gbianchi

Yes its running and running better than it has in years, starts right up pulls well at low rpms so far no down side. The design of this ditsy is much better, as it has a sealed bearing instead of bushings.............G

So heres a story:popcorn:, a coworker got me a used ditsy at pullnsave for my 84brat said it was from an 85suby, so I compared it to my original hitachy,which had really bad bushings, oh oh this new one has two mounting tabs, oh oh this gear is different, oh oh this one is a little taller, oh oh the wires are a lot shorter.....hummmm?? So out to the shop I go lets change the gear, no prob... oh oh the holes don't line up, well maybe I'll just swap shafts......darn holes still don't line up....swap back drill new hole, next day sunny out so here goes. Pull out the old ND that I put in years ago, slide in the hitachy, oh oh the mounting tab covers the hole the lockdown bolt goes into, oh oh the second mounting tab bangs into the engine block when you try to adjust timming:horse:. Pull it out think about throwing it over the fence, nope this is going to work, go back to the shop cut off the second mounting tab, drill/file the 1st mounting tab slot so the bolt will fit, back to the brat put it in line everything up snug it connect wires:horse:. Cross fingers, turn key and bang starts like it really wants to run for the 1st time in along time:Flame:. Time it properly and hook everything back up take a little drive and hurray it likes to go now I am very pleased:D...never give up:burnout:...............G

been there, heres what i did, glue a nickle to the door where it will hit the plunger and turn off the light, did this 2 2 legys and no more probs, good luck..G

pulll the cable, lock in pulled position with visegrip, push down on hood listen for click, hood should open. Good luck...........G

Just started the 79brat and 80brat, let them run till hot drove around a little, then shut them down. Its so nice to be able to let a subee set around for 6 months and drop in a battery turn the key and boom they start like they are the daily driver, love them little brats..............Cheers G.

Never put mine back on, been driving in deep snow, deep woods, and just around town. I like to see all that spinning belty stuff doing its job, keep your fingers/clothing outa there..............Cheers G.

I have what I think are the largest Channel lock pliers they sell, never had a filter that didn't come off with them..............G

just pushes in and pulls out, no threads. try to twist it back and forth a little at a time, penetrateing oil might help, they dry out inside and don't want to come out, if you get it out in one piece grease it before replacing hope this helps.........G

Heres a thought, if you crawl under your car at the gas tank you should see the wires that run into the tank, find the connector for the wires and test them for power, key on, thats for the pump???? the other would be for the light switch, grounding that should light up the light???? Not sure about any of this so be carefull, just a thought,:-\ electrical gurus chime in please........G

just to ty this one up, it was the MAF, replaced with used one all is well, back to driving and smiling. Thanks to all, cheers.................G

I successfully cleaned a fouled MAF from the SVX with no res break cleaner no issues since, darn K and N oil so they are cleanable and sometimes resolderable also, cheers.................G

thanks guys passing this info along.................G

I try rocking stuck things back and forth with as much force as I dare, also sometimes using a cordless drill with the clutch adjusted pretty tight but so it will still click going forward and reverse, sort of a poor mans impact gun, and PB blaster its worth it, good luck....................G

Hey all posting for a friend, he's not one of us YET! Heres what he says Its a 90 legacy wagon Maybe you can help me diagnose this problem with the legacy. Starts perfect but soon idle fluctuates some, then dies. If I am fast I can put it into gear, then punch it through a gear or two then it loses power and eventually stalls out. Each time I can restart the engine right away, and the symptoms start again. I have replaced the fuel filter, and I have cleaned the MAF with alcohol. [it did not look a bit dirty, but I cleaned it anyway.] Also I get a smell,,,,,,not sure what it is,,,,,like emissions,,,,similar to catalytic converter smell???? That only smells when I rev the motor a few seconds before it loses power and dies. If you have any ideas please, please let me know because we are in a great bind with this car down. And I said.... Hey Bill, Gregg here, never had that happen to me but, it sounds like it could be the fuel pump, there are not alot of things that can cause this type of trouble. You have covered 2 of the likely issues with the MAF and filter,the MAF failing can cause your problem they don't fail often but can cause weird issues, check all of the hoses that run to the intake for break/leakage as unmetered air can cause trouble, , the smell is a new one to me????? Sorry to hear bout Subaru troubles, I will post your letter on USMB and see what the masses have to say, good luck Gregg Lets help him outa this great bind, thanks..........G

Wow I can't believe nobody suggested this.............................................. pick up your daughter wearing your bath robe and slippers:lol:, she would never be embarrassed by the car again, just a joken or am I?...........G

HI there, nice project:), don't judge to harshly on the push button start deal these beasties are known for giving fits to the owners with the original ignition switches, like at the bank driveup when you start it and every time you let the key snap back to on it backfires loudly and dies:eek:, 3 or 4 of those and you feel like crawling under the seat:(. Some brand new really expensive cars now have push button starts.? Anyhow have fun restoring it, nice to see another one in the fix, good day to all.............G

I had a sticky one on the front, got in there and took out the pads and had the wife work the brake while I watched, moved the piston out pressed it back in, repeated this several times to unstick the piston, been good ever since.................G

I'm no pro but I have tackled a few paint projects, its allot easier IMHO to just paint the entire panel be it a hood or door or ?, blending well is a tricky wicket, just my 2 cents, good day all.............G

sounds good as written, you can save your 200. level the car as you'll need the room, ramps get it close to high enough, jack stands are your friends, regular jack is good enough, sizzor jack comes in handy for leveling purposes, racheting tydowns are also helpfull, be sure to support the engine as it will tip forward after the tranny is disconnected The axles should slide off without much trouble. Take it slow and BE careful they are heavy, I believe you can do this after rereading your post, good luck..............G

try this run a jumper wire from the spade connector on the starter to the pos/big cable on the starter, this should get it to turn over and if the key is in on should start, if its a man trans you'll need the clutch in, if its a man trans push start it? thats all I have to help at this time, good luck..........G

while diagnosing intermitant spark recently I disconnected three wires out of four, placing a new plug in one and laying it on the block cranked it over and the darn brat started....ran on one cylinder for 20 seconds or so and threw nice sparks off the one on the block, conclusion I don't need a new distsy:banana:...........G

No trouble, Treble,,LOL,, did that for 6 months w/out a problem......G

had a similar situation at one point turn out the fork was cracked, had to replace it with j/y one all better, bummer huh?................G

A billion things, nope! A leaking water pump will drip from the drivers side of the motor, when the cooling system gets low enough the heater will blow cold and overheat is next.. A leaking head gasket will perculate coolant into the overflow tank, filling it, when the coolant gets low enough the heater will blow cold and overheat is next. A stuck thermostat will prevent coolant flow and cause over heat. All hoses need inspection both cold and after heating up, as some only leak under pressure, overheat is a direct result of low coolant level, so watch the level find the leak fix and drive, hope this helps, your in the right place for help, just be patient....G

crank angle sensor, cam sensor, knock sensor, just some ideas..........G