toybuilder

I emailed you about purchasing a lift kit some time ago. If there is a better way to get ahold of you, please PM me. I am ready to purchase a lift kit from you. Thanks

I agree local dealers suck, for the most part. I approached a local dealer with a quote from http://www.1stsubaruparts.com to see if they would "compete" with the prices... they laughed at me... "full price is what you will pay here", they told me.

Hmmmmmmmmmm.... that is funny.... EA82 head bolts are M11 x 1.25. I would be surprised if yours was unique. M10 and 11 are very close, and with the same pitch, I can see how someone could mistake them for one another. Here is an EA82 head bolt, from a random EA82 engine, with the "appropriate" die screwed onto it. You can clearly see M11 and HSS stamped into the die, although you can't see it in the pic, it also says 1.25.

I don't know what size heli-coil that you need, but the head bolts are M11 x 1.25. My guess is... that is the size heli-coil you need. Fornutaley I have not had one pull free yet.... Good luck. I would get a new head gasket.

FWIW, I use the Permatex copper spray stuff. I don't retorque the bolts. You're right a major pain with the cam towers on.

The method you described will work. That is 1/4" stainless rod. Purchased at the local hardware store.

Thanks for the tip, Zapar. I still plan to buy the BYB kit...

I am picking up a welder next week with the money I was going to use to buy the ozified.com kit for my ea82. I would buy the kit but they have not responded to my email. :cornfuzz:

No timing belts on an ea81.

The pistons will not come out the bottom. The castings around the main bearing journals are in the way. You must remove the wrist pins to split the block. A wrist pin remover is a simple too to make.

The castings are identical, but the machining is different. You can bolt either head on either side. I know because I have done it wrong before....

They told me NO, on the r160 version up front. Custom part # for our front diff, but no problem for "any" front diff they claim. Guess we won't know for sure until someone ponies up the cash and installs it....

Well, I can't make a guess about your horsepower, I was wondering where you found oversized piston? Genuine Subaru parts?

It means that you can select high or low range 4wd. The loyale only has the high range. Not as good for offroading.

The main difference is that the Loyale was not available with a D/R transmission, which was standard on the Gl. Also, the GL has the black corners on the tailgate.

I am from Casper. I have lived in Colorado for many years now though. I still have many friends in Casper and visit from time to time. hey Capman2k: http://www.thriftynickelads.com

http://www.phantomgrip.com http://www.turbomagazine.com/toc/ The Phantom grip article is not available online though.

For those of you interested in the Phantom Grip limited slip unit there is an article in the November issue of Turbo magazine. The article details the installation into a FWD car. Seems like they like the thing. Kind of expensive at about $349 for a custom unit, but very interesting. They will make one for our front differentials. Anybody planning on getting one of these things? I know it's been discussed here before.

http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f35c591bdc2e0.78531895/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f3c6066e8a2e3.96127804.art

Haven't made any progress lately because I had "some issues" with one of my lifters and had to order a new one. I dropped it and the cap popped off of the top. I used a center punch to restake the cap, but I don't trust it. Since everything else is done right so far..... $41.21 + shipping from http://www.1stsubaruparts.com

I always use a little of the Permatex copper spray on head gaskets. Although someone from this board (Cameron) pointed out to me that copper and aluminum react chemically, I still use the copper spray. A trusted mechanic friend recommended it to me. Also, I torque the bolts to 51 ft/lbs and skip the retorque that the manual suggests. Good luck!

I believe that your transmission will die a certain death. It won't stick to the gears well enough to properly lubricate everything inside the transmission.

Miles, I do torque the bolts in three stages. I just meant that I don't do the retorque thing. I used Genuine Subaru turbo head gaskets. I am still not sure what viscosity oil to run, this is my first Subaru turbo engine. Any recommendations, Skip? Thanks

A lot of GL-10s have rear sway bars too. As mentioned above, the main thing that you besides a sway bar are the rear control arms.

Last night I installed the cylinder heads. Factory torque spec is 47 ft/lbs for the head bolts and the FSM says that you must retorque the bolts after the first warm up of the engine. I torque my head bolts to 51 ft/lbs once and never worry about it again. Read Part 1 Here