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Replacing/fixing alternator 95 Legacy


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11 replies to this topic

#1 Bushwick

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 03:55 AM

My alt has a little squeak from a bearing, though it still works. Any way to get in and grease the bearing? Even if it's a sealed unit like the timing pulleys, they can still typically take grease by forcing some in the side of the cover as they aren't airtight and it'll prolong their demise.

 

If not, I'd like to swap in a higher amperage unit as I think mine is only like 85 amps. Something like an Outback with heated seats and full power would have to be higher than 85 amp? Reason I'd like higher amp is I have an old amplifier and a 10" Alpine R sitting around, and it'd be nice to have some low end in a car for a change, but the amplifier will most like over power the alt, even on a low gain setting. What years/models have the highest rating and are either a direct fit, or work with minor mods? i.e grooved alt pulley swap, idler swap, bracket swap, etc.


Edited by Bushwick, 01 November 2013 - 03:55 AM.


#2 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 08:51 AM

Have you removed the belts and spun all of the pulleys to make sure its not the AC belt idler tensioner?
Most of the time a squeak from the alternator itself is from the brushes. Brushes aren't easily replaceable on these.

95-99 alternators can be picked up remanufactured from Subaru for about $75, and have more than enough output to run a small sub.

#3 Rooster2

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 10:14 AM


95-99 alternators can be picked up remanufactured from Subaru for about $75, and have more than enough output to run a small sub.

How can remanufacturered alternators be picked up from Subaru for $75?? I don't need one at this time, but would like to know how I can get one.



#4 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 10:26 AM

Go to the dealer and ask for one.
Or oder online.
Part number: 23700AA34A
They may have superceded this number now but any dealer catalog will show the new number. Lists at $78, 1stsubaruparts.com sells it for $67.50 with a $50 core charge.

#5 Bushwick

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 12:43 PM

^ Any idea what it's amperage is? This particular amp is one of my old ones and isn't exactly efficient when it comes to current draw. Last time I ran it was in my 96 Lincoln Mark VIII which had a 130 amp alternator originally from the factory. Even after adding redundant grounds, heavy gauge power, running power directly to alt, etc. it could still dim the lights at full tilt (talking maybe 500 watts rms). Wasn't until the alt was rewound to 290 amp that it could handle that amplifier, which by that time I'd upgraded to 2 better Crossfire VR602 amps that put out 600 watts rms each. Granted I'm not running 2 high-end 12's anymore, but the Alpine R can handle it bridged w/o issue and I don't want to cook an under-powered alt.

 

Yeah, it's the alt making the squeak. The idler for the AC was garbage so it's removed and no AC belt for the time being until it's replaced. Alt works fine though, but the squeak is from the back of the unit, if the bearings aren't greased, it won't last. Would like a minimum 100 amp alt, with 130-140 being ideal to handle lights, defrost, heat, + radio stuff at night. 



#6 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 01:22 PM

The part listed above is rated for 85 amps.
Pretty sure a Tribeca alternator is in the 130 amp range.

The rear bearing may be visible from outside of the back of the case. Rear bearings hardly fail though since there isn't much load on them. The brushes are at the back end of the rotor just inside the rear case. If you feel like taking the case apart new brushes are only about $10.

#7 Bushwick

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 07:07 AM

Are the Outbacks with full power and heated leather only 85 amp? Between running the fogs, headlights, heater, defrost, etc. gotta think those go above 85? My 9-3 has heated leather and came with a 130 amp instead of the 90, my Mark VIII had air ride so that got a 130 too. It'll parasite a little more HP, but worth it.



#8 Bushwick

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 07:21 AM

Spent some time looking on rockauto at different years, seems 100-110 amp is common throughout the 00's on 2.2 and 2.5L engines. Finally found a 130 amp on a 3.6L Outback, Legacy, Tribeca, etc. ($300 LOL) Looks like the same housing. So, if you want 130 amp guess it needs to come from a 3.6L. Though at those prices, almost better getting it custom wound.



#9 heartless

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 08:35 AM

might be worth a chat with your local alternator/starter shop.

 

just as a reference, had a local alt/starter shop rebuild a stock 85 amp alt for my car (the aftermarket "lifetime warranty" ones are junk - was going thru them at the rate of about 1 a year) and cost for the rebuild was around $145 - but - I have not had an alternator problem since...been about a year & a half now - going on 2 years...



#10 Bushwick

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 10:04 AM

^ I did some searching, and it appears the 130 amp was introduced WITH the 3.6L 6 cylinder, and was used in everything from Legacy, Outback, etc. starting in 2010 to at least 2012. I found some used ones ranging in price from $50, up to $85 on average, and considering the years, the mileage is going to be really good. I'm going to go this route. If yours eventually fails, I'd say give one of these a go. The 90-110 amp range are more common, but roughly the same price.

 

Only thing I can think of as being an issue is if the pulley diameter is too large, meaning the alt won't kick on at idle. If the factory pulley is smaller and fits the shaft, then do that. I know I spent around $300 to get my Lincoln's up to 290 amp, installed it, and stupid thing wouldn't charge at idle. The builder conveniently forgot to mention that. I was like, how is this supposed to be OK if it won't even charge at idle? The solution was to call a pulley company I found through Summit Racing. Gave them my crank diameter, MAX rpm, rpm alt was turning on, and they cut a custom diameter pulley that that sped up the alt slightly, allowing it to kick on around 600 rpm. Worked like a charm after that and had zero issues for the couple years I still had the car before selling. Had a little over 1200 watts RMS (about 130 amp draw with head unit and amps) and it never missed a beat, even at idle with everything on. 



#11 jp98

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 10:22 AM

Another thing that you need to consider if you upgrade to a 130 amp alternator is the wiring from the alternatior to the battery. 



#12 Bushwick

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 10:35 AM

Yeah, I've already considered that. Would have to inspect a 3.6L model and see if they went with heavier gauge over the 4cyl models or not. I know I upgraded the charge wire when I basically doubled the output on the Lincoln. Very easy to do.


Edited by Bushwick, 02 November 2013 - 10:36 AM.





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