Gnuman Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 OK, first off, I know it is my fault for buying the cheapest clutch I could find ($150 from AutoZone), but this thing has slipped twice since I installed it (once on hard accel, and once backing up a steep hill). My guess is that the new pressure plate that came with the kit (disc, pressure plate and TO berring, along with a plastic alignment tool) is too weak to hold the the clutch under heavy loads. So my question is What is the best clutch/pressure plate combo for a 92 Legacy wagon that I intend on towing with? I do not mind a heavy feel on the pedal, I just want the clutch to last a long time and not slip. . . So what is the best clutch for the money? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLCraig Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 Well let's not go overboard yet. I would double check the clutch cable adjustment first. Let's make sure that you have not overtightend it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted November 22, 2004 Author Share Posted November 22, 2004 Let me see. . . When I put the clutch inm I adjusted the cable "finger tight" and locked it in place. . . Works great, until you put a heavy load on it. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 How much "play" did you leave at the clutch fork; or to put it another way, how much free play is at the clutch pedal? Let me see. . . When I put the clutch inm I adjusted the cable "finger tight" and locked it in place. . . Works great, until you put a heavy load on it. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted November 22, 2004 Author Share Posted November 22, 2004 When I locked it down at install, I could pull it by hand about 1/16" by pressing on the fork, and pulling on the cable. I cannot imagine that that would be too tight. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 Sounds like you have the cable adjusted ok. I'd probably recommend just getting an OEM clutch/pp, etc. Or look into an Exedy unit. They make subaru's OEM clutches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 A clutch must have enough free play to have no pressure at all when hot. Otherwise during expansion with heat it can partially disengage. I like about 3/8 of an inch as long as you still get complete disengagement. The new hydraulic ones do this for you. Since you don't really have a clutch in Subaru specs any more it may be a lot easier to experiment with clearance than change it again. I used to rebuild truck and bus clutches and you really have to get all components within a working spec or compensate with adjustments. There is a chance you have fried it already by running out of spec on clearance, and now you know why the cheapest is not always the best. After installing a number of clutches from rebuilders that did not last as well as a new one I stick to new only now. Live and learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted November 22, 2004 Author Share Posted November 22, 2004 Is that 3/8" at the cable? I'm pretty sure that it would not disengage at that length. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted November 22, 2004 Author Share Posted November 22, 2004 Oh, and I know that the cheapest is not the best solution. I'm wondering what clutch is the best choice in terms of strength for the price? This unit was a lot thinner than the one that I took out (the clutch that had gone bad had more "meat" on it) but I guess the matched pressure plate compensated for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 have bit of clearance there. You are correct if you think that the disc being thinner is bad. This was probably the equivalent of installing a worn out clutch. As long as there is no pressure on the fork when warm you are OK even if it is only 1/16 of an inch. You want a bit more if you can to compensate for later wear. If your car were mine I would try to fit the latest clutch Subaru offers that will fit. WRX? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerFahrer Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 WRX clutch won't work cookie. Subaru hydro clutches use a push-type clutch, while Subaru cable clutches use a pull-type. The pressure plates are entirely different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 I have heard that before when people were swapping engines and I just forgot. So what would be improved and fit? The new one from the 2.5? That one is working well in my Forester since I upgraded. The aftermarket makes a ton of clutchs for these things but these days I tend to stay away from hot rod stuff on my daily driver. The reason is that I was installing light weight fly wheels and the latest hot clutchs years ago and ran into stuff like rattling from the light flywheels and the heavy clutchs being too tough and breaking off throwout forks or being too much for the clutch linkage. People still run into these problems with hot rod stuff. When I can I like to run factory hot rod or upgrade parts that work together and are well proven. I don't have the energy that Josh and some of you other guys have anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.