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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Should I clean, replace or rebuild my carb?


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6 replies to this topic

#1 Gyoas759

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Posted 04 November 2007 - 02:34 PM

I've been playing around trying to get my 82 GL up and running. It's got the dual range 4x4 in it. I've checked all the lines from the fuel filter forward and can't find any leaks or clogs so I'm assuming that the carb is responsible. I have no previous carb experience and I'm trying to figure out what to do next. I have an extra carb from an 84 GL-10 Front wheel drive and another EA81 carb from who knows what. Both these carbs look different from the one on my GL. The only markings I can find on the extra carbs are F3 and F4 on the flappers inside.

I've already used over half a can of Wal Mart carb cleaner on the existing carb with no notable change. The GL has sat for 6 years before I got it, so I'm thinking I should probably assume the worst. How hard is it to rebuild the carb with no prior experience? Or how easy is it to swap over to one of the other carbs? If it's doable, which one should I use? Or is there something I'm missing that might fix this?

#2 Gyoas759

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Posted 04 November 2007 - 03:12 PM

P.S. which might make the decision easy for me. The carb that's in there says "Manufactured by Carter Weber" Is this the same Weber carb that is used as an upgrade? And where would I find the model number or whatever on the carb to find a rebuild kit?

#3 jonas

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Posted 04 November 2007 - 03:32 PM

6 y/o fuel in the tank?

#4 Gyoas759

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Posted 04 November 2007 - 03:42 PM

6 y/o fuel in the tank?


Already took care of that. Drained the tank, put in some marvel mystery oil and 6 gallons of fresh gas.

trying now to remove the Carter Weber. I removed the nut from the mounting bolt in the back and can't seem to find where the others are. Any help here?

#5 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 12:20 AM

Already took care of that. Drained the tank, put in some marvel mystery oil and 6 gallons of fresh gas.

trying now to remove the Carter Weber. I removed the nut from the mounting bolt in the back and can't seem to find where the others are. Any help here?


There's two bolts that come up from underneath :lol:

The Carter/Weber is JUNK. Even harder to find parts for than the Hitachi. And no, it's not the same as the Weber DGV. The Carter/Weber is an abomination of a carb. Scrap it, and the manifold too.

GD

#6 Gyoas759

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Posted 06 November 2007 - 08:06 AM

There's two bolts that come up from underneath :lol:

The Carter/Weber is JUNK. Even harder to find parts for than the Hitachi. And no, it's not the same as the Weber DGV. The Carter/Weber is an abomination of a carb. Scrap it, and the manifold too.

GD


So how hard would it be to swap in the manifold from my GL-10? Is it a simple bolt on procedure? What do I need to know before I start swapping it in? And is the F3 or F4 better. (Or is there an easier way to tell which type of Hitachi I have?)

#7 hatchsub

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Posted 06 November 2007 - 11:23 AM

Manifold is simply a bolt on procedure. Make sure the matting surfaces are clean and flat. Do NOT use any sealant and only use dealer intake gaskets. Get a torque wrench and tighten the intake bolts down to 12ftlbs. As for the hitachi's..just pick which feels better..ie less throttle shaft play. There is also a difference between an EA82 hitachi and an EA81 hitachi so make sure you use the EA81 hitachi. And i second what GD said about the carter-weber. What a hunk of junk. I had one on my sedan originally. Never did run right and the car only had 52,000 miles on it when i bought it.




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