presslab Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 Thanks. Bushing credit should really go to czny. I just did my version of the mod with factory sleeve and bolt. This may be upgraded if I decide to adjust the camber a little. Hmm? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127926-more-caster-and-camber/?p=1091573 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 No argument here, I just proved your point in post number 22. I determined that what changes is the range of force that the spring encounters and where the center of that range is on a scale of what the spring force is. The effect of the feeling is subjective. A torsion bar is a great way to look at it. Spring RATE is dependent on displacement and force. If you change one of them you change the spring rate. In this case we're changing displacement per coil. Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 (edited) Here's my latest progress and conundrum... I ordered tie rods based on my VIN number, I think. Here's what I'm looking at: I installed them and they seem to fit fine and work with the original alignment as I measured the old ones and matched them. Hmmm... Edited April 26, 2013 by kanurys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 (edited) Hmm? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127926-more-caster-and-camber/?p=1091573 Nice. Put credit where credit is due, then. I like the mod a lot. I used to be subscribed to that thread until usmb upgraded... Edited April 26, 2013 by kanurys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 (edited) Sorry, I don't wish to start an argument, but shortening a coil spring will increase its spring rate... Also It has been Mentioned here Before: ... When you cut a spring the spring rate actually increases (stiffer)... That has been answered as well: And to clarify about springs since I've read so much misinformation on here: The spring rate is not higher when you cut a spring down. It's exactly the same. Ignoring the issue of pre-load, a spring's rate is the same when its unloaded or on a shock. Variable rate springs are really just like having 2 different spring rates... Years ago, when I used Ford Tempo Coil Springs in the Front of my EA82 Wagon, I used Non-Progresive ones that I obtained from a Junk Yard; so they has the same measurement between turns, also the ones I obtained looks somehow "Cheaper" than the New ones obtained by Kanurys; their part number is different too; so I believe that Kanurys obtained the stiffer ones intended for the V6 Tempo, while I used the weaker ones from a 4 Cyl model; despite that both are from Gen 2 Tempos. But The Kanurys' Awesome Wagon has an EJ25 and maybe soon will have a Nice & Heavier Bumper... ... In the mean time, I've Autocaded up a bumper design... So I believe that the extra weight is the Reason why he chose the Stiffer Coil Springs. Kind Regards. Edited April 26, 2013 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 About these: ... tie rods based on my VIN number ... ... The New Tie Rods looks Thicker & Longer... I Wonder if Maybe the Difference you found between the Old ones and the New Ones is Related to the part's use, Maybe the Shorter is a 4WD (AWD) part and the Longer is a 2WD (FWD) part, could I ask if Both are Subaru Brand, or if one of those is Aftermarket? Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 (edited) Somehow the Old one looks aftermarket... Edited April 26, 2013 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 (edited) Thanks Jeszek, Do you know what a genuine Subaru tierod looks like? I have no idea what the old ones are. Maybe they're OEM, maybe they're aftermarket. The new item's part number is Moog EV208. After some more research I'm pretty sure they're the wrong tierods. Besides the ridges on the cup, they're just a little longer. Everything else fits fine. The ridges don't really rub on the boot at all. If I don't have adequate adjustment for alignment, then I'll just chop a little off the ends. Maybe it's for an RX? Edited April 26, 2013 by kanurys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 You're Welcome! ... Do you know what a genuine Subaru tierod looks like?... Well, my "BumbleBeast" still has the original ones, and they has the Flat area on their base, like the Bigger ones. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 I cut the springs to 13" free-height, taking approximately a quarter of a coil off each spring. The front end dropped exactly 1". Still pigeon-toed and 1.5" over the original 4" lift. With bumber weight on it and a few days settling I'm guessing it will come down to around 1" over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Today, I took the springs down to 12" free height at the center of the rod. They sit at about 0.5" over the stock springs. After they settled in on a drive everything was much better. The ride quality is more firm but still very compliant. It seems that the damping rate of the stock shocks is able to cope with the stiffer springs alright. This is all with a stock front bumper. I'll build and install a custom steel bumper which will add a small amount of weight to the front. I have no idea why my springs had to be cut an inch shorter than czny's. Must be the thin air up here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 ...or he Used the Other Part Number for the four Cyl. Tempo, as I did? I wonder the Reason I hadn't cut anything could be that I used the other part number, Which are coils intended for less weight, also I Bought them Used... Even weaker. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 I would imagine that both those things are true. You may have the ones for less weight. I think I have the most heavy ones you can get for the tempo. I'd recommend the lightest ones to anyone else - though I have not tried them, personally. Then we could get a baseline. After cutting these, it seems to drive well. I have yet to test them on bumpy roads or serious 4x4. That will all come with pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 (edited) Alright. All is assembled and ready to ride! Many thanks to my friend Russ for throwing the GL on his alignment table and giving it some sweet tweaks. The before and after drive were like night and day. With the toe set like in the printout the wheel hop is greatly reduced from before. These numbers are close to stock but slightly I mean slightly more negative toe, as I remember. And as a recap, this is with a 4" SJR lift and the heavy tempo springs cut to 12" free height and 2 washers (maybe 3/16" total) in front of each radius rod for caster angle. The rear is out of spec, kind of, but I didn't want to touch it until I get the rear bearings readjusted. On the rack: The numbers: We're not building a piano, here, folks. Edited June 5, 2013 by kanurys 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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