4WDFrenzy Posted March 7, 2008 Share Posted March 7, 2008 Oh, and to those who don't know, Sea Foam makes an aerosol called Deep Creep, that from what I have heard can be sprayed into the intake stream. I have not used it, so I cannot verify this. Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilDead Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 You have to take loose a vacuum hose on your intake manifold(better choice) or on the intake pipe itself. Start the engine, and believe it or not, stick the loose vacuum hose in the can and throttle up the engine(holding it at a higher rpm so the engine won't stall). Let the engine suck out about 1/4 to 1/3 of the can, then finally let the engine suck in enough to stall(take hand off of throttle). Let set for about 10-15 minutes. Reconnect the vac hose and restart engine. Take it for a drive and you're done!(Well, almost.) I would strongly suggest changing the oil after doing this as some of the particles and deposits will wind up in the engine oil and will contaminate it. I hope this helps. Patrick Ya got an exact picture of this said hose, for us noobs of course. And what what hose to use for us EA82T fellas. Stuck some in the gas tank in the RX last night...and a spoonful of sugar in the oil. I considered playing with some of the intake hoses myself, but was unsure which would gain the most to all cylinders. And yes I'll be changing my oil I hope soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 Here's a question I have. This weekend I'm hoping to get a can of SF and stick some in the oil, Cause I have a lifter that ticks light and sometimes hard when you put a load on the it. Like driving slow thru a parking lot or stop and go kinda thing and sometimes it just does it. I don't mind the light tick. But sometimes it get's hard sounding. I'm thinking there must be some dirt/sluge in ther and that's what is causeing this. It doesn't do it on idel or reving it (And I put it up there "4000rpm") Anyhoo my question is, Should I just add it to the oil while it's full or should I get some of the oil out then add some Seafoam? Thanks, Tom PS: I will change the oil after I run it for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chef_tim Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 Here's a question I have. This weekend I'm hoping to get a can of SF and stick some in the oil, Cause I have a lifter that ticks light and sometimes hard when you put a load on the it. Like driving slow thru a parking lot or stop and go kinda thing and sometimes it just does it. I don't mind the light tick. But sometimes it get's hard sounding. I'm thinking there must be some dirt/sluge in ther and that's what is causeing this. It doesn't do it on idel or reving it (And I put it up there "4000rpm") Anyhoo my question is, Should I just add it to the oil while it's full or should I get some of the oil out then add some Seafoam? Thanks, Tom PS: I will change the oil after I run it for a while. I would strongly suggest Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in the oil, you may have to do it a couple of times (depending on gunk build up) but it will definately clean it up. Later, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 I would strongly suggest Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in the oil, you may have to do it a couple of times (depending on gunk build up) but it will definately clean it up. Later, Tim I used to run MMO in it, And yeah that's good stuff too. Maybe I'll do that. BTW what is wrong with the SF in the oil? Just to harsh? And should I just put it in when the oil is already full or should I have the oil a little low and then add some MMO or SF? Oh and is the ticking going to harm the lifter? It sounds like it might not be getting alot of oil sometimes (Maybe caused from dirt). In the past (Last summer) my dad and I ran an engine flush from "Gunk" and alot of sluge and dirt came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellets Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 This is wonderful stuff. When my 88gl wouldn't continue to run when started, a half can of seafoam in tank soon cleared the problem.It hasn't returned. It is also great in chainsaw. When it starts dying and acting up, A couple of tablespoons in tank will cure it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 Alright, I'm going to Wal-mart today. So I NEED to know which I should buy and run.. And should I add some to the oil when the oil is full, OR should I add some when it's a little low? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 After thinking about it, I'm going to get some MMO like Chef Tim said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P K Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 Doesn't have to have 'secret' ingredients. It has worked well for me especially in Suby's. Particularly O2 sensors. BTW IPA is also drygas. Dave For years, I thought IPA was Indian Pale Ale. I usually have some when watchin Seafoam at the Marvelous Mystery Ocean. r/ PK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 Alright, I'm going to Wal-mart today. So I NEED to know which I should buy and run.. And should I add some to the oil when the oil is full, OR should I add some when it's a little low? add the seafoam and/or mmo just before an oil change, or change the oil afterward anyway. put about 1/4 or so of the can in the oil and change the oil after a few days driving or something like 100 miles. changing the oil is recommended because all the junk that gets loosened up is now floating around. dont worry too much about the oil level. according to the dipstick, you could be a quart either way of the full mark without too much troubles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 add the seafoam and/or mmo just before an oil change, or change the oil afterward anyway. put about 1/4 or so of the can in the oil and change the oil after a few days driving or something like 100 miles. changing the oil is recommended because all the junk that gets loosened up is now floating around. dont worry too much about the oil level. according to the dipstick, you could be a quart either way of the full mark without too much troubles. That is what I needed! Great answer Miles! So 1/4 of a can ok that sounds good. Yeah I will be doing an oil change after I run it for a day or so. I'm going to run SF in the old oil and for the new oil, I'll be useing Castrol GTX 10w-40 and it has sluge protection in it and Yes... I'm useing a OE filter. Again, Thanks sooooo much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 well since you would already have the can, pop off the hose to the brake booster and stick it in the can pf sea foam. start the car till it sucks about 1/3d of the can into the motor. the car will want to stall so you will have to hold the throttle open. once you sucked in enough sea foam let the car stall out or turn it off and let it sit for about 10 minutes. put another 3rd of the can in the gas tank put the last of it in the oil after 10 or 15 minutes get in the car and drive it around. holy smokescreen batman. that is how to use sea foam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 well since you would already have the can, pop off the hose to the brake booster and stick it in the can pf sea foam. start the car till it sucks about 1/3d of the can into the motor. the car will want to stall so you will have to hold the throttle open. once you sucked in enough sea foam let the car stall out or turn it off and let it sit for about 10 minutes. put another 3rd of the can in the gas tank put the last of it in the oil after 10 or 15 minutes get in the car and drive it around. holy smokescreen batman. that is how to use sea foam Yeah I was going to do that, But I got up a little to late and it was getting cold out. So all I did was the oil, And changed it. Ran the Seafoam for about 20min between ideling and reving and held at a higer RPM (2000-3000) And trhen I did the oil change. So I guess it must have fixed it. A big chunk of slugey dirt came out and some smaller ones. Do you think I can still do the Booster with out changing the oil again? If not, it's no biggie. It runs pretty good right now. I did put some SF in the gas a few months ago. And the best part is that my oil leak isn't worse It's still the drip-drip like before. And yes, I will be fixing that along with the Cam cap O-rings and the T-belts after I get my real licence (Apr 30th). Thanks for all the help Miles.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chef_tim Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 If you're getting chunks of crud comming out you may want to do the process a couple of times. I've had some that took three rounds with MMO before they really started smothing out. Later, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 Yeah I was going to do that, But I got up a little to late and it was getting cold out. So all I did was the oil, And changed it. Ran the Seafoam for about 20min between ideling and reving and held at a higer RPM (2000-3000) And trhen I did the oil change. So I guess it must have fixed it. A big chunk of slugey dirt came out and some smaller ones. Do you think I can still do the Booster with out changing the oil again? If not, it's no biggie. It runs pretty good right now. I did put some SF in the gas a few months ago. And the best part is that my oil leak isn't worse It's still the drip-drip like before. And yes, I will be fixing that along with the Cam cap O-rings and the T-belts after I get my real licence (Apr 30th). Thanks for all the help Miles.. yeah go ahead and put the rest down the booster hose. the oil change was only necessary for putting sea foam in the oil. run the last of it down the booster tube, and call it a day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 If you're getting chunks of crud comming out you may want to do the process a couple of times. I've had some that took three rounds with MMO before they really started smothing out. Later, Tim Yeah that was one thought I had, But It was only one chuck about half the size of a Dime. and some very small particals. Well I did drive it today and I didn't hear anything. So if it does start up again I will do another flush with the Seafoam or maybe the MMO. I shouldn't have gave all the credit to Miles, That was wrong. And I kept thinking about that today.... You did give me some good advice. So the Credit go's to Miles, Tim, and The Beast I Drive. Miles, Yeah ok I'll see about running it in the booster nexted weekend. (This week sucks, Snow and a few cold days) You think it'll ever end...:-p Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chef_tim Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 We're all in this together, the importaint thing is you showed appriciation for the help you got. :headbang: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 We're all in this together, the importaint thing is you showed appriciation for the help you got. :headbang: That's great to know, And yeah any time I get help with a question or anything I always have much appriciation for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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