RedLance

Okay, so do you think I could make an EA82 tank work in an EA81 car? As long as it's a wagon tank and I'm putting it in a wagon?

Greetings, My son is fixing up a 1982 GL 4WD wagon, and is in need of a new/different gas tank. It sat for years and the tank is all rusted, twisted off several sending unit bolts and it even had a mouse nest inside. I can find new tanks online but only for 1985 and newer. Anybody know if they will fit? The Spectra Premium SU1A looks like the right tank except the sender is on top instead of on the rear. Thanks for any insight! I also have numerous parts to trade if someone has a useable tank.

Ok, having LOTS of trouble with my in law's wagon. 1982 Wagon, GL 4wd D/R, with A/C, no PS, with both california emmisions and high altitude modifications, according to the underhood stickers. Hitachi carb. 7-10 years ago, it overheated on the side of the road. About 6 months ago I put all new gaskets in the engine, and then discovered the problem was rusted out "freeze plugs" in the heads. Replaced those too. No fuel reaching the carb. Replaced the fuel pump, and the under hood filter. Drove 15 miles with no trouble, other then a dry rotted tire flying apart. Left for a 60 mile round trip to the next town over, and it won't idle. When I take my foot off the gas, it will either die, or run at somewhere over 2000. 45 miles into the trip, it acts like it's running outta gas, then dies. Tank is full though. Let it sit a few minutes, starts back up, and makes it another mile, then does the same thing. Towed it home. Removed, disassembled cleaned and rebuilt the carb. Reinstalled it and it still won't idle right, but it made the same 60 mile trip no problem. Futzed around with trying to get the idle right tonight. Set the timing by ear, and it ran better. Wife took it this time. Started doing the same running outta gas act for her. I'm not sure I have all of the vacuum hoses connected correctly, and I can't find a diagram that actually looks like this engine. I spent a good 2 hours checking them over today with my Haynes book, and everything looks right. What the heck am I missing? Crud in the gas tank? But what about the idle? Oh, also, when I started it up today, which is after the carb kit, and after one succesful 60 mile trip, it ran like crap for a few minutes, then suddenly cleared up. Crap being like it's missing on one cylinder or something. Then, as if a switch was thrown, it cleared up and purred like it should. I'm gussing some thermo switch tripped. Help please, I'd like to have some hair left when I get done. Thanks! Brian

Well, I don't have pictures, but back in 1993, my 1980 Brat hauled a Ford 360 V8 (650lbs) and it's C6 automatic transmission, plus a set of leaf springs from a 1960's 2 ton grain truck. Went about 15 miles with that. It was squatted pretty well.

Assuming Miles was talking to me, yeah, I think I could make arrangments to pick it up at the Iowa meet. That Friday would be better then that Saturday or Sunday for me...if possible...Monday would work too. Thanks! RedLance

Where is Miles headed from CT? Any chance he could bring that tranny down here to me in Nebraska? Moosens has it up there is CT. How close will Miles be to Nebraska? I might be able to meet him someplace. Thanks!

Damn...and I was going to bring my XT6 and one of my XT Turbos...but I have to do crowd control for a Czech festival that weekend... Oh well, I'll show up next year then. RedLance

I'm along I-80 in Nebraska, if you're coming through here. I can't offer floor space, but I've got tools and yard to spare. RedLance

First off my answer would be no. I'm trying to unconvert all my XTs and my XT6. As in, I want to get them back on air suspension. I have the factory shop manuals that cover the system. Let me know if you want diagrams or anything... If you do decide to convert it to regular springs, could I somehow obtain your 3 front air struts? The ripped one, and the 2 "good" ones? I have other cars to drive while I get my air suspensions sorted out. I have 3 XT's and an XT6, and all are supposed to have air. One XT was converted, and dosen't sit right, the XT6 has air rear, and spring front, and the front is too low. Oh, and the compressor is missing off my red XT. I'd like your compressor too, if you convert it. Thanks! RedLance PS, I'd like that ripped one any which way, if I could. I'm researching some ways to use aftermarket air bags/springs in place of the $400 factory units.

Well, mine is now ticking more then ever. Haven't driven it much lately, as I got a company van to drive. It's still got the Mobil 10-40 and MMO in it. It will stop ticking intermitantly, then it sounds like only one adjuster is ticking, then 2 or more... I've tried several parts houses here, and none of them can get an oil pump for the XT-6. Is it the same as the XT-4? I'm assuming it's not... I might have to hit the dealer...My pressure is still way too low. The highest it ever gets is 45psi (with 10w-40 and MMO), at idle it's somewhere between 0 and 3psi. Will keep ya posted. RedLance

I'd like a set of cast ones...but I could see aluminum potentially having the same problem as the plastic ones. You could cut threads right into the aluminum, but I have striped out my fair share of aluminum threads. Would steel (stainless steel?) inserts work better in the aluminum then they do in the plastic? I'd sure hope so...Could always use Heli coils too, I guess. RedLance

Just throwing in my support too. I'll take a subscription, and add my vote for a reader's rides section. RedLance

Okay, I forgot to take a picture this morning when I got off my 12 hour shift at work, but I did look under my hood tonight, before I came back to work. My O2 sensor has only 1 wire, it goes into a balck, 1 position connector, which mates with another black 1 position connector, which has a yellow wire coming out of it. This wire is all by it's self, until it enters the black plastic loom, between the 2 big harnesses that lead to the engine. The yellow wire goes into the loom, heading twords the firewall. I also noticed that I have 2 connectors, each with about 5 positions, just hanging loose from the same loom. I will write myself a note so I remember to take a picture when I get home. RedLance

Well, since I own an 85, and 86, and an 87.5, all XT Turbos, I feel quilified to answer this. It depends on where the leak is. If it's just a gasket, then NO, you DO NOT have to lift the engine. If the cross over pipe actually has a hole in it, then you might have to. Depending on how talented you are, you might be able to wrestle the pipe out with out lifting the engine. I know it would a whole lot easier to do if you removed the 2 nuts mentioned above, and jacked the engine up a few inches. The problem comes when you try to get the turbo end of the pipe, down between the engine and the front cross memeber...it gets to be a tight squeeze in there, with the big turbo flange on the end of the pipe. Hope that helps. RedLance

Just relating my recent experiance. My "new" 89 XT-6 came equiped with low oil pressure and a mild tick. First oil change I put in Castrol 20w-50, and the tick got worse, and the pressure didn't come up. Night before the MidWest "Mud" Meet, I replaced the oil pump seals. Only got the MM and the big O-ring. I couldn't get the pulley/sprocket off, so I didn't do the shaft seal. Pressure came up just a tad, idle is still about 2psi. Ticking is getting worse. about 5-700 miles ago, I tried the tranny fluid trick. Added a quart to the engine, and ran it for about 10 mins...help a little. I also went back to Mobil 10w-30, ticking was slightly better, oil pressure still low. A few days ago, I poured in a whole quart of MMO, along with a can of engine oil stop leak (seal reconditioner) Ticking is now gone! Even with 2psi idle oil pressure! Of course, we'll have to see if it comes back in 1000 miles when I change oil again and leave out the MMO. I also added about 8oz of MMO to the fuel tank...I've got a slight hesitation problem too... Anyhow, I'm impressed so far. I've only got about 100 miles on the MMO at this point. RedLance

I'll take a picture of mine as soon as I get home in the morning. Mines an 89. You want where the O2 sensor plugs into the harness? RedLance

Just a couple things. If the front seal on your compressor isn't leaking, then it's usually an O-ring. There are O-rings at every hose and line connection. Typically, they fail first. Also, whenever you convert to R134A from R12, you need to change the receiver/drier. They used 2 different kinds of dessicant in the driers. The older kind is NOT compatable with R134A...so, for about $25, it's best to get a new, R134A compatable receiver/drier. RedLance

Congrats!! I've got 3 of them, and know exactly how you feel. There are plenty of others here, who also know about them. You should be in good hands. RedLance

You can flush out the system your self. You need what is called a flushing gun, and some flushing fluid. The fluid is reusable. The flushing gun consists of a cylinder that you put the fluid in and then pressurize with an air compressor. Then it has a normal blow gun, that you stick into a port on whatever part you are flushing. DO NOT flush the evaporator(that's the coil inside the car, the condensor is in front of the radiator.) unless you remove the expansion valve first. It's a good idea to get new "barrier type" hoses when you get a new receiver drier. R134a refrigerant molecules are smaller then the pores in the old rubber hoses, and they go right through, although, most people don't change the hoses, and they work ok, apparently because the old oil has coated the inside of the hoses, preventing the r134a from leaking through. New O-rings should always be used. You should be able to get them at most any auot store. Remove all the old ones and take them with you, so you can match them up to the new ones. Every connection will have at least 1 o-ring, sometimes 2. So you will have at least 1 at each end of the condenser, each side of the drier, both compressor outlets, and both ports on the evaporator, and then I believe you will also have a couple on the expansion valve, which is under your glove box, connected to the evaporator. So, you should have a minimum of 7 o-rings, probably 8 or more, including the expansion valve. And the drier, you should also be able to get at a parts house, it's really only the R-12 that is a restricted sale item, not the hardware... If you flush out the whole system, you don't really need the "kit" from Wal-Mart. Just get an 8.5 oz can of R134a oil, and about 4 12oz cans of r134a, a charging hose, and the fitting adaptors...should come in just under $30, I think. You can use the kit if you want, that will work just fine too. Only difference is each can of r134a in the kit, has 2oz of oil already in it, so you don't need the seperate can of oil. Or, if you prefer, you can get a bottle of oil at a parts house, and just pour the right amount into the intake port of the compressor, just before you charge it with r134a. Lot's of info, I know. I spent many months crawling the internet and reading up on auto A/C systems, and r134a conversions. Need any more info, or clarification, just ask! RedLance

A/C compressors frequently leak from the front seal. I'm sure you can get a replacment seal for it. Check with an A/C supply store, or a shop that specalizes in automotive A/C...they can probably order the seal for you. If you don't have any luck, let me know all the numbers off of it, and I'll try my guy here in Lincoln...he seems to be able to get just about anything for auto A/C. RedLance

Yeah, I had my 89 XT-6 5spd FT4WD, that I recently aquired. I thought somebody got a pic of it at the state park, but I don't see it anywhere. I didn't take it on the drive to the cemetary, as the whole family wanted to go and wouldn't all fit in the XT-6. Apparently nobody wanted a picture of my van...it's a 96 Chevy Astro, 2WD, 4.3 Vortec, 4sp auto. RedLance

Please let me know where to send money. I wanted to give Russ some as well, but wasn't sure I'd have enough to get home. I will also chip in for Ian and the boys even though they didn't end up making an attempt on my van, I still appreciate their willingness to do so. Keep me posted on the road repair cost as well, when we find out what it is, I'll chip in on that too. Are we just going to use the board's paypal account? Or will we set up a new account for this? Lemme know. Thanks! RedLance

As long as all of the connectors for the compressor are dissconnected, you can use the A/C setting without damage. If the system has no refrigerant in it, you shouldn't be able to hurt anything anyway...although I just fried my compressor and it's clutch. There is a leak in the hose, that the previous owner told me about. I recovered any refrigerant I could from the system. The clutch went up in smoke today, as apparently when he re-wired the passenger side radiator fan, it also is feeding voltage back into the compressor clutch, and making it stay on all the time. So now my compressor seized up, since there is no oil in the system, and then the clutch fried. Anybody removing their compressor? I'll take it off your hands... RedLance

Oh I almost forgot, EyeSore and the Trashwagon both drove out with no help at all. Subiemech85's wagon, really only needed to be pulled up onto the road, then Miles drove it on out. The rest were all pulled the full mile back to pavement. I had Shawn's BRAT running, and was able to assist the tractor. I didn't try real hard, as we didn't want to hurt the BRAT anymore. So, as far as I know, the only one left is the guys FORD, which by now will drive out, once he fixes the power steering leak. RedLance

Okay, here is my post. Myself and my family are all back in Lincoln, safe and sound. There was absolutly no damage to my van. The last I saw of Matt and his Legacey, he and Kurt were still cleaning about 400 pounds of mud out of everywhere. Last I saw of the Trashwagon, it was still sitting at the pavement end of the dirt road, with the key in it. There were NO citations issued. The farmer/cop did not charge us for extrication, however, he said he would appreciate a "care package", since diesel and his time are not free. I think Kurt got his info for that. And he didn't bring his CAT tractor, as it was 8 miles away...he brought a "smaller" 2WD Massey-Furguson, and it did just fine. No one would believe how much that road dried out in just one day...it was rather amazing. More if I think of it. Looking forward to the next meet and great! Oh, and Kurt left the campground a little after 5pm I think. His BRAT seems to be fine as well. RedLance aka Brian