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88 DL Exxon Valdez


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16 replies to this topic

#1 Rooasaurus Rex

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 05:04 PM

Hey there,

I'm in the process of replacing everything that could possibly leak oil on my 88 DL.  This baby leaks oil like that is what it was designed to do.  I started with the valve cover gaskets... What would be on your list?  I had a recommendation to replace the oil pump.  Is there anything else that I should hit as long as I have that crap apart? 

 

Thanks!



#2 rdweninger

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 05:29 PM

camshaft seals and o-rings will leak.   Front main seal.  Maybe just a re-seal on the oil pump.  Valve cover gaskets and grommets.  Oil cap - make sure it's the right one..  Clean/Replace PCV valve and hoses.  What am I forgetting?



#3 Mykeys Toy

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 06:23 PM

rear main



#4 Subruise

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 08:16 PM

rear main only if it shows weepage. personally ive never had a problem, but it seams folks install these wrong with regularity. might as well rip the cam cases off and install a new o ring (dealer only part) on each one.



#5 MilesFox

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 08:18 PM

cam seals, cam tower o-ring, front sealsm oil pump seals. oil pan gasket. all but the rear main. easy enough to do if you do them all at the same time.



#6 ford'ssubaru's

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 08:30 PM

My dad once told me that son you won't find a better car,  referring to the 79 Brat that he bought new,  but know one thing,  all Subaru's leak,  all Subaru's tick,  but most important they all run and run and run.  I've alway liked that.



#7 ford'ssubaru's

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 08:30 PM

Love the title!



#8 Indrid cold

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 10:46 PM

cam shaft seals are very easy to do and usually the main leakers.. along with front crank... 

 

also valve cover bolt seals, they take like 12" lb. torque. 

Also valve cover gaskets if cork, smear Grey automotive silicone let it dry, install but don't overtighten bolts... 

 

There is also an "o" ring on the distributor shaft near the top... if that goes bad it will leak... but this isn't a common one.. 


Edited by Indrid cold, 23 May 2013 - 10:47 PM.


#9 rdweninger

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 10:33 AM

Don't forget the o-rings behind the front cam seals.   These are different from the cam tower metal re-inforced o-ring between the heads and cam towers.

OP... are you pulling the motor?



#10 presslab

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 10:41 AM

Separator plate!  Next to the rear main seal.  My EA82T gushed from this.



#11 Gloyale

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 12:29 PM

Separator plate!  Next to the rear main seal.  My EA82T gushed from this.

 

Non turbo(SPFI,Carbed) EA82s don't have the seperator or the vent at the center/rear of the block.  It's the giveaway when you are try to tell if an engine was originally a turbo car.

 

Reseal:

 

Cam seals, Cam end cap o-rings

Crankshaft seal

Oil pump seals, all 3 (mickey, O-ring, shaft seal)

Dipstick o-ring

Distributor o-ring

Valve covers

 

possibly oil pan, but that requires lifting the engine up a bit off the crossmember and once you reseall al;l the rest, you may find you don't need to do the pan.

 

 

I wouldn't bother removing the cam towers and redoing the o-ring there, unless you are gonna just do the headgaskets.....which actually wouldn't be a bad idea since a headset will include almost all the seals and gaskets.


Edited by Gloyale, 24 May 2013 - 12:33 PM.


#12 Rooasaurus Rex

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 05:27 PM

Sweet, guys!  Thanks for all the recommendations!  Would you guys replace the whole oil pump or just do the seals?  I'm totally not gonna pull the engine... that job is a little bit above my ability at the moment... And yeah, I know about how these old guys leak, but this one poured 14 quarts of oil in about 500 miles.  No joke. 



#13 djellum

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 05:53 PM

just do the seals on the pump, unless you think its faulty for some reason. 



#14 Subruise

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 09:47 PM

     pulling the engine is super easy. I just sold a motor to a member here and he pulled his motor by hand with the help of his sister and a passerby. where there is a will, there is a way. get on youtube, search MilesFox or "the art of subaru maintenance". Miles makes great videos and its quicker than having to wait for responses with typical q's.

   

     grab a sixer of that excuse for beer you guys have down there and watch some vids about your ea82. first time motor pull only takes a few hours. fixing/cleaning your engine/engine bay (im sure its horrible if you leak lots of oil) will be LOADS easier. less up and down to the floor is nice in the long run. do it right, do it once.



#15 rdweninger

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 10:38 AM

14 quarts in 500 miles.   That's a quart every 35 miles.  

If you are not replacing the headgaskets, you can do it w/o pulling the motor... except the rear main (which rarely leaks).

If the clutch is bad, then pull the motor for the reseal and the clutch replacement.

Don't forget the grommets for the valve covers.

Saudia Arabia called.... they want their oil back !



#16 Rooasaurus Rex

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 11:08 AM

Yeah, seriously!  I'm not exaggerating, either!  My boyfriend was following me and when we stopped for gas and was complaining about this filmy crap all over his windshield... And when we got back on the highway, it donned on me that it was actually oil spraying out of my car onto his!  Thanks for all the help!  I'll pull the motor one day, but probably not for this project.  And yes, even the 3.2 beer helps!



#17 ivantruckman

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 12:33 PM

Yeah, seriously!  I'm not exaggerating, either!  My boyfriend was following me and when we stopped for gas and was complaining about this filmy crap all over his windshield... And when we got back on the highway, it donned on me that it was actually oil spraying out of my car onto his!  Thanks for all the help!  I'll pull the motor one day, but probably not for this project.  And yes, even the 3.2 beer helps!

HaHaHa , now all you need is a smoke screen and an ejection seat .




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