toybuilder

Also, make sure to lubricate the o-ring with antifreeze when you assemble it.

Another alternative is to replace just the center section with a rebuilt unit. You can get them from www.turbocity.com. Cost is around $350 IIRC. You just have to remove the compressor and turbine housings from your old turbo and bolt them onto the new center section. It worked out nicely for me, less work than rebuilding it myself and quite a bit cheaper than a new turbo.

What's wrong with the o-ring connection? I've never had a problem with it.

The auto to manual swap is a lot of work, but none of it is difficult. I swapped the 4eat in my 1990 Loyale turbo for a single range w/center locking diff. Every thing bolts right up. $75 is a good price for the LSD diff. I got my single range diff lock tranny for $100 from another board member here in CO. If I remember right you'll need the driveshaft and tranny crossmember from the manual car. Good luck!

I wouldn't use any of the parts from that engine. I don't think that a simple hone job is going to fix that rust. Honing doesn't really remove much material from the cylinder wall. It should be easy to find a better builder engine than that one. That one has been seriously abused.

All Ea81 and EA82 engines use the same rings and main bearings. The rod bearings are different, but they are interchangeable. The turbo rod bearings are wider than non turbo rod bearings.

Best place is your local Subaru dealer. Definately not the cheapest though. I'm not sure about the cheapest place, I always use OEM Subaru.

The torque and horsepower peaks are at the same RPM for both the ea82 MPFI turbo and the ea82 N/A SPI. Knowing that the peaks are the same and having driven both powerplants I could venture an educated guess that the turbo engine makes more torque and hp than the NA engine at any RPM. From my 1990 FSM: SPI max output: 90hp @ 5,200 rpm, 101 ft/lbs @ 2,800 rpm MPFI max output: 115 @ 5,200 rpm, 134 ft/lbs @ 2,800 rpm

I am also in Longmont. I don't know of anyone around here that has fabbed their own lift, but several have installed the ozified kit on their cars.

Here is an old thread with some info about replacing these "non-replaceable" u-joints. Read this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7542&page=1&pp=10&highlight=joint+park

:drunk: Definately no hard feelings. yeah, I know...

I just answered the question that was asked. I did not offer my opinion about the matter.

They most certainly will come out the top of the block. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21829

The rings are the same. Same rings for EA-81 too. Some of the gaskets are different though, specifically the intake manifold and head gaskets.

This has been covered many times before. The search function sure is handy. Read this old thread for some ideas and a picture of a very simple wrist pin tool that I made. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10685&highlight=piston+tool Good luck! Regards, toybuilder

I have removed and reinstalled the oil pick-up tube on a few ea-82 engines. The method that works best for me is to use a hammer and a chisel and drive the pick-up tube out of its bore from the base. I have never damaged the tube to the point that it was not reusable. This method works best with the engine out of the car.

Don't use those little o-rings that come with the that camshaft carrier seal set. You will be sorry, they will fail. Those are standard o-rings. This is not the same type of seal that you will get from SOA. If you get them from Subaru they will will have a metal strengthening ring in the center. That is the only seal used on the camshaft carrier, it is for the main oil passage. Use Permatex Ultra Grey on the rest of the mating/sealing surface. Regards, toybuilder

The turbo charged Loyale was only available in 1990. It was also only offered with the 4 speed automatic transmission. I have one, but I swapped the auto out for a full-time 4wd 5 speed diff lock transmission.

It can be done without splitting the case. After removing the wrist pin you can turn the crankshaft and the con rod will push the piston up, turn the crankshaft all the way around, and the piston will stay at the top and the rod will come back to the bottom. Now put the wrist pin back into the rod and the turn the crankshaft again, it will push the piston far enough out of the block that you can get it out. Repeat the process for each cylinder. I hope that that makes sense. It will work. You wont need the ridge reamer. Good luck. Buy Quality gaskets.

I don't know the answer to you question, hijacker. Are you planning on attending this meet and greet? We could caravan down there. Any word on those 4 spoke alloys? I will be needing new tires soon.

That is not a bad price. They usually sell for $100-$150 + shipping here on the board.

What??..... A collision occured because some guy falls asleep at the wheel and you start talking about SUVs being at fault......

All EA82 engines use the same type of oil pump. The EA81 pump is different. Look at the list of pumps again. The information for the third item on that list must be incorrect, but notice that all of the part numbers are the same for EA82 engines. The EA82 pump listed will work with your carbed engine.

Yes there is a high output pump available for your engine. Try this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6294&highlight=high+volume+oil+pump

I am guilty of lurking and not posting in this thread. If the time and place are right I'll be there. Red Rocks sounds like a good place to meet up.