miles i put on it. I'm not an agressive driver and the miles are mostly hwy, i just think an axle would last longer. Still will be digging into it. Maybe i should look into a different work to and from rig and just use the Brat for coolness cruising around.


Edited by jonas, 24 March 2013 - 06:50 PM.


#16 MilesFox

MilesFox

    Catch this Fox!

  • Members
  • 10,497 posts
  • Madison/Milwaukee, WI

Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:57 PM

To make life easier, if the front axle fails again, just pop the roll pun and pull it out, leaving the spindle end in the hub, pop it into 4wd, and run around as RWD for a little bit.



#17 jonas

jonas

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 990 posts
  • Oakridge

Posted 24 March 2013 - 08:01 PM

heh, wouldn't be the first time.






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users