cam/crank seals leaking 90 legacy

[TheBigJ]

I have read some of the other cam/crank seals threads but didn't find the answer to the following:

 

Is there any real danger to driving the car with the seal blown, provided I keep oil in it? Seems like the answer is no, except the timing belt might slip, disabling (but not destroying) it.

 

When I bought the car the previous owner said a mech told him the cam seals needed to be replaced. He didn't know much about cars so he may have meant crank seal. Anyway, I am convinced that one or both of these is now pretty much gone. My car recently starting leaking much more oil in the middle of a 500 mile (round trip) vacation. I had to drive it home, and I made sure oil was in it the whole time. The puddle on the ground is small but the underside of the engine is pretty well coated, leaking out of the timing belt cover, apparently from all along the bottom of the cover.

 

I hope to get to this job this weekend, and I plan to replace:

 

whatever seals are leaking (cam, crank)

timing belt

oil pump or seal (which?)

water pump

 

The car has 260k on the clock but supposedly it had a transplant at 200k with a semi-used engine. Maybe 30k. No records on repairs and I doubt the previous owner fixed anything unless it was broken.

 

Thanks!

[TheBigJ]

So after doing some more research I am really concerned about scratching something like Blitz did. Appears that after that one F-up he learned how to do the other seals but I am hoping to avoid the F-up.

 

Blitz: if you're out there, have you noticed it leaking?

 

If anyone who has made one of these tools can send/post a digital pic that would be awesome. I am thinking I will wrap it with electrical tape or bike handlebar tape to prevent scratching at the fulcrum, but I haven't even taken the thing apart yet so I don't know what I'll be looking at.

 

I'm also wondering about using an apoxy and pieces of a coat hanger to cement some handles onto the seals and pull them out that way. Maybe too oily for epoxy to stick? Maybe too risky to get a drop of epoxy on the block wall? This would be like the drill/screw method but without the risk of abrasion.

 

It looks like I will just replace everything while I'm in there including water pump, seals, T-belt, unless anyone thinks I have good reason to leave the T-belt or water pump or.....?

[Legacy777]

You can use a screwdriver and get the seals out very easily. You have to dig into the seal, then use a pivot point on the engine so you can push the end of the screwdriver handle towards the engine, and it will pull the seal out of it's home.

 

I struggled getting the one out. After I figured this out, I got it out and swapped easily. You do need to be careful not to scratch the shaft. I also used this method with the rear main seal.

 

As for install, just use a large socket....I think I used something like a 22 or 21.

[82bratavenger]

I have found the best way for me is to use a pick tool. It looks like a dentist pick in the shape of an L on the end. The main crank seal has been the one leaking on most of the ones I have replaced. About 90% of them. That is just my experience though. i have done around 20 of them now in the past 5 years and it usually takes me about 2 to 2 1/2 hours. I use the old gasket as a cushion to put the socket against and I ususally ust the axle nut socket as it is about the same size as the seal(32mm or 36mm I can't remember right now). Good luck and keep us posted.

[TheBigJ]

Thanks for the tips guys. I am halfway through the job (lots of interruptions) and I've noticed a few things.

 

It looks like my crank sprocket was off the mark by about one tooth with the marks on the cams lined up. I plan to turn it back and try to get all 3 in line.

 

I had noticed some shimmy in my crank pulley when I bought the car. Once I got it off I notice the effect (or cause, not sure). The lower half of the pulley has worn right through the timing cover from rubbing against it. Big hole there. The L/R timing covers are messed up too, I had to pry them off as the bolts were spinning in the threaded part on the rear covers. Was able to find the inner/outer covers for the sides for $15 each (x4 = $60) but that sounded high so I didn't get them. Couldn't find a center one anywhere. I guess I am leaving them off for now.

 

My leak is definitely from the center and not from the cams. I'm wondering if I should do the O-ring as well as the seal here or just try the seal and maybe save some time? I have to reinstall timing covers anyway when I get them, so if the seal doesn't solve my problem, then I can do the O-ring. Or will I need yet another seal if I do the O-ring later?

 

The "front crank seal" I had so much trouble sourcing in town appears to be the "oil pump seal" that I was able to find. It fits around the crank in the oil pump assembly. Is there another crank seal I should be replacing? A couple shops say they had crank seals at $20-30 each.

 

Any trick to removing the oil pump? Seems like it's got a nice layer of RTV back there and I wasn't able to pry it off before dinner.