RedLance Posted October 15, 2003 Share Posted October 15, 2003 Greetings! I have been working on my 86 XT GL-10 4WD Turbo for several weeks now, trying to track down the source of no compression on #2 cylinder. It started after I torn it down to a short block, and installed rebuilt heads, and all new gaskets. It ran after this, but never idled right, and had no power until the boost came on. I thought it was a bad/stuck/dirty fuel injector, but finally, I did a compression check and found #1 and #3 had 120lbs, and #4 had 130lbs, but #2 had only 10lbs. Suspected either a bad or damaged (new) head gasket, or the head still had a crack. Removed the head, found no cracks anywhere, and the gasket looked okay too. Decided it had to be the valves. Removed the valves and found they weren't seating correctly. Hand lapped the valves, and they looked okay after that. Reassembled, 0lbs of compression. Disassembled again, bolted cam carrier to head, with head off of engine, and discovered the valves were being held open. Was told you had to bleed the lash adjusters down. Did that, reassembled, still 0lbs. #4 cylinder still has 120lbs. Does anybody have any idea what to look at next? The water pump on my Crown Vic is starting to go, so I won't be able to drive it much longer, so I really need my XT going. Thanks! RedLance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLCraig Posted October 15, 2003 Share Posted October 15, 2003 What kind of shape is the piston in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forkspear Posted October 15, 2003 Share Posted October 15, 2003 I found this a couple days ago. It sounds like the same problem you are having. http://www.subspeed.com/Rx.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLance Posted October 15, 2003 Author Share Posted October 15, 2003 Well, I haven't had the piston out, but the bore looks to be in fine shape and the top of the pistone looks fine too...I suppose I could have melted/damaged a ring, 4 years ago, when it overheated...which is why I torn it down to begin with. And if I have to tear the pistons out, I'll need that spiffy piston pin removal tool, that nobody has...Or do you guys just split the block, and pull them out the bottom? Any help greatly appreciated. RedLance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toybuilder Posted October 15, 2003 Share Posted October 15, 2003 The pistons will not come out the bottom. The castings around the main bearing journals are in the way. You must remove the wrist pins to split the block. A wrist pin remover is a simple too to make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLance Posted October 18, 2003 Author Share Posted October 18, 2003 Well, I know that on my girlfriends 81 EA81, I got the block far enough apart to reach in and unbolt the rod caps. Then I finished splitting the block, and pushed the pistons with rods, out the tops of the cylinders. I don't know if I can do that with this engine or not. It's only got 80,000 on it, so I didn't bother with trying to split the block. Apparently I should have gone ahead and done the whole thing. I guess it's been over heated a bunch of times. Might have fried the bearings too... What diameter rod is that tool made out of? Thanks! RedLance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toybuilder Posted October 18, 2003 Share Posted October 18, 2003 The method you described will work. That is 1/4" stainless rod. Purchased at the local hardware store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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