toybuilder

I posted a three part write-up with pics on my ea82t rebuild. Here is the link to part three. It has links to parts one and two. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9737 Good luck!

Look at this old thread for some ideas. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6850

Here is a picture of the tool that I made: You can borrow it if you want mr. the sucker king. Insert it all the way through the wrist pin, let the hooked end catch the far edge of the wrist pin, and tap it out with a hammer. Very easy to make and pretty effective too.

Gregg, I have some aftermarket intake manifold gaskets, still in the package. You can have them if you want. I will mail them to you. Let me know if you want them. When you take it apart, make sure that the lower turbo coolant hose is the heat shielded OEM part. I replaced the one on my wife's turbowagon with a section of hose from NAPA, it promptly blew out, and I had to replace it a second time. The second time I used the genuine Subaru part, no problems since then. The previous owner of the car said that he replaced the hose, but I suspect that he probably did not use the genuine Subaru part. I'm glad to hear that you figured out the problem. Good luck. toybuilder

That O-ring doesn't hold anything together, it's just a seal. It's the bolt that secures the other end of the tube to the block that is holding things together. It is in all respects an adequate design.

If it's a Subaru engine that you are looking for, why would you want to buy it from anyone besides CCR?

The joints are replaceable by a do it yourselfer. Read this thread.

I think that you might find an answer here: in the USRM

You'll need exhaust gaskets and intake manifold gaskets. Did you get the installation kit from CCR? How are your radiator hoses? What about your fan belts?

Those cracks look fine, I've used worse. Gen 3 heads really only addressed the issue of cracking where the exhaust runners come together. If you are putting new rings in, make sure you give it a fresh hone. Even though you can still see the original cross hatch, it won't have enough bite to properly seat the rings. Good luck.

This is the one that I made: As for sealant, I also use the Permatex Ultra Grey. It was recommended to me by Rick at CCR Inc.

Properly installed, OEM valve cover gaskets should not leak. They are not intended for use with any type of sealant, it is a floating design. They don't come from the factory with sealant, and it does not recommend any in the FSM. I have never used any sealant here. The only oil leaks that I have had come from between the cam case and the head. I also install the cork oil pan gasket dry. Some people suggest soaking it in water first.

I believe that we are speaking specifically about a Subaru EA82 overhead cam engine.

There are many different schools of thought about breaking in a new engine. Mine: Drive it respectfully for the first few hundred miles. Don't baby it but don't hammer on it either. After I start it for the first time I usually let it idle until it is at operating temp, then I time it. Like calebz said, you have to let it idle to set the timing. Letting a new engine idle is fine. I am in Longmont. I might be able to lend a hand, if you need it.

I have put about 200 miles on it now. It is running nicely, but I have a few issues. I might need to put a little more tension on the driver side timing belt, as it is whining a bit, and the timing seems to skip around a little bit. I also think that the TPS needs to be adjusted, because the engine surges when the throttle is opened just past the idle position, at any speed. Open it up a little more or let off and the surging stops. I drove it on the interstate yesterday, I hit the 75 mile an hour speed limit while still on the entrance ramp. That is a first for me in a Subaru! Way more acceleration than I expected, that little turbo spools up incredibly fast. It is nice to be able to keep up with traffic.

As far as I know CCR does not sell kits, only complete assembled engines, and shortblocks.

I have rebuilt two of these. One SPFI and one Turbo. I can tell you that if you use the same quality parts as CCR, you will find that they have a very good price. Also, consider their generous warranty. The only reason to do it your self is for personal satisfaction. If you don't really enjoy doing this kind of work, you are in for one hell of a project. Some things like cleaning up all the parts of your old engine are very time consuming and downright suck doing. You will not save much money, if any, especially if your time is worth anything to you. Next time I will buy an engine. As for finding a rebuild kit, I would suggest purchasing your parts from multiple sources rather than looking for a kit. All the info is here, try searching again. We have discussed it recently. I can point you towards a few threads where engine rebuild parts have been discussed. Try reading these threads first. Then try searching for stuff like "turbo rod bearings", "gaskets", "oil pump", etc. Or, you could search the older generation forum for my username. Good luck.

I wonder, how many pints did it take? I wasn't paying attention. Probably spent more on beer than parts though.... Thanks to all who helped out with info, parts, etc.

Part 1 Part 2 Ready to go in: It's finally in! The car has been in the garage for nearly a year, but now it has a rebuilt engine (all stock), a rebuilt turbo, and I swapped out the 4 speed auto for a full time s/r 5 speed. The result is a really fun to drive car. I am suprised at how fast this thing is....well fast for an old Subaru anyway. I just need to get my rear sway bar and LSD installed, and some new tires and I'll be done with this one.

The instrument panel would not fit between the steering wheel and the windshield, hence the removal. Try for yourself you might have better luck. The FSM suggests the removal of both the steering wheel and the steering column. I found it easier to remove the plastic and the wheel rather than the entire column, like you mentioned moosens. My personal opinion. I have stripped down several of these cars myself, and I'll have to admit I was a little nervous, stripping the interior of a daily driver down that far. Usually it's much easier to take apart than put back together, fortunately things went together very easily this time.

I just changed the heater core in my wifes '90 Loyale turbo last night. It took about six hours, start to finish. I cleaned up some "shade tree" wiring while I was in there, too. Intimidating at first, but actually very straightforward. Those are the only pics I took. Feel free to email or PM me with questions, or my phone # if you need some help. Don't let them scare you, it's really not that hard. Good luck!

Glad to hear that you figured it out. Thank you for sharing your experience.

I would also suggest using the Permatex Ultra Grey, for the block halves and the cam towers.

General Disorder, does what you "got" include any Subaru limited slip diffs? Redline is good stuff.

What kind of lube are you running in your LSD? Did you purchase the genuine Subaru LSD oil? Are you running regular gear lube? Synthetic? Limited slip additives? Any opinions from anyone experienced in the matter would be appreciated. Thanks.