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gbianchi

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Everything posted by gbianchi

  1. Have/had 5 90 to 94 legacy, everyone checking oil on a cold engine first try is way too full, leaving dipstick out for a minute or two makes it all good. I think after shutting down some oil is up the dipstick pipe gives over full reading, pulling it out let's it go down, I don't know??
  2. Checked code 32 33 oxygen sensor speed sensor Speedo is working. Cleared code and restarted light is off tachometer is working will wait to see if it returns. Thanks G
  3. Stopped working and check engine light came on, ho hum will check code when it warm up
  4. THANKS, checked the transfer connection under hood reset and it is working for now
  5. Just like it says 90 legacy where to start engine runs fine auto transmission never had this problem almost everything else I have done to these legacy's. Have 4 at this time. Thanks. G
  6. you could try loosening your cable some before digging into clutch replacement, bought a legy with a '' worn out clutch" loosend the cable alot and drove it home and another 30k then replaced the clutch:)
  7. 92-94 legacy autos were all 3.9......nope just swapped a 93 rearend/4.11 into a 92 cause the 90 tranny I swapped was 4.11 and 92 rear end was 3.90, b0y is this fun!?????...............G
  8. I bring 10 12 14 17 19 22 sockets/ratchets, 1012141719 combo open/box, breaker bar with cheater pipes, little bfh, visegrips assorted sizes, pb blaster, gloves, a rag, saftey glasses, prying tool aka bfscrewdriver. Those knuckles can be a bear to remove, you need a 5/16 inch punch for axel pins, go threw the job in your head bring anything that comes to mind, plan then act.......G
  9. don't know imprezas, do know legacys, no you do not have to drop there exhaust to drop drive line, 1 center carrierer bolt is a little tricky but doable its best to take a good looky see to make the decide....G
  10. The epa junk I disconnected is, those 2 exhaust recycle deals on both sides of the engine, the pcv valve, the egr valve, that thing that has hoses running from it up by the drivers side strut top, any hose that connected to the carb that could be disconnected and not stall the engine, if it stalled when disconnected I reconnected and plugged, any thing disconnected was also plugged, sorry about not knowing the correct terms for these things. These engines will do just fine without all that B S, also I just did what some others here on the board have done, and now I just love my Brat again! Oh ya I should also add that I am running an EA82 distsy and coil, starts on 1 or 2 sparks everytime........Cheers G
  11. you can check each cylinder for action at idle by disconnecting plug wires one at a time, that will tell you which one(S) are not active, if you disconnect with no change that cylinder is not doing its thing, then check the plug at that cylinder, plug ok, injector suspect............G
  12. simular situation, same attempts to fix, finally replaced coil and disconnected most of epa crap, Brat is AOK now, a little cold blooded but worlds apart from where it was. Try the coil 1st........Cheers G
  13. That SUCKS! I drove my legy all winter 1 year with the dash frankensteined together till I was sure my hvac controls fix was relieable, come spring all was well so reassembled and then my wifes hvac took a vacation go figure........G:popcorn:
  14. I 2nd the fork/throwoutbearing tip, I had the same prob on an 86, turned out the fork was cracked, replaced and good to go, its a small prob that requires alot of work to r/r. good luck...........G
  15. Just read threw all this injector stuff as my wifes legwag 90 manual finally had an injector prob, knowing nothing about it, except they are kinda pricey went to the yard pulled the right side fuel rail with both injectors red tops off a 94 auto, installed the whole piece and it fired right up idles smooth as it should runs as it should, to soon for mileage numbers but no ECU swap and it looks as if its good to go, Subaru legos are plug and play............G oh ya 14bucks out the door!
  16. I was a wacker for a while, then I found a long pry bar out in the woods, the kind you would use for a winch anchor or prying rocks loose, place it between the rim and lower suspension arm and push POP wheels is off:Flame:...G
  17. try swapping in a different coil, I had simular disty swapping going on and then solved the stumble with a coil, just 2cents, good luck...........G
  18. ok simular probs whit my 84 brat, tried all sorts of stuff no carb swap though, I am now running an ea82 ditsy that fixed the starting crap, then i got rid of most of the EPA crap that fixed the sputtering and stumbleing, now I just have a small issue in between cold and totaly warm, but so much better, now I can accually drive the beast and enjoy...............G
  19. also check the cap on the fluid res that black bladder may need pushed back up, seen it many times...........G
  20. another option is to replace the knuckle with a junkyard item with the bearing already in it, just a suggestion, been there done that............G
  21. Hello to all just wanted to update this post been driving the brat allot with this ea82 distributor and I have come to the conclusion that its not just wishful thinking! This brat starts/runs awesome, long ago when I purchased it I replaced the dist with a nippon unit from a 2wd wagon, started and ran O K but just seemed like something was off, then about 2yrs ago the starting got to be iffy at best, like it would fire after letting the key snap back from start to on, but only sometimes. New wires, new cap, new rotor, new plugs, readjusted air gap, every time things seemed to be better but for a short duration. I was gona throw down 125.00 for a reman at rockauto when a coworker got me this dist at pullnsave( he stashed it in the door he bought for a 72 jeep truck snicker snicker). Anyhow all is well and I'm loving my Huey again.......Cheers to all, G. 0
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