Chef

Hey there, I believe you were the one to first coach me on swapping out the air suspension a 1 and a half ago. Now it's my turn. I swapped mine out with parts from a 1990, springs, strut mounts, perches. I had the two used rear struts replaced with new ones for the 1992. The front struts were from a late 90s impreza. Basically, while the top mounts are different from 90-91 to 92-94, the only difference with the struts were the position of the lower spring perches - in other words, you most certainly can use the 92 struts with pre-92 pieces. It may adjust the ride height slightly, but that's it. But, I had ongoing problem with my suspension thereafter, but suspect the inner tie-rods/rack were going. I think though using the 1990 springs/mounts MAY have altered the overall suspension geometry though, and made for less than ideal handling. Long story short - you should have no problem using 92 parts, provided you use 92 top mounts in addition to springs and struts. Good luck! Chef

Very nice write up. This is one of the most comprehensive posts on the topic, covering all bases neatly and succinctly. Good stuff! Chef

edit - I know this was for piston slap, but I would think the thicker oil at start-up may be more detrimental for piston slap.

Castrol 5w30 high mileage CAUSED tappet sticking in my EJ22. Never had it before until I tried the stuff. After running it for a week it seemed to stop, but I changed my oil for 5w30 synth instead (Canadian Tire, supposedly made by shell). After switching I had nary a sticking tappet again.

I assume you've checked all the plugs and wires to ensure they are firing. Could be a couple of faulty plugs. Also could be a misfiring coil pack. Or could be a timing belt off by a notch or two. It can still run, but very poorly. Make sure also the air box and the snorkus isn't clogged. If you can't get air, you can't burn fuel. Put a new fuel filter on it. If it is badly clogged, it may cause this kind of problem. I'd also check fuel pressure afterwards if this persists. Could be a faulty fuel pump too, either due to a clogged screen or the pump itself. Is it running rich? Do you smell gas form the engine bay? Black sooty pipes? Perhaps a problem with too much fuel, maybe even a very faulty engine coolant tmeperature sensor. Cheap and easy fix - yank one off a wreck, and swap it. See if there is any difference. Probably not the problem though. I'd check all vacuum lines, make sure they are leaking/disconnected. There is a trick involving the use of a flammable spray (e.g. wd-40 or brake cleaner) that when pulled into a vacuum leak changes the idle I think - I'd check on that though. I'd also check out the idle air control valve, I've heard of this causing similar issues (although to a lesser extent). Not sure how/why though. Thats all I can think of, but I'm hardly knowledgable in these matters. Good luck!

Ouch - it's a rare event a HG goes on a 2.2, but it can happen to any engine. PErhaps a previous owner had allowed it to overheat some time and it damaged the gasket. Will you have it fixed? If so, it's a good opportunity to do a lot more on it (e.g. timing belt, seals, tensioner, water pump, etc). Good luck

That looks awesome! Someday maybe... I'd consider keeping my legacy and rebuilding it (while driving my new focus), but the problem is that I don't have a garage to work in, finding used 1990-94 parts are a pain here, and I am writing my masters thesis part-time while working 55 hours per week (or trying to anyways). I would some day love to take on that kind of project, but I really can't right now. I figure I could probably fix the soob up for not too much money, but in the mean time I need a reliable car for my 180 km daily commutes!

I'll still troll around here, I love the subaru company too much to disappear altogether!

All these repairs (engine aside) are completely normal for a car of this age and nothing to be concerned about. With the new 2.2 engine, I'd just drive it now and be happy knowing all those issues won't arise again after beign taken care of. Older cares need frequent repairs - it's just the way of it. It'll still be cheaper than something new.

sounds also liek you may have a somewhat clogged heater core and possibly radiator too - when the engine revs are up the water pump forces the water through bette, forcing it through instead of by-passing it. This cna happen after someone has used a stop-leak product, perhaps due to a leaky rad. I'd flush the entire system out well, and replace the thermostat. I'll bet your problem disappears. I've never once had the coolant temp needle exceed 1/2 way on my car, despite lots of driving.

What went wrong with these trannies I wonder. My 4EAT has been a fine transmission in my 92 legacy with 250 000 km - perhaps it had been replaced at some point, but I doubt it. It needs to warm a bit on the highway before the overdrive kicks in, but other than that, shifts nice considering the age.

I absolutely hate stop leak stuff, tends to clog heater cores and rads, making life frustrating. Maybe subaru's is bette, but even still... Well folks, you're going to be disappointed, but I bought a car and it isn't a subaru. I decided to go with a very mint 2001 Ford Focus Wagon. Jet black in colour, a rare 5 spd, 112 km on the odometer. PW, PL, AC, CD, fog lights, roof rack - looks very sexy. Comes with 4 brand new snow tires too! I know I chickened out, too scared of the head-gasket issue. But that wasn't the only reason. External leakage is more a PITA than a real problem. But I wanted something with a bit better mileage and cheaper replacement parts. It certainly isn't on par with subaru quality, but then again I didn't pay for a subaru. They'll be taking my soob away, probably to be fixed up and sold for nearly the price I bought it for it a bit over year ago. Well, that's if they decide it's worth fixing. Turns out the knocking noise I heard from my drivers wheel well during acceleration isn't a CV joint - replacing it yesterday made no difference, and the possiblities are not friendly. I will definitely frequent this place, and perhaps dispense the bits of wisdom I managed to absorb from this compendium of subaru ingenuity and knowledge. Thanks everyone for the invaluable advice, patience, and candour. You guys really do rock!

There is probably two bolts - one one the inside pull handle, and the other under the arm rest (or around there). You'll need to pop out the little trim piece covering them and unscrew them first. Then the panel should pop off easily. I'd take a flat-head screw driver and gently pull the edges off when it seems a little tight to pull. Be careful though, if you have power accessories in the door there will be short lengths of wire attached to them - just unclip the connectors. Good luck! Chef

Maybe...

1 - didn't know they had one 2 - Not without changing the rear diff too - probably different final ratios (95 legacy 4.11 or 3.90).

Only?! Of the seven cars I've owned I've only ever had one blow a head gasket, and it was a plymouth sundance - notorious for it, but at $350, a lot cheaper than the subes. External leaks on the phase 2 engines sound nearly ubiquitous through very unscientific google searches. Definitely making me hesitant...

This doesn't make my wanting to buy a newer subaru all that appealling... Does the 100 000 mile warranty actually apply in Canada? And would it apply to someone who is not the original owner of the car?

Hmm, that's a good advice. I suppose I'm mostly concerned about the clutch and HG, so maybe they'll give me a short term warranty on those. The power train warranty these small used dealers give is usually terrible, and requires a large deductable, and doesn't cover things like HGs.

Just came back from the shop where I had my drivers CV shaft changed - it was being replaced free under warranty. The mechanic and I took a look underside while I shook a wheel back and forth at 9 and 3. A rattle noise seems to come from the rack, and the inner tie-rods appear tight. Basically a new rack would need to be in order afterall. Rear bushings look pretty worn, front ok. Exhaust needs fixing, tons of small holes. Front and Rear quarters rusting out, were refinished before I bought the car and deteriorated rapidly afterwards. Look fine at a distance, not so pretty up close. Brakes shudder when pressed sometimes. Some excess vibrations while idling, so probably motor/trans mounts. Intermittent torque-bind and knocking noise from oil pan. But, she drives great otherwise, and I'd feel almost ashamed letting the car go. Interior looks great! If it was my second car, and I owned a house and a garage, I'd keep it to fix it up and drive around or for the wifey. But I'm barely living in one place as it is, and therefore one car is all I can hold onto. So, I will check out this car, and if it goes well, it will be mine, oh yes. NOw, a list of things to check: Oil in coolant Overheating while driving Oil colour/level Transmission fluid level Slipping clutch Rust... Suspension (lean, roll, dive) Brakes (stop ok, shudder, etc) Smoothness of Shifting Anything else anyone here care to mention. I'm a bit excited.

I should add BTW I hope to get some trade-in for my current subie, but probably would be offered only $500 - seems insulting. I'll ask them if they'll take $6500 for the legacy if it's good, and see what they'll counter-offer. If it's $7000 or less, and they'll give me $1000 or more for my sub, I'll definitely say yes. But I'm not holding my breath.

Well, for those that have been listening to my belly aching for the last while, I have run into an interesting situation. I have pretty much nailed my bad handling to either inner tie rods and/or my rack, and figure I could fix this relatively cheap. But last night I noticed a slight knocking sound from under my car, centred at the oil pan. Thinking possibly the oil pump is about to go - I have noticed with before but seems to get louder and quieter sometimes. I noticed it in a car wash bay, so it was amplified. Still... possibly a bad rod... I was casually looking at cars for sale and came across this: 2000 Legacy, 5 spd, AC, PW, PDL, Roof Rack, Burgandy, 154 000 km (~90k miles). I need to go take a look. They're asking $7500 cdn - seems like a steal. Probably not many people here in the market for a legacy that want a 5 spd I suppose. So my issue is this. My 92 legacy with 250 000 km runs good, needs the following: Used Rack - ~$150 (if I install) maybe $300 installed Exhaust fix - $250 - $400 Body work - Depending on whether I replace panels, who knows Timing Belt - $150 - $450 - Again, depending whether I do it myself and what I replace (e.g. all cam seals, sprockets, tensioner, etc). Valave covers leaking - I can live with this CErtification - $50 (if nothing else needs replacing, to insure in my province, currently insured in another province) E-Test - $50 Same as above Grand Total: $650 (Cheapest) to $1500. This is on top of the ~$1500 I put in over the last year. And it doesn't insure my car will last. 2000 LEgacy financed over 3 years (assuming they take $500 off asking price) - All CDN funds $7000 + 15% tax = $8050 8050 - 1000 down payment @11% financing for 3 years = 7050 + 2250 interest = $9300 or ~$260 for 36 mo Now this doesn't ensure no other extra repair expenses, but they should be minimal for now. What do you guys think - fix what appears to be a nice looking and otherwise well running car, or go for broke (and I mean BROKE) and get the subie?

Congratulations on the swap, good stuff. Glad to hear the heating issue was just a bubble in the cooling system. From my understanding the HGs are rarely an issue in the 2.2 engines, one of the main reasons for the swap. Good luck, Chef

Thos eoctane boosters cost a few bucks a bottle. If the difference per month is noly a few dollars, it's probably not worth it. Plus, the octance enhancers may provide a better octance level, but through using chemicals not good for long term use. Just speculating, don't really know for certain.

I put the x-tra visions in mine about 2 months ago, definitely brighter, although not extraordinarily.

Thanks for the follow-up - too often we never figure out what happens because the person never responds back - better late than never!