82bratavenger

McDave- ever come up with a solution for the shifting issue in your '93 loyale? I'm having the same issue in my '92 and was curious?

Looks like I am the first to post on this thread in quite a while. I too consulted GD's write-up on the swap and appreciate the work put into it. I love the swap in my brat. I am turning 2600rpm @ 80mph due to the 5spd swap and the big tires I put on after the lift . I am running 15" Toyota Land Cruiser wheels with 215/75/15 Handkook MTs. I will never run another 4spd again. Working on a bit of a motor upgrade now to help turn those mud eaters .

I have a '96 with the 2.5 dohc and the same sound. I have only had the car for about 3 months so not alot of time to search it out yet. When I was working at the subaru shop we had this same issue now and then and it was never the reason for the repair requested so we just left it alone. I know it is part of the reason for all the extra silencer piping and chambers on the intake supply tubing. I have also read something about ribs in the intake being part of the cause. I still plan on taking time to figure mine out. I have a low cat efficiency code to deal with right now. Maybe partialy plugged cat is causing extra pack pressure and noise in the intake. We will see. Hope you enjoyed the novel.

I agree being an owner of a gen 1 73hp EA81 brat. I have started a conversion using used parts as a test to see if there is a noticable difference. If I can get an extra 2 hp to turnmy 28" mudders I could use that.

If there is no guarantee of more HP or torque, why is there such a discussion on replacing the stock EA81 pistons with either EA71 or EA82 pistons? What then would be the advantage or disadvantage to the piston swap and compression ratio change. Just fishin' for ideas here other than the ones floating around in my head.

Quidam is right. The diaganal bleed is the best as the brake system is split diaganaly. I have never really had much trouble bleeding these systems and have done my fair share as well. Are all of the bleed screws flowing freely or is one of them restricted? Just a thought

yes there are EA82 Brats from 85'-87'

I have fit an EA81 with 4 spd d/r into my old 79 wagon. It did however require some creativity. The 4x4 shift leaver was tricky but a little tweek here and a bend there and a few modifies parts and it is a scream'n machine. Sold it to a friend a couple of years ago and it is now over 450,000 mi. All he does is change the oil and put gas in it. I love the EA motor. GD is right, before I did the swap I had it over 100mph several times with the old EA71 stock set-up. Why else would they come stock with a speedometer that goes up to 140 mph It is not a transmission problem.

I prefer the ea81 brat.

The welding shouldn't be too much trouble if you stick to the spot welding method and tack as you form it. If you have a master welder at your diposal by all means use him. You could always fall back on the expanding foam and pop-rivets . Just kidding however I have seen it done before.

I'm running the NGKs. Thing is it only does it when hot and only after I turn it off and restart it when hot. Also found that it is not running lean but that it is choking out from too much fuel.

Thanks for the help guys. I am trying to get my hands on another dist but funding is tight. I really do appreciate the help. Will let you know what happens.

:confused: I am scratching my head on this one...a lot. I have a 1984 carburated GL wagon that surges occasionally. Starting and running cool is fine. When the engine temp reaches operating temperature it begins to surge like a lean surge, but after a little more driving the surge goes away. Once the rig is turned off and restarted when warm it surges again but goes away and runs fine after a little bit. I have changed the filters, tried a couple different carbs, checked all vacuum lines, adjusted and readjusted fuel mixture, and several other things. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor are all good. The fuel runs at the correct psi and this problem persists. Any suggestions?

I replaced the one on my Dad's whole kit belt 3 idlers and tensioner about $125 my parts guy loves me:grin:

dad just had a cam shaft on his ej18 break when the gear toothed idler seized. Alot of torque in those little motors. I always change the idlers.

I would do as GD has suggested and run some searches of the forums and see what is already there. I am currently in my second year of auto tech classes and the 16+ years I have been working on vehicles is now starting to make sence. GeneralDisorder knows what he is talking about and is based on experience and study. Just my 2 cents. Take others ideas and do your own research.

I just put 2 1/4" from the cat back with a Flow Pro muffler and it only cost me $220. At that rate you could replace it almost once a year for the next 10 years. If I added a cat it would have only been $300 but mine was in great shape. Now it is ready for all those engine mods.

Cool, A little extra $$ never hurt. I am glad to hear that it is running great. I may run into a few bumps with the conversion on My 82 Brat but that is all part of the game right. I hope the guy before me (who put an alarm and stereo in) didn't mess anything up. I had to remove a bunch of old wiring and crap when I first got the rig. Everything seems to still be working ok though.

GD this is great. I am starting my second year of school in auto Tech and have been a Subbie junkie for 16 years. I think you have done a wonderful service to us all. IS your conversion up and running yet? I plan to start working on mine in the next six months. I will start with the SPFI and then move to building my new motor. Thanks again!

sounds good to me. How much would you charge to make a harness for an 82 Gl Brat? I can get all the other SPFI gear from the pull and save. I just don't really want to tear into the wiring with splices right now. I guess I got to do what I got to do though right.

I have an extra 1983 long block that I plan to build it out of so the head info is helpful. what are the advantages of the SPFI over the weber as far as adjusting it for proper flow and mixture? Do I have to recurve the Disty if I go with SPFI? I printed out the SPFI conversion info and am still not sure.

I recently pulled the venting of my 82 brat and from the blower duct I was able to run a small shop vac hose up into the passage and suck most all of the stuff out. After that I blew it from the other side with shop air as the vac was running in the duct. It works great now. Darn rodents.

I am planning the piston swap to the ea82 spfi ones and am also planning on using an ea82 carb intake with a performance ground cam by Delta cams in Seattle area (only $75). I currently have the carter/webber and will upgrade to the webber 32/26 hence the ea82 intake. Any oppinions on the cam grind? Is it really going to make alot of difference? I am looking for 100hp to 115hp if I can.