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1987 GL wont stay running


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10 replies to this topic

#1 Frank T

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Posted 08 July 2013 - 11:41 PM

Went to the grocery store tonight and my 87 GL10 (2wd wagon AUTO Trans) was running like crap. When I left the grocery store the car started up normally and I made it about 1/4 mile and it started sputtering and died. I tried to start it again and it started but imediately died again. I hit the key again, it started, tried to feather the gas to keep it running but it basicly had no effect to keep it running. Towed it home. It still starts for a few seconds then dies imediately... check engine light is NOT on.

 

Its been running crappy for about a week and thought it had something to do with the modulator on the trans (one on order). Every morning it had a hard time shifting into reverse and shifting into first and second gear. Also coming to a stop it would not shift down to first. Id hit the gas, it would rev then drop into first and squeel the tires. I'd been working the throttle to get it to do what I wanted but Once it got into third gear it ran pretty good.

 

Also a few days ago I put valve cover gaskets on it. During this process I removed the two small screws from the MAF sensor and removed it from the aluminum tube near the air cleaner. When I started the car after I was done with the gaskets, it would start but not stay running (same as my grocery trip) but if I would step on the gas it would stay running. After working the throttle like this 2 or 3 times it idled fine, but tripped the check engine light on (code 23-Air flow meter or circuit). I reset the CEL by plugging the green and white connectors together just before my trip to the grocery store tonight.

 

Anyone have any ideas what this could be?

Again the Check engine light is NOT on and the car will start for a few seconds every time, but no throttle response.

 

Thanks

Frank T

 

 



#2 AKghandi

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 01:33 AM

..........is the maf connected and in working order? that part is unclear. also, unplug those green and white connectors. those are not meant to be connected. the white is to clear the codes, the green is a test connector used mainly for setting the timing, it makes the fuel pump cycle constantly and keep the distributor from advancing.

 

check the distributor rotor, on the 87 there is a screw that holds the rotor in place, if its loose it will start but not rev.

 

 

the trans sounds like the governor gear, it will "apple core" and make the trans not shift right. the governor is under a dome shaped thing on the top of the trans.


Edited by AKghandi, 09 July 2013 - 01:35 AM.


#3 Frank T

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 07:19 AM

Thanks for the response

 

1. The MAF IS connected, but I dont know if its working. How do I test if its working correctly?

 

2. The distributor rotor is secure

 

3. I took that dome off the trans and there is some kind of valve that is held on with a few bolts. Whad does the 'apple core' condition look like? do need to take this valve off?

 

Thanks

Frank



#4 Frank T

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 07:36 AM

The test wires (Green and white) were NOT connected when I went to the grocery store (disconnected them after I cleared the codes).

 

UPDATE:

I said above that the check engine light is not on, but I think it is. The car wont stay running so all the lights are on. I conneted the white wires and the code 23 came up again... so Im thinking something is up with the MAF sensor. Does anyone know how to check of this is working or know the correct voltages on the pins?

 

Thanks

Frank



#5 AdventureSubaru

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 08:02 AM

If it won't even stay running, I'd be looking at fuel pump/fuel filter.



#6 Frank T

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 09:09 AM

I found a testing procedure for the MAF sensor and I barely get  when testing from the white to black wire and I get no change when I blow air into the tube.

 

How much voltage should I be reading when the air is blown into the tube? My service manual says the reading should change but it doesnt give a range.

 

THanks

Frank



#7 MilesFox

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 09:11 AM

Check to make sure the filamentes havent busted off the MAF sensor. Also, check the vacuum line from the vac canister to the intake that it hasnt fallen off.

 

Go through the timing procedure and make sure the belts haven't slipped.



#8 ivans imports

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 10:11 AM

stop cleanig mafs make no differece just riuns them



#9 Frank T

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 05:37 PM

Changed the Mass air flow sensor and its back up and running... thanks for everyone's help.

 

Per my question above regarding test voltage on the MAF sensor:

 

I attached the wire connector from the harness to the MAF sensor and attached the (+) lead from the meter to the white wire and (-) lead to the black wire. It tested 0.3 vdc.

THen I blew air (with my mouth) into the MAF sensor and my meter jumped instantly to over a volt.

Both tests were done with the key on but the car was not running.

 

Hope this helps someone in the future

 

Frank T



#10 AKghandi

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 09:57 PM

also as for the trans issue, remove the dome, then the governor thats bolted down underneath it. and look at the gear on the end, if its "apple cored" it will look like an apple core. if its ok it will be a normal cylinder shape if not the middle will be skinnier.



#11 NorthWet

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 12:17 AM

OP's reported transmission symptoms are more likely gummed up governor valve then damaged driven gear.  Damaged driven gear would tend to prevent getting into 3rd gear.






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