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I live in NY and went to get my car inspected. I have had some CEL issues with my 99 Legacy Outback. I will save that for another thread. Basically the last time my dealer worked on the car they performed a Top Engine clean. This made the CEL go away for 3 weeks.

 

To the point. My inspection was expired by the jerks failed my inspection because my E Break was not tight. At the time I did not realize how easy it was to tighten. Now I am pissed that they didnt just do it for me. By the time I did it myself my CEL was back on.

 

I reset it this morning by pulling my battery for 15 minutes. As a result I failed my inspection because my OBD was not ready. The guy told me i had to run the car for a while before they will show as ready.

 

Does anywone know how long I have to run it for. I have read that if you disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, reconnect and then idle for 15 minutes that it resets the computer. Will this do it, or how long do i have to drive it around for. I am afraid my CEL will come back on. I have been going rounds with the dealer trying to get this fixed, but right now i just need a damn in spection.

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Hi!

I live 15 Mins from the NY border in MA. I had the same sort of "ready" issue over here in Ma inspection. I"m sorry that I really don't know how long it takes! I do sort of know that the Inspection Computer wants to see cycle time (turning on and of of your car) and miles on the computer. Basically it wants to see if you had just installed a part to get the CEL off, that it actually does the job!

OBD II sucks!!

Good Luck, SubeeTed

 

 

 

I live in NY and went to get my car inspected. I have had some CEL issues with my 99 Legacy Outback. I will save that for another thread. Basically the last time my dealer worked on the car they performed a Top Engine clean. This made the CEL go away for 3 weeks.

 

To the point. My inspection was expired by the jerks failed my inspection because my E Break was not tight. At the time I did not realize how easy it was to tighten. Now I am pissed that they didnt just do it for me. By the time I did it myself my CEL was back on.

 

I reset it this morning by pulling my battery for 15 minutes. As a result I failed my inspection because my OBD was not ready. The guy told me i had to run the car for a while before they will show as ready.

 

Does anywone know how long I have to run it for. I have read that if you disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, reconnect and then idle for 15 minutes that it resets the computer. Will this do it, or how long do i have to drive it around for. I am afraid my CEL will come back on. I have been going rounds with the dealer trying to get this fixed, but right now i just need a damn in spection.

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What kind of inspection is this anyway? Is it one required to maintain your insurance?

 

 

 

Hi!

I live 15 Mins from the NY border in MA. I had the same sort of "ready" issue over here in Ma inspection. I"m sorry that I really don't know how long it takes! I do sort of know that the Inspection Computer wants to see cycle time (turning on and of of your car) and miles on the computer. Basically it wants to see if you had just installed a part to get the CEL off, that it actually does the job!

OBD II sucks!!

Good Luck, SubeeTed

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NY state has an inspection process to be allowed to drive your car. I beleive its one of the more stict inspections you will find. Especially considering most states dont require one at all. When I lived in CO they only required Emissions tests.

 

They tests your lights, check your brakes, e brake, holes in your exahaust, if you car is generally falling apart. Window Tint, yada yada yada.

 

Plus they now hook up to your computer to make sure you arent masking a CEL by disconecting your battery. Those bastards!!!

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Ouch. A safety inspection is necessary here to sell and insure a car, but once that's done no regular inspections are needed. They don't check anything to do with the engine though. You can pass an inspection here without an engine or tranny in the car. Just brakes, suspension, tires, etc.

 

 

 

NY state has an inspection process to be allowed to drive your car. I beleive its one of the more stict inspections you will find. Especially considering most states dont require one at all. When I lived in CO they only required Emissions tests.

 

They tests your lights, check your brakes, e brake, holes in your exahaust, if you car is generally falling apart. Window Tint, yada yada yada.

 

Plus they now hook up to your computer to make sure you arent masking a CEL by disconecting your battery. Those bastards!!!

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I've just been facing the same question in California with a 1988 -- last possible explanation came 'round that it's the actual computer itself that needs replacing.

 

Most people have said go to a junkyard -- try searching for "ECM" or "Engine Control Module" -- and apparently these things often are good out of scrapyards and are dirt cheap.

 

I've come across third party manufacturers in the $150 range and non-dealer (maybe remanufactured) in the $350 range; that's half dealer new price for the model I'm looking at replacing.

 

If you've already fixed and checked all the inputs -- all the sensors and relays are good, the wires all are intact and insulated except where they should be making good electrical contact -- and the outputs from the ECM are likewise electrically good, including the ground -- then do what I didn't, try to find one cheap you can swap in.

 

I can tell you, from the experience of the guy whose car I"m buying, that ignoring an ECM light on can degrade performance, clog up the PCV valve and tubing and channels, and I dunno what else. They're not just idiot lights, they're idiot _drivers_ and what they do changes how the engine works, so should be correct.

 

Note that I know nothing at all first hand, I'm passing on what I"ve learned in several days of extensive reading, while facing this dilemma.

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I've just been facing the same question in California with a 1988 -- last possible explanation came 'round that it's the actual computer itself that needs replacing.

 

If it's an '88 it's not OBD2. make sure those Cali. idiots aren't tring to use the wrong test.

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NY state has an inspection process to be allowed to drive your car. I beleive its one of the more stict inspections you will find. Especially considering most states dont require one at all. When I lived in CO they only required Emissions tests.

 

They tests your lights, check your brakes, e brake, holes in your exahaust, if you car is generally falling apart. Window Tint, yada yada yada.

 

Plus they now hook up to your computer to make sure you arent masking a CEL by disconecting your battery. Those bastards!!!

 

Well you should be angry with the dealer puting a bandaid solution and not diagnosing and fixing the problem. The sad part is that these days, in order to fix a car right, you have to fix it yourself! Peole working in dealerships I frequent are total idiots.

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I've just been facing the same question in California with a 1988 -- last possible explanation came 'round that it's the actual computer itself that needs replacing.

 

Most people have said go to a junkyard -- try searching for "ECM" or "Engine Control Module" -- and apparently these things often are good out of scrapyards and are dirt cheap.

 

I've come across third party manufacturers in the $150 range and non-dealer (maybe remanufactured) in the $350 range; that's half dealer new price for the model I'm looking at replacing.

 

If you've already fixed and checked all the inputs -- all the sensors and relays are good, the wires all are intact and insulated except where they should be making good electrical contact -- and the outputs from the ECM are likewise electrically good, including the ground -- then do what I didn't, try to find one cheap you can swap in.

 

I can tell you, from the experience of the guy whose car I"m buying, that ignoring an ECM light on can degrade performance, clog up the PCV valve and tubing and channels, and I dunno what else. They're not just idiot lights, they're idiot _drivers_ and what they do changes how the engine works, so should be correct.

 

Note that I know nothing at all first hand, I'm passing on what I"ve learned in several days of extensive reading, while facing this dilemma.

 

Hank, what you are facing is the CA Emmissions Test. Sctcrash is facing a safety test (sort of like our brake and light test, only more so. VA also has one that a car has to pass every couple of years as well). Do you need help with the Subie that you are considering? PM me if you would like me to have a look at it for you.

 

Goldfish, Hank meant a 98, which is OBD II. That is called a typo. :brow:

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