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All about changing Spark Plugs.
Posted 07 December 2003 - 07:02 PM
The first one, I want to know if the symptoms I'm having could be caused by a fouled spark plug.
The second one, I want to know what spark plugs you guys use, how to gap them, and what to torque them to (basically how do I change my spark plugs :-))
I dont know how many of you saw this thread
but basically a spark plug shot out of the hole and stripped the threads on its way out. I was going to Helicoil it myself, but due to no garage and bad weather (not to mention laziness) I just took it to Smart Subaru Service in WA.
So now my car is all repaired, but I'm still having some small issues.
Whenever I turn my car off for even a few minutes, when I try to drive it again it drives like it's completely cold. The car will spit and sputter and will act like it's about to die unless I floor it and get the revs up. The wierd thing is, this happens regardless of the temp. I was on the freeway and had been driving for about 30 minutes when suddenly it started sputtering at a certain RPM level (say, 2500-3000).
This issue didn't happen before I had the repair job done. I THINK they just used my old spark plug, so I was wondering if you guys think this could be caused by a slightly damaged spark plug? It's possible that it was banged around when it shot out, and that they didnt fix it when they put it back in. It could also be my carb, but I'm hoping it's the cheaper problem right now.
Second... what tips do you have for changing spark plugs.
I've never done it before, but I can't imagine it'd be that hard. What plugs should I buy? How do I gap them? How tight do I put them in? Any tricks I should be aware of to avoid damaging the heli-coiled S/P hole?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Posted 07 December 2003 - 09:27 PM
Get a new set and replace them all.
Clean out around the old plugs best you can before removing them to keep crap from falling into the cylinder. WD-40 works well, but can be messy.
Use a gapping tool to set the gap to factory spec for your motor. Be very gentle with the new plugs, they are fragile and can break internally from just a short drop.
Put lots of anti-sieze on the threads of the new plugs.
Turn them in until they are finger tight. I like to turn them back and forth some to spread the anti-seize around. Then tighten them to the manufacturers spec.
I also use di-electric grease on both ends of the spark plug wires.
Go ahead and get a new set of wires while your at it.
Posted 07 December 2003 - 10:51 PM
Put the hose on the top of the spark plug and get it seated in the hole, turn it counter clockwise first until it mates to the threads, then start tightening until the hose starts to slip.
Sounds corny, but it works. I second what Beauregaardhooligan said. Anti-seize is your friend.
Posted 08 December 2003 - 02:34 AM
Bear in mind, that I am in Europe and part types and availabilty are probably not the same as "across the pond".
Recommended torque is 15Nm, which essentially means tight enough to collapse the gasket and no more. It's a long, fine metric thread, and it will not loosen easily, so don't worry about under-torquing it. Just a firm hand and don't force it tight.
Bosch "Super 4", with four electrodes were not a success, by the way. And don't re-install a plug that you have taken out, the gasket is only good for one fitting.
Posted 08 December 2003 - 02:16 PM
Go buy NGK plugs.. ONLY USE THEM (Platniums are a lil nicer)
Get a plug gaping tool and gap then from .42 to .47
I believe NGK's are pre-gapped pretty close to what soobs need to run. Antisneeze those bastards and hand tighten them in.
If you have any mechanical sense at all, you can feel the threads starting to grab on the first 1/4 turn (hand tightening)
Also what kind of engine do you have?
And someone said something about dropping a plug. Never use a plug that you've dropped.. Chances are the guys at Napa or what ever store you goto have probably dropped the plugs once or twice already.. (A friend of mine had the electrode break out of the middle of his plug in his brand new 2003 RMK 800 snowmachine... needless to say, it seized the engine.. when we pulled the pistons you could see where the electrode and rings met..
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