Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

4EAT switchable locking center diff Mod.


  • Please log in to reply
1 reply to this topic

#1 subeman90

subeman90

    Soobologist

  • Moderator
  • 2,778 posts
  • Akron PA

Posted 06 January 2006 - 07:56 PM

This writeup is from one of our members Andyjo. This writeup was done while he was working on his Impreza Outback. I believe you can do this mod to any 4EAT transmission (4 speed electronic automatic) but there could be some minor differences...that being said...Enjoy!



So here goes, the first task was to find the damn wire. I did it on my Impreza (obs), the two connections spoken of are located below the airbox, and a pain to get to. There are two connectors down there, the one we're looking for was the one in the front/drivers side (it's sort of at an angle), i used a screw driver to pop the connector off the frame and have better access to it. Then i figured out the orientation and tested pin 4 and 11, and bingo! 13ohms! pin 4 is GROUND, 11 is the solenoid. I figured out which wire was which i ran up to radio shack, and grabbed a switch, came back and dropped the wire bundle down under the car (car on ramps), there's alot more room to work down there than there is in the engine compartment. My soleniod wire (pin 11) was brown, i chopped it, and spliced 2 wires to those segments and ran that up into the car where i wired the switch up. I got a the wrong switch, but it still worked, i got a STDP (single throw, double pole), center off (oops). I wired that sucker up and gave it a go. If you start the car in 4wd mode the 'AT OIL TEMP' light will flash at you alot, so don't do that.
And here are the pics!
Passenger side looking at wires
Posted Image

Drivers side, the wires
Posted Image

The Pins
Posted Image

Ohmage of pins 4 and 11
Posted Image

Splice into those wires
Posted Image

Cover up those exposed wires
Posted Image

mount that switch right up somewhere...
Posted Image

#2 Andyjo

Andyjo

    I'm Not Austin!

  • Members
  • 1,808 posts
  • Windham NH

Posted 06 January 2006 - 08:09 PM

Something to look out for: MAKE SURE YOU TEST PIN 4 AND 11, in the proper orientation. the row with 1 pin should be on the bottom, so you're going to be looking at the connector like this;
4 3 2 1
8 7 6 5
12 11 10 9
13 - - -

the dashs repersent NO PINS (there isnt' a pin there), you can only sort of see that in the image. Also, inturupt pin 11, not pin 4, because pin 4 is your ground.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users