10 replies to this topic

[Uberoo]

So I am getting ready to start rebuilding my subaru.I found a shell to begin again with. Anyway when I remake the strut lift blocks I am curious what angle to have them at?The plan is to put EA82 control arms/struts/axles on the EA81 front cross member. When I built the strut extensions originally it still had EA81 suspension. I angled the blocks at 7.5* and it was about perfect. When I swapped in the Ea82 suspension it was full on dorifto negative camber. I didn't mess with it because it was an offroader primarily, and secondly I was too lazy to cut apart the welded 1/4" steel extensions and start again. So for this rebuild what angle do I want for the blocks with the Ea82 suspension to have roughly 0* camber at static ride height(1.5" suspension lift)?

 

 

*the crash that destroyed my car also destroyed the lift,even the passenger side strut block bent.So for this new car I have to start from scratch.

 

 

Also would it be worth it to pull the front axles out of the wreck? the impact angled the crossmember towards the passenger side and shoved the passenger tire clear out of the body lines.Not to mention twisted the crossmember to the point that the steering rack is visible from the front of the car and bent the steering rack as well.Physically it looks like the axles might have survived but I don't know if it messed up the balls/cages/cups.

[monstaru]

GLAD you found another body!!!

Jeff should chime in here pretty quick .
As for the axles. Just take them out and physically inspect them. After all, you have time.
cheers

Edited by monstaru, 26 August 2013 - 10:45 PM.

[Vegablade]

We run our strut blocks at 17*.  Not sure if that would translate between Gen2/Gen3 but it may be worth mocking up.

[Uberoo]

I was only able to get one axle out-the passenger side for some reason.The driver side one wouldn't budge after I was able to tap in about 2"-got even with the hub and wouldn't budge after that.Even with a nut on the end and hitting it with a 10lb hammer...The passenger side even with the mangled suspension on the other hand more or less shot out of the hub after a few wacks with a hammer..

 

After all said and done today I got the front diff,the RF cv axle, and the transfer case out.Doesn't sound very impressive but everything was tweaked.I had to torch the front diff mounts off the front crossmember because there was no way to even get at the bolts,the transfer case shifted slightly in its mounts so the bolts holding it wouldn't slide out and hammering them out wasn't an option...

 

now to find a way to store the ~12 gallons of gas and drop the tank+ fuel pump, as well as the entire rear suspension and rear bumper.

Edited by Uberoo, 27 August 2013 - 02:38 AM.

[Gloyale]

I'd say about 5 degrees for your setup.

 

Not much cause with the wider EA82 track the tops don't have to "tuck in" so much.

[Mugs]

Doesn't your tank have the drain plug in it...or is it of a different generation?

[Uberoo]

The biggest issue was how to store 12 gallons of gas...not so much draining the tank. 

Edited by Uberoo, 31 August 2013 - 04:55 AM.

[one eye]

Like Nathaniel said we do ours at about 17 but IDK with that set up could do 15 some negative angle isn't all that bad of deal since the front always wants to come up........

 

 

Jeff

[one eye]

I think that ones that my buddy moose did where cut at 20 on his gen 2 wagon so 15 Might be good kind of hard to say just to eyeball it in your mind...............

 

Jeff

[Gloyale]

I think that ones that my buddy moose did where cut at 20 on his gen 2 wagon so 15 Might be good kind of hard to say just to eyeball it in your mind...............

 

Jeff

 

That's way too steep for a Gen 2......even with stock EA81 setup.....and he's got the wider EA82 setup.

 

Like I said, about 5 degrees should be all you need.

[Uberoo]

What is the minimum thickness for strut blocks TO MOCK UP THE SUSPENSION?When I can get an Ea82 front suspension and stuff it under my 78 brat the strut blocks are going to need to be ehrm creative.So I am wondering about what would be the minimum thickness of steel to use to fab them in place.Once I know the angles it wont be hard to make the actual 1/4" thick lift blocks.

 

this is not to wheel it or even move it.Just enough to support the weight of the front of the car that may or may not have an engine.