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Exhaust Q.


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18 replies to this topic

#1 ru4x4ever

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Posted 28 November 2003 - 09:36 PM

I need to replace my exhaust gaskets on bottom of motor/ exhaustmanifold and one side is cross threaded or just seized up and are probly going to brek off . Can i use the other set of holes ajasent to those they look the sam distance across?:cornfuzz:

#2 myossfeece

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Posted 28 November 2003 - 10:18 PM

yo yo yo what it is muther fyorkers? On my four door it has an aftermarket exhaust on it with spinnable flanges on it. if the one bolts break off or stip out you can use the other holes they have same threads, and depth as the stock holes that are stripped, broke, etc. so to answer you q yes you can use other holes. good luck with your soob.

#3 MilesFox

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Posted 28 November 2003 - 11:08 PM

yes, the other holes can be used. i would recommend installing studs, with thread locker on the head end, and anti-seize on the nut end

#4 ru4x4ever

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 03:20 AM

Thanks FOX and Sedan-the-man for your reply and info on my time of need you guys:headbang: :headbang:

#5 MilesFox

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 03:22 AM

the thread is m10 1.25 the shank being 10mm wide, and 1.25 threads per mm
you can also tap out the holes wit a starter tap and a bottoming tap
7/16 14 thread. 7/17 dia. and 14 threads per inch
TomRhere invented that trick

#6 Qman

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 03:45 AM

The holes are the same distance and size. But only if you are using an exhaust that has been custom made with loose flanges. They won't work for the stock Y-pipe because the flanges are fixed.

If it breaks you can drill out the bolt and use a heli-coil kit.

#7 ru4x4ever

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 03:49 AM

Q-man how would i know if it was a stock y or a non stock y? from where my cat was back is all new(custom) but off the motor?????

#8 MilesFox

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 03:53 AM

if recall i have seen studs opposite, at least on zanny dook's wagon the stud is on the other hole, and the pipe has a notch ground in the flange to fit around the stud. the pipe is right, as it fits on my wagon
it must be an odd stud, or it must be a same-side head as the other head, its the only one i have seen like that, it was that way when we got it

the turbo cross-pipe has the studs opposite that of a regular pipe

#9 ru4x4ever

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 03:58 AM

No mine just has open threded holes and no notches in the flange that i can remember from looking yesterday

#10 Qman

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 04:00 AM

If the flanges are welded or fixed on the exhaust pipe then chances are it's stock. If you check the y-pipe and see that it loks to be pieced together it has probably been replaced. That was the way most exhaust shops reattached the catalytic converters.

Miles, yes, the other holes do get used by the adapter for the ASV and the turbo cross over pipe. They are not used by the stock y-pipe.

#11 ru4x4ever

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 04:06 AM

Where i got my exhaust done he just took out my cat for me.Shhhhhh but ill just use some (ALOT) of super-penatrate before hand and hope for no breakage and if so it will only set me back .5 hour to drill and heli-coil. but if you guys have any other ideas feel free to share.:D

#12 Qman

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 04:12 AM

That's the only way I do it. Others have oversized the hole and used a standard bolt.

#13 MilesFox

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 04:14 AM

if the nut turns, but wants to hang up, work it back and forth, back on a thread or two, off a 3 threads, on 2, off 3, will help take the rust off the thread.

usually the nut will turn so far befare it catches all the rust and begins to take the stud with it.

if the studs DO come out, get new ones. to install them, thread 2 nuts on the END, lock them together. then use the nut farthest on the end with a wrench to turn the stud in. then use 2 wrenches to unlock the nuts,and then proceed to install the gasket and pipe.

the thread locker will prevent the stud from coming out the next time, and the anti-seize will let the nut come off before it wants to take the stud with it.

but sometimes a rusty stud will take the aluinum thread wit it, tearing it out as it goes. if you see aluminum on the stud if it comes out, re-tap it with 7/16 and use 7/16 stud, or helicoil it like qman said

#14 ru4x4ever

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 04:15 AM

Oversize meaning to drill and re-tap say....8mm or something like that?

#15 MilesFox

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 04:17 AM

the card in the window has landed us a few soobs. also we have recruits that keep an eye out for them

a lot of times people who are driving them are driving them just because its a car, and could care less that its a subaru.

maybe it would be wise to find cheap cars and fix them up, and just trade them even up for soobs.

#16 Skip

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 09:39 AM

RU4x , looks like Donald is a bit confused as to which post he is answering.
Yes to your question but larger than 8mm. Tom has used American standard size also,as Donald said


#17 MilesFox

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 12:27 PM

my response was supposed to go to The_Bard over in "Saw a wagon last night" can it be moved there?

#18 archemitis

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 12:32 PM

5/16 coarse has fits right in to stripped holes, even without taping on my ea82s.

#19 MilesFox

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 12:49 PM

i have seen half inch diameter bolts with major course threads shoved into exhaust holes myself.




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