Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

El Inferno has the stutters still


Phizinza
 Share

Recommended Posts

So, even though she's got no more ECU error codes when I plant it when going up hill under about 2K RPM she just stutters and doesn't accelerate. Feels like fuel cut.

(btw, El Inferno is my Brumby, and she's a biatch.)

 

Just wondering if anyone else has this issue and if its just normal or what ever.. Doesn't really bother me, I just though it was a symptom of the VSS 33 code.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Same issue I have, I had seen that you got quite excited when it seemed to go away when you made a VSS, but kept my mouth shut because mine does it and I have a stock VSS hooked up to it. The only code mine throws is a Code 51, which is for the neutral position switch. It only shows up when you drive the car with the green connectors together, it isn't a stored code. I have a feeling that the lack of a neutral switch has a lot to do with the occasional stalling when coming up to a stop. The computer doesn't realize that it has to fuel the engine after being in coast/decel mode with no fuel when you push in the clutch. This causes the engine to stall out before the computer can open up the IAC and resume fuel injection. Or so goes my theory, and i see the car nearly stall and recover last minute all the time which seems to support it.

 

The bogging when going past 3/4 throttle under 2krpms is annoying, though truthfully you woudn't get much more acceleration if the throttle was all the way open. I consider it a bit dangerous because I doubt that another driver would remember to lead it up with the throttle in an emergency situation. They would stomp, and it would sputter, and they would be creamed by the oncoming semi.

 

I havent hooked up a clutch switch to the ECU to act as a neutral switch for the only reason that it's a PITA to fit in under that dash and there's allways a lot of mud/dirt on the floor. If you would be so kind as to do it on your Brat, I would be very interested in the results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also have no neutral switch wired in..

 

Fixing the VSS problem helped a few other things which were much mroe important. Like random idle (at least it didn't stall like when I was having the 24 IAC error.) Also was juttering the driveline a lot when taking off which it doesn't do now.

 

I don't really mind, because, as you said you won't get any more power.. I just was wondering if I still have a problem or if thats just how the stupid ECU works.

 

I have noticed with the VSS wired in when I put my foot on the clutch it idles at 1400 until I stop, then drops to 750. But if I decelerate its happy to drop below 1400 while in gear decelerating...

Just weird I guess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

huh, mine does that a little bit. but only under 1500 rpm and under a lot of load (WOT, at least 3rd gear, or 2nd up a steep hill). then it feels like it's running rich, and if I ease off the throttle to about 3/4, then floor it @ 2k or so.

 

 

while mine is out of commission this month, neutral, VSS, and starter switches will all be wired into the ECU. and I'll be connecting the CEL to the light on the dash. I shall see if I notice any difference (although it'll be some time yet before I can drive it).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I get a slight stumble at idle.

 

Partially b/c I hooked up the thermometer wire to the temp wire to the ECU. I think the signal drain is causing problems there.

 

Will get it corrected soon. I did that b/c my stock BRAT temp wires never worked and I was afraid to run the car w/no temp gauge. One thing that I have determined is that EJ18 w/stock EA81 radiator w/the fan on all the time works just fine. :banana:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I wired my temp wire into the cluster as well... Haven't noticed an issue. Although my temp gauge has been adjusted so many times by accident while removing the cluster and opening it up to stop a squeak in the odometer.

I run stock EA82 rad with modded inlet and outlets. Its a dual core and I use two aircon fans from a mazda on the front of it running off the original thermo switch in the rad. It only turns on when I stop and idle for a couple of mins in traffic. But it hasn't been tested in hot weather yet, only 28 - 30 degrees C. Wonder how it will go in the 40C+ weather.. Time will tell I guess.

The problem with the stutters isn't bothering me anymore so all is ok. And now I've fixed the backlash in my rear driveshafts (welded diff took its toll on the DOJ's back there) the car feels sweet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...