82bratavenger

I just finnished My 4/3 lift and took her for the first spin. I think the comment about the over size making it more apperent is right on as well as Qman in that you are building an off road rig and they just drive different. I fit 15x6 yota wheels w/215/75/15 hankook mudders on. just under 28". I now have a clean 12" clearance front to back under the rear dif.

The clip mentioned is located behind the long handle to the small crank knob just to help in locating it. You will have to push on the door pannel a bit to be able to see it. It will look like a small wire loop. This is where the hook has to grab.

You bet there are some cops who have nothing better to do but calez is right. If you choose to break the rules you got to accept the concequences. The only thing going to court does is tell the judge that "yea I screwed up and I'd like a break for admitting it." Don't get me wrong I have been there before myself several times. The fact is I chose to break the law and I got caught. Not the cop's fault.

There is a pretty good set of instructions on the hub drilling for the yota rims on http://www.subarubrat.com This is what I have chosen to do. I found some chromed steel wheels at the salvage yard for $10 ea. I dropped them off to have 215/75/15 Hankook Dynamic MT Rt-01's put on today. They will end up 27.7in tall and 8.5in wide at the section width. The rims need to have the 3 3/8in negative offset though if you go this route. I hope all my measuring pays off. We will see tomarrow.

I just bought KYB shocks and struts for my '82 Brat at my local Foriegn parts store. They are a parts plus dealer. Cost me about $240 after tax and they shipped in the next day.

What a shame! I had a '79 that I modified to fit an EA81 w/4spd hi-lo 4x4 and it wasn't to hard to do. Sold it to a friend for his daughter. My parents were original owners and I sold it at 370,000 mi. It is now over 400,000 mi and still going strong. Awesome riggs those old soobies! I now have an '82 Brat.

Setright has a valid thought as is the injector leak theory. If you have the injectors that will save you some $$$. The easyest way to start checking is to pull plugs when it won't start and see if it is water or fuel on the plug. Or just pull them to see how they are burning. Good luck and keep us posted. When it does start after sitting is there any smoke and what color is it?

What EA82 are you considering? If you want suggestions we are full of them.

I have found the best way for me is to use a pick tool. It looks like a dentist pick in the shape of an L on the end. The main crank seal has been the one leaking on most of the ones I have replaced. About 90% of them. That is just my experience though. i have done around 20 of them now in the past 5 years and it usually takes me about 2 to 2 1/2 hours. I use the old gasket as a cushion to put the socket against and I ususally ust the axle nut socket as it is about the same size as the seal(32mm or 36mm I can't remember right now). Good luck and keep us posted.

I also prefer to use both, as was mentioned below what one don't have the other usually does. It has saved my alot of time and frustration just by cross referencing the two. Just this soobie lover's oppinion.

I just finnished a 5 speed mod on my 1982 GL Brat. The only problem I have hit now is that the starter has engaged the fly wheel and will not disengage after it starts. I am using the stock EA-81 starter but I changed the fly wheel to one from an '84 4x4 so it would fit the 9" plate. Do I need to use the starter from the L series donor or do I just need to shim the stock one? Or do I need to get one from an '84 for $35 from the junk yard? Any help would be great as I plan to mess with it tomarrow. Thanks!

I am about to do the 6-lug on my 82 Brat. Just got my 4/3 lift from PK and If all My math adds up right I should be able to fit the 215/75/15 tires I want on the 6 on 5 1/2 lug pattern with the 3 3/8 negative back spacing. Of cource the grinder previously mentioned will have to be used to modify the fenders to fit.

Another note is that it is imparative to use the proper oil filter. Not one of the cheap Fram or STI specials from Wal Mart. There is a valve in the filter that helps prevent all the oil from running back to the pan thus keeping the pump from pumping dry on start-up. I am not an expert so if this needs tweeking feel free. It is just from my experience and study.

I think it looks great as well. I too am curious though what is Dupont no.7? Is it a cleaning chemical or a scratch pad or something else? I would like to get my Brat back to that High Pro Glow again

How can you tell if a 84 gl has the japan configured carb or the US? I am working on a friends and he can't remember swapping the intake when he did the motor swap. It is running realy rich and a little warm if that helps. Thanks!

Has anyone dtried Hankook MTs? I have 15" wheels and am looking at some 215/75/15's. About $95ea mounted and balanced. Any feed back would be helpful. thanks

No one can say if or when the HG may go on any car. It is all just guessing. I would go with PK and get the car fax. It should be the best source of history and probably the most reliable.

Also, just because you had the carb rebuilt dosen't mean the mechanic didn't miss something. There are a lot of little spaces in there that are not very accessable. A used carb is not that expenssive and if no change you would have a spare. Just another thought. I had a simmilar problem w/my 86' wagon and a carb swap fixed it. $50 at wrecking yard much less than $300 au.

what about bad fuel ie. water in the fuel. It would run fine at full choke or when the motor is hot enough to burn it through with the fuel. Have you pulled any of the plugs to see how it is burning? Just a couple of thoughts. This may give some pertinant info.

Before anyone gets too carried away making their own bio-disel you might want to look at your states tax laws on fuel. There was a guy here in my home area that was making his own and the state went after him for fuel taxes. Maybe he just talked to too many people and should have just kept it to him self. I think it is a geat idea myself but just giving a heads-up.

first of all is the bell housing area the sure source of the noise? I have had a similar problem when the tensioner pully on the front fan belt was about to go out. Try squitring some belt dressing or other" belt friendly" lube on the moving exterior pullies. If no change at least all your stuff is all slicked up . good luck with it and keep us posted.

You could put a removable exaust snorkel that clamps on the end of the tail pipe and could be easily removed after exiting the water. Another thought, is this an automatic or a manual? If manual how will you seal around the gear shift? Also how do you plan on sealing the doors?

Not too long ago I was readin a Popular Mechanics issue where the have a couple of mid to late 80's cameros that were street rods/speed boats. they are capable of 100 mph on land and about 50 mph in the water. They appeared stock but the wheels would retract and there was a lever to ingage a prop off the drive shaft. Anyway it was pretty cool. Go for it! Nothing a lot of duct tape and expanding foam can't handle!!

Yes Alex, It cn be done but It would take a lot of special machine fabrication and alot more $$$$$ than it is worth IMO. You would be better off doing as Snowman said and fitting an EJ motor in it.

If you get the head gasket set it comes with HG, valve cover gasket, valve stem gaskets for intake only(or was that exaust) anyway one per cylinder, therastat gasket, intake man. gaskets, and several others. I just finished on on my 82' Brat and it cost about $70.00. You will have to buy new exaust man. gaskets though cuz the ones that come in the kit are crap. Hope this gives you a better idea.