gbianchi

O K, thanks for the input, this time I will just not tear anything apart, all though I'd like to. g.

O K new question, do/are the fans come on without the engine/ac compressor running, as in just the key on, 1st car no 2nd car yes.....boy is this fun, good thing its raining cats and dogs g oops my bad, keltik allready mentioned the key on fans on..........so whats the problem item.

Thanks guys, I'll back the worry truck up and just go with the flow, err blow g.

OK I have searched for info on this but didn't find an answer, what would cause both fans to come on immediately when using any of the 4 buttons that involve the ac compressor ac,acmax,def/heat,def. This was done on 2 90 legacys both at operating temp in the driveway on a 35degree day, on the 1st I can use these bottons and the fans do not come on right away or at all depending on temp, when they come on they cycle on/off as needed. On the 2nd the fans come on right away and stay on untill I choose a mode that does not use the compressor, the status of this AC system is unknown at this time(to cold to know) but the the compressor does run. Status of 1st AC is A. O. K. So who has the malfunction? 1st or 2nd, me thinks 2nd:dead: Thats about it for info any Ideas

cool thats good to know, I had forgoten the winter air, les schwab should send out reminder cards:horse:

O K first off, I should have been more clear in my question, but let me say thank you to that wonderful advice and inciteful knowledge tidbit about a slipping clutch needing replacement........wow thanks!:cool: Actually I was wondering if letting a clutch go that bad off would do anything unusual to the other componets involved, clutch pedel, clutch cable, clutch fork, clutch return spring, hillholder cable, pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch disk, pressureplate, throwout bearing, throwout bearing clips, tranny input shaft, tranny, driveline,....... muffler bearings, stereo,high compression fender bolts, this, that, the other thing, blah blah. Sorry for the rant there boys/girls! Something to think about when answering posts on this board, alot of us allready know what we are doing, we just want to gain more knowledge of tasks at hand. This is a great resource for information and I really appreciate the helpful info I gain here.:)

anybody ever had a clutch slip so bad the car would not move at all, 90 leg wagon really nice all round, clutch so bad it will not even move the car,what kind of fun am i in for?

sorry to hijack the post but can someone explain witch end is up, what i mean is do you crank the nuts down to go up with the front end or visa versa??

Heres what I settled with, and I love it, www.thebratpen.com/huey1.jpg www.thebratpen.com/huey2.jpg http://www.thebratpen.com/huey3.jpg

Mine did the exact same thing you described, after my own long drawnout and very frustrating version of CSI I discoverd that a spring was missing from the lock assembly inside the door. If you look inside the door, down at the latch, there should be a small spring in a horizontal position, very visable, if its not there you've found your problem:banana:. Then just find a replacement, stand on your head to get in in there and all is well:burnout:Hope this helps

Anyone with a dead 90-94 legacy have their door lock die(as in just turns but does nothing). Well heres the deal, the arm at the end that does the work has broken off the tumbler, ya bummer. Its not all bad news, if you can find a junkyard replacement you "CAN" replace the tabs in the tumbler with your tabs. This is not an "EASY" thing so proceed with caution, just getting the lever out of the door is not fun (reinstalling is even less) but then it gets easier, after you have it out you get to tear into the tumbler, take it in the house and make yourself comfy. I should note here that it has to be the same side of the car, remove the broken tumbler from the lever, remove the jy tumbler form that lever. Lay them side by side and compare and plan, now take the broken 1 apart down to just the guts, put your key in and you'll see that the key makes all the little tabs line up flush with the housing. Still with me? O.K now tear the jy tumbler down to its guts, put your key in and you'll notice that some tabs don't line up flush, they might if so YAY. If they don't, pull out the key and you'll see that they spring out a little, what you need to do is swap out the ones that did not line up flush. I should note that I got a little confused for a time during this "operation"! O K back to the fun, the tabs can be pushed out from the side that they are fush with a small screwdriver, you need to change the ones that did not lay flush with the key in the tumbler, change those and check your key if they lay flush your good to test. Place the tumbler with your key back in the housing and give it a turn, should work, if not check it for flushness again, if its close your almost done. I had to do a small bit of filing on the tabs to get it just right. Now just reassemble the lever and get it back in the door(this part sucks) and reassemble the door and go get some tylenol and go take a nap! Hope this helps someone out. G

the steel rim junkyard tool is a good idea, I have always just taken my largest pipe wrench with me when axel hunting, has always worked so far. I have yet to break my 1/2 s/k breaker bar and i've used a 4ft pipe on a legacy front axel, ended up chiseling the mother off!

just curious what are the simptoms of falling injectors besides throwing a code

I just wana know what in the world are "spark plug o-rings" none of my subees have them!

I had to use a chisel and BIG hammer to get mine off, arrrg

heres my story, my neibor who is also a independant mech sent me to shucks for 2 cans of 134 and 1can of oil, 21$. pulled a vacume on my ac for 30 min, then put in all the stuff, cranked on the ac and got 36 degree air form the vents, so I says COOL. then as the weather warmed up the ac started to cycle on/off to offten, so he says let out some of the 134, so I did, that was 2yrs ago and when its 90 outside its like 50 inside and I couldn't be more pleased. he didn't change ANY parts whatsoever, so theres my story, oh ya 90legacy 196,000...................KEEP THAT MECHANIC!

if your gona bounce it off trees:confused: you should have bought anything but a brat, believe it or not brats are way to cool:headbang: to be doing that with:mad:. Sheesh go get a honda!!

I would drive it around and see if any problems pop up, if they do then you'll have to decide what to do, if they don't then drive it till it dies. It is after all a SUBARU. Loosing a quart of oil in 1000 miles is not that abnormal.....!?

ah the simple pleasures in life are really the best:)

I 2nd the 1/2 craftsman rachet idea and floor jack with a twist, on my legacy I also used a 3inch extension with a large pipe wrench on the extension a floor jack on the rachet lifting the rear of the car off the ground. now staying out of harms way i had to use my foot on the pipe wrench and pushh untill the plug let loose, geeeesh that was tight, just snug it up on reinstall.

85 gl wagon pwr steering leaked, ran lines in loop, 45k later sold it still turning just fine. 86 gl wagon pwr steering leaked, let it leak dry, still turning just fine 38k later, power is nice but not needed. my 2cents take as you will

hey all just a little more info on this, my reman 1/2 shaft from napa only clunks on DEceleraration, but is warrantied for life so when I get tired of it enough or it blows into 193 peices(lol) I'll replace it with another free peiceocrap and keep on goin!

sorry for your loss, just for those of us who don't know what Pepe was, what was it? On the more positive note my PEPE a 79Brat is alive and well:), getting spiffed up for the classic car show in may in CDA ID.

I think the job requires some patience, kinda like waiting for answers to easy---quick---questions from online bb's