Is There a Fix For This?

[JT95]

What I thought was going to be a simple snapped or thrown accessory belt ended up beiing a bigger issue when I popped the hood and took off some bolts.  Forgive me for not know the proper terminology for the part I'm referring to, but long story short the notch on my EJ22 crankshaft that holds the crank pulley has been ground off. 

 

 

 

This is what it should look like (EJ25 in my garage):

 

 

 

And, just the reference, here's the inside of the crank pulley:

 

 

 

Anyway, is my engine toast now or is there a way to get a crank pulley working on this shaft again?  (Without replacing the crank or doing an engine swap, obviously.)  I have a couple spare crank pulleys, but what can be done about the notch that is now no longer on the crank? 

 

I just need to drive this car around town for a few more months until parking it.  A frankenmotor project is in the garage that will be going in the car next spring, but I'm nowhere near being close to doing the swap now.  Thanks for any help.

 

 

info:  99 OBS EJ22

[Gloyale]

Pull the timng belt, Pull the crank sprocket.......install a new woodruff key and new crank pulley.

 

Tighten the CRAP out of the bolt and use a bit of loctite.

 

Hope it holds tight.  Keep a close eye on it for any signs of wobble or loosening.

 

That is all you can do without removeing/replacing the crank or doing a welded in key.

[MilesFox]

If the thread inside the crank sout is not ruined, you should be able to just replace the woodruff key and the affected pulleys and be good to go.

[JT95]

Thanks for the info!  Knowing "woodruff key" is a big help for looking up info.  I hate having to pull the timing belt off.  I'll google a how-to, but am I going to need a special too to remove that crank sprocket? 

 

Wish I could just jimmy rig something less invasive...lol.  I hate digging into a big job when I'm just going to park the car in August anyway.  I'm also trying to finish drywalling a room that has to be finished this week, so I'm short on time to work on a car. 

 

You all helped me out, though.  See what I can dig into soon as I get this house project finished. 

[idosubaru]

i've done a bunch of these just like this, it's not a big deal at all.  clean it up and install a new crank pulley, that's it.

no need for a key or sprocket.

3 foot pipe on the socket wrench and it won't come off.  i never use locktite either.  it simply needs to be tight enough.

[heartless]

you may need a "harmonic balancer" puller to get the timing pulley off with a buggered woodruff key, but otherwise not that difficult of a job. (should be able to borrow/rent one from a chain parts store if you dont have one)

 

take covers off, rotate engine so all the timing hash marks (not arrows) are pointed up in the correct position, remove timing belt, remove the crank timing pulley, fix the key, reinstall everything. the tensioner needs to be compressed s-l-o-w-l-y so it doesnt get damaged, and pinned until after it is reinstalled - most use a small allen wrench for pinning.

 

There is a very good write-up, with pictures, for the 2.2 timing here on the USMB.

 

main crank bolt is supposed to be torqued to 66-79 ft-lbs (according to 1990 FSM) I would go to the high end on that one, just because.

[Gloyale]

i've done a bunch of these just like this, it's not a big deal at all.  clean it up and install a new crank pulley, that's it.

no need for a key or sprocket.

3 foot pipe on the socket wrench and it won't come off.  i never use locktite either.  it simply needs to be tight enough.

 

I disagree.  Certainly you could just throw a dampner on, tighten the crap out of it, and call it good.....but it won't be good, The key really should be replaced.....it locates the crank pulley for timing. Without a key in there, it's almost garaunteed to come loose at SOME point again.

 

the crank pulley may just slide off, or it may need to have the 2 holes tapped for a bolt, then you can user a steering wheel type puller to exctract it. 

[bluedotsnow]

if you don't want to loose your refrigerant use the rope trick. when you need to crack the crank bolt loose take a spark plug out and run CLEAN thin nylon rope into one cylinder, fill it up with rope when its a the bottom of its stroke or opposite of Top Dead Center  then gingerly use a breaker bar to crack loose. if its stuck on it could bend valves but with the nylon cushion I have never had it happen to me. used this trick on several ej22 motors     last time I had my timing belt done I couldn't do it myself I found out after the fact that the guy's impact gun was several inches to big so he just took the condenser off venting my refrigerant....    

[Fairtax4me]

Screwdriver in the flex plate always works for me. Or put the manual trans in 5th gear block the wheels and put the park brake on gutentight. Doesn't work if the clutch is shot though, in which case I jam a prybar into the pressure plate through the inspection hole.

 

If you're goin to do the rope trick, make sure the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, otherwise you may be replacing broken valves.

[heartless]

Screwdriver in the flex plate always works for me. Or put the manual trans in 5th gear block the wheels and put the park brake on gutentight. Doesn't work if the clutch is shot though, in which case I jam a prybar into the pressure plate through the inspection hole.

 

If you're goin to do the rope trick, make sure the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, otherwise you may be replacing broken valves.

 

x2 - the large screwdriver or prybar always works for me, too.

[gbianchi]

starter bump