myossfeece Posted December 30, 2003 Share Posted December 30, 2003 Yeah yeah it's out of commision. 138,000 mile turbo motor spun a rod bearing. If I'm not mistaken I believe that low-end torque (luggin the motor) will spin bearings, not so much high rpm. N E Ways I have a carbeurated motor with the intake and gummed up carb. removed. Next step is yanking the heads off it and gettin my turbo top end gasket set. I will put the turbo heads and intake on this block, after a thourough tear-down and rebuild. will port the heads out a bit to allow for quicker turbo response and less turbo lag. Will grab a new clutch plate as the current clutch has been smoked twice by 1abaja. Damit yosh! j/j! Hopefully the motor build will be worthwhile i the long run. I got the carbbed motor from ro-neece after he tryed to take the st. joe river and sucked some water up into the intake, and stalled it out. We then left it in the river over night and pulled the car out with my car which was 88 gl sedan in volcom_don signature. We got the motor started and it poured out with white smoke when he would get on it. he changed the oil in it and it straightened right out. Then the wagon was forced into being parted and junked. I then rescued the motor and the x-pipe exhaust. It has been setting in the carbola for about a year with motor oil in it and new Ngk plugs in it. Water in the crankcase won't hurt the rodbearings. It's coolant in the crankcase that tears everything up. I think the motor will hold up just fine. will post more as the project comes along Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 30, 2003 Share Posted December 30, 2003 yeah, that carb motor will be good, only 135,000 miles, it never ran low on oil yosh probably did the rx in running it low with the leaky cam cover anyway, top end issues will be yout main concern, combustion issues. i wonder if EA81 threads will work on ea82, for the head studs, if the length is right too but getting aftermarke tstuds would be rather expensive, i think but i recommend studs if we can find a way to use them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myossfeece Posted December 30, 2003 Author Share Posted December 30, 2003 yeah I could probably get some studs for kinda cheap. shouldn't have any top end issues that I can tell, I have never ran the rx low on oil, but yosh did a few times. I have never ran the rx hot either. I'm hopin it goes togther without a problem. I don't see any thing that may cause a problem with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 i never known it to get hot when i knew the first owner 5 years ago. and it sat all that time before yosh got it new valve stem seals in yout gasket kit take the valve springs out to install them, that is when u port and polish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 remember the carb pistons are higher comp than turbo ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myossfeece Posted December 31, 2003 Author Share Posted December 31, 2003 yeah the turbo pistons are a 7.7 to 1 compression whereas the carbed pistons are 8.5 to 1 compression. This will help out on low end torque, before the turbo gets goin fast enough to pump boost. That is where most of my advantage will be. running stock boost with the carbed block, I think it will be just within the limits, without preignition or detonation as a side effect. I think it will be alright but will keep everyone posted on the progress and any set-backs. Hopefully there aren't any though. If any one has any experience, tips of things to watchout for or keep an eye on then please feel free to let me know. thanks all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 i had a 9.5:1 compression isuzu turbo with 10lbs, and it didnt blow up from pre ignition. 7.7 is way too low, unless you have a hole in your turbo the size of your fist. i think the mitsubishis ran more than 7.7 but 8.5 should be great for a stock sized turbo, and stock boost. rage it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myossfeece Posted December 31, 2003 Author Share Posted December 31, 2003 yeah I think it will work. If anyone can think of anything to watch out for then please holla at me so I can read it and apply it by the time I do the swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1ABAJA Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 Originally posted by MilesFox yosh probably did the rx in running it low with the leaky cam cover Some things never change! Damn those leaky cam covers! Josh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 josh, so far u ran the trashwagon and the impreza out of oil due to leaky cam covers. good thing the legacy is new, or you will be runnin it low, too you got to develop the habit of checking the oil especially if u sell the car later on!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myossfeece Posted January 1, 2004 Author Share Posted January 1, 2004 yeah un huh!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myossfeece Posted January 11, 2004 Author Share Posted January 11, 2004 Got the turbo motor out of the RX and tore it down to a short block. Got the carbbed block torn down as well to a short block and cleaned up. Looks like it came off an assembly line, looks really clean. Got the turbo-side, head is ported, and the non-turbo-side head is in the process of being ported. Picked up the turbo top end set, and a rear seal. Will get the front crank seal, or "timing cover set" as it is stated in the napa book. Will be getting ready to start goin back together. Carbbed/Turbo RX. Will be pimp.l8ter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 myossfeece: ALL nonturbo EA82s are 9.5:1 compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myossfeece Posted January 12, 2004 Author Share Posted January 12, 2004 what 9.5 to 1? I thought the carbbed motors were 8.5 to 1. I may have some more posts then if it turns out all outa whack. thanks wjm, I appreciate you calling-me-out, I see it as a "heads-up" kinda so thank you much. will post mor as the project comes along. Slowly But Surely, it's comin along Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 12, 2004 Share Posted January 12, 2004 the 9.5:1 setup seems to be reliable...18k miles so far, over the course of a year and some. I need to update my sig. Ive never heard of anything other than 9.5:1 or 7.7:1 on an EA82 from the factory...but EA81 and older, all kinds of things. So no prob for the heads up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 13, 2004 Share Posted January 13, 2004 here is some pics of what we did so far http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/rxbuild001.html we blended in the valve reliefs on the pistons, and ported the heads. the top end of the motor is complete, new seals, intake mounted. the carb block will keep its oil pump, it will use the carb pulley. ac will be eliminated. all the seals are new except for the oil pan and front crank. but the belte will be installed with no covers, for ease of service Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myossfeece Posted January 13, 2004 Author Share Posted January 13, 2004 WJM, Got my back. I appreciate it man thanks. I got the top end put on with ported heads and "ported" pistons what? I hit the pistons with the dremmel and broadened the valve reliefs and the middle of the valve reliefs to make less of a hot-spot. Wjm, do you have to run premium fuel all the time? I will be ready to replace the turbo gaskets tomorrow and hopefully be drivin it around, listenin to the bumps. If it all goes well then I will have to update my signature, and if it all goes to hell, then I will still have to upgrade my signature so I hope it goes good. thanks again WJM, and good luck with any projects you may have aswell. l8ter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 13, 2004 Share Posted January 13, 2004 run the highest octane pump fuel you can. I run 93, premium, all the time. You get better fuel mileage too. Also, start with low timing setting, liek 14 or so, then gradually work up to the edge of detonation. I dont know how well it work on an 87+ car, but that is how i tuned it in on my 86. Also....if you ever get the $ to fill the tank up with racing fuel 100, or 110...you can run the timing up to 25 or more, and that thing will pull to no end. I didnt dremmel the thing...so we will see what yours does! Best of luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 13, 2004 Share Posted January 13, 2004 hopefully we now have a compression ratio of around 8.0. the pistons look the same as spfi, so i wonder if the carb motor has a longer stroke? and its compression ratio is determmined by the stroke, not the pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 we have the rx together now. we bass axkwarded the turbo, there was a clamp that was not tight, so i has to dismount the turbo to fix it. we tried all night to get iot started. it has to do with ign timing we found the timing belts were in phase, but 3 teeth off the crank. but that was an easy fix, no belt covers but now i see the haynes book, the firing order is 1324, i was thinking 1342. i had the rotor on the left of the screw, instead of the right, but i changed that. so to keep from rioning the battery, we pt up shop and called it a night so tomorrow we do the timing, nothing else to put back together. but i did pull the fender and replaced the headlight, rep[aired collision damage what i could. so the rx will be pimpin' less a fender! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myossfeece Posted January 14, 2004 Author Share Posted January 14, 2004 yeah, I not so sure the compression was as affected as miles seems to think tho. If it started out as a 8.5 to 1 before the piston "porting" then I would think it is around 8.25-8.0, but if it srated out as 9.5 to 1 then I would seem to think it's around 9.25-9.0 if It is even affected at all. If it comes down to it and pre-ignition or detonation is a side effect then I could always use some high temp silicone and stack two head gaskets on top of eachother. The added thickness would bring the head farther away from the piston, thus lowering the compression ratio. Semi diesel engines will have different thicknesses for head gaskets as a way of manipulating such high compression in a practical fashion. (e.g. changing pistons etc.) I really don't think it will be that big a deal though. The next part will likely be a boost gauge, and manual boost controller as a pair. l8ter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 It started as 9.5:1. The stroke and bore are the saem on all EA82s, and the T. Pistons are the same for all N/A engines. Turbo engines have 2~3 different styles of pistons that I have seen, but are all 7.7:1 I wouldnt be doubling up the HGs, can you say 'leakage?' what did you use on the pistons to blend the surface? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Will, I don't want to argue or anything, but my 88 FSM lists the CR of a carbbed motor as 8.5:1.. not sure where you got that all NA EA82s are 9.5:1... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Yeah, I know. my 1986 owners manual states that as 9.0:1. So when I was searching for engines, I was at a local subaru place, and I asked for carbed shortblocks, and not SPFI, they asked why, and I told them about the lower compression for turbo, which is why i want the carbed SB. But they said BS, its all the same part numbers. the only thing different is the fuel system. After looking at pistons for the SPFI, carb and MPFI, and seeing that they are all the same.......so, all non turbo EA82s are 9.5:1...unless the heads are different. So, until i see partnumbers and actual USDM engines what are otherwise...i firmly believe that all are 9.5:1. Some one please feel free to disprove me! I do not mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 we used a similar to a "roto-zip" bit for a dremel tool with the flex extension. i chamfered the valve reliefs, and worn down the little nougat between the reliefs, to kind of blend them in, emulate the "dish" of a turbo piston. i did notice about a mmillimeter clearance from the top of the piston and the deck. with all my soob experience, i see the pistons look the same as spfi pistons. But i have recalled the compression specs for motors, i hear of 8.5, 9.0, and 9.5 compressions. i also read that turbos have different stroke, i would assume that turbos have a short stroke, for rpm, and carbs have a long stroke, for torque anyway, i believe this motor will be very practical, reliable, and with the ported heads hope to have picked up 10 hp just right there. with my turbo wagon, i noticed that the turbo came on at around 2000 rpm, sooner than the RX. (2500 rpm) but the car did not run when i got it, needed head gasket, so i dont have anything to compare the ported heads to a "before" but compared to the RX. it had enough torque to rip a tire loose in 2nd gear, from rolling, when the car ran right. i got it running mostly right to have it take a dook as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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