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'88 Hatch Gas Tank Removal?


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The gas tank is leaking on my '88 hatch and I need to take it out. My question is, is there enough room over the top of the rear differential to get the tank out? It almost looks to me like I'm going to have to drop the rear axle or else the tank won't clear the differential. I hope I'm wrong. Thanks.

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You're correct - you have to drop the diff to get the tank out. No big deal tho. It's only about a 20 minute job to remove the diff, and it's hanger. I've done it about 5 or 6 times now. Twice to put 4WD on my 2WD car (out and in - changed the tank too), and again to weld the diff, and then again to install a reinforced mustache bar. A couple others I have pulled at the JY because they were LSD's.... seriously - don't be afraid of it. Just use a lot of WD40 or your favorite lube, and take your time. The tank is MUCH harder than the rear drive assembly. I sugest if you have access to a lift to use it, as it will make the tank install a lot easier. There's fuel and breather lines that attach on the TOP of the tank next to the floor sheet metal. It's VERY tight under there when it's on jack-stands and it's you, the tank, and the car all wrapped up like an eggroll trying to finesse those lines onto the tank. See they are pretty short, and you have to stretch them a good deal to get them on, then you need about five arms - to hold the tank, hold the lines, hold the clamp, hold the screwdriver, and hold yourself up under there long enough to get it all tight..... not pretty but it can be done. You will agree that the rear axle is easier. hehehe

 

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Disorder, I heeded your advice, sort of. I did it on my garage floor. You're right, the diff was a piece of cake. Actually, the tank wasn't that bad. Rather than fight with the hoses, I cut them off and will probably use some copper tubing to join the hoses back together again. I remember on one of my old Cornbinder projects that's the way the guy ahead of me did the tank hoses and made the job a whole lot easier. I figure if it worked on that, it will work on this. Anyhow, thanks for the advice, it made my job easier.

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That's not a bad idea with the copper tubing. Glad it worked out for you. For the most part, Subaru made them pretty easy to work on. There's only a couple thinks that are really a pain - the heater core is one, and the gas tank isn't great either. Still - both are things that you don't mess with too much, so not a bad trade off.

 

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