Jump to content

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse

- - - - -

EJ swap, Wiring the gauge cluster. Question.

Temperature sender EJ22 EA82 Gauge Cluster Temperature gauge Cooling System

  • Please log in to reply
3 replies to this topic

#1 suprunner


    New User

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 96 posts
  • Colorado

Posted 01 April 2013 - 06:20 PM

Hey all,


 I am trying to button up all the loose ends with my EJ22 swap. This button has to do with wiring the EA cluster to the EJ Temp Sender. I tried doing a parallel resistor. Not sure if I did it correctly. I put a 270 ohm resistor where the EA gauge cluster wire meets the EJ Temp Sender wire, then connected the resistor to ground on the body. There is no change. My gauge reads way past the "H". Does the same if there isn't a resistor. I tried putting it inline, just to see what happened. The needle then wouldn't move past the bottom line. I know that it isn't overheating. It does this after a cold night, and only turning the key to the "ON" position. Fans work correctly as well. I know I need to just do an aftermarket setup, but I'm in the midst of moving from SD to CO, and I just want a little peace-of-mind-reference for the temp....

 If I were to attach the resistor to the signal wire coming off of the sender (I mean attaching it within an inch or two of the actual sender), then to a ground, will that affect the signal going to the computer? Will this mess up fuel economy? Throw a CEL? Are there any pictures of what a parallel junction looks like? I am kinda guessing. I've done a few searches (more than a few), with multiple search entry options. Not trying to take up USMB's space....



Thank you for your time,




Edited by suprunner, 01 April 2013 - 06:22 PM.

#2 Cougar


    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 6,563 posts
  • Anchorage

Posted 03 April 2013 - 09:01 AM

I posted this information earlier in another post you made about this issue. Perhaps you didn't see it.


I assume the ground wire for the temperature sensor is the same as
chassis ground and if so then tieing to the ground of the sensor would be
no different than placing one lead of the resistor too chassis ground
and the other to the sensor signal lead.


Since placing the resistor in series with the signal lead made the
meter show cold it means there is too much resistance added. I suggest
you try to find a 100 ohm poteniometer and a 100 ohm resistor. Add a
couple of test leads to the pot, one lead to the wiper contact and the
other to one of the ends of the pot. Then place the two leads in series
with the sensor lead and see if you can adjust the pot and make the
gauge read what you think it should read according to the engine
temperature. If the gauge goes too high still with the pot maxed out
then add the 100 ohm resistor to the circuit and try adjusting the pot
again. If you find a place that makes the gauge show a valid temperature
reading then remove the pot and measure the resistance between the two
leads. Then you can purchase a resistor as close to that value as
possible. I'm not sure how calibrated the gauge will be if you add the
resistor but you could check things using an infrared temperature sensor
and compare readings to come up with a correction chart.

#3 Gloyale


    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 10,835 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 03 April 2013 - 10:23 AM

2 sensors  Leave the 2 prong one alone.


You only need the 1 prong sender from the gauge.


If it's pegging to hot, you have it grounded.


That aside.  I would wire the resistor on the manifold, right near the sensor.  Parrallel.


Are you sure you have your wire colors right?


EA temp wire = Yellow/green

EJ temp wire = White/green(90-94 Leg)


EA Oil pres. = Yellow/black

EJ Oil light. = Green/white(90-94 Leg)

#4 suprunner


    New User

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 96 posts
  • Colorado

Posted 04 April 2013 - 07:52 PM

I found my problem. I for some reason had attached the RG of the EJ temp sender to the YG of the Loyale's gauge cluster. Found that I had that WG not connected to anything. Hooked it up, and bingo. I have a my guage working. Thank you all!


 I just drove down to Boulder, CO and back to find a place to live. I had a really old Sears X-Cargo luggage box on top. I was consistant at 29mpg. I kept it at 3k/65mph the entire time though... What might I expect if I ditch the luggage box, and go 75mph? Lower fuel economy?


Again, Thank you ALL very MUCH for helping me!



Attached Files

Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Temperature sender, EJ22, EA82, Gauge Cluster, Temperature gauge, Cooling System

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users