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P0106... It's back again


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7 replies to this topic

#1 Fairtax4me

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 11:06 AM

MAP/Baro sensor range/performance

So I had this code pop up a few weeks ago. Replaced the vacuum hoses, Map sensor, and switching solenoid. Also checked operation of the check valve and it seems to work fine. Drove it 15 miles and the code is back. Got the parts from a junkyard, so I suppose its possible the sensor could be faulty. But what else could cause this code? Only comes up when it's on the highway after cruising for 5 or 6 miles. Wiring is all clean, no cuts in the insulation, no kinks or crimps. Nothing to make me suspect a broken wire at least. Any ideas? Anyone know how to test the sensor to see if its working properly?

#2 nipper

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 04:25 PM

Why did you replace ALL those parts. You only change one thing at a time. If you have the original parts from the car, put them back on. Then change just the sensor and check for vac leaks, and make sure the electircal connector is good.

Also computer codes are a tool, not the answer to all problems. you stil have to do diagnositics.


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#3 OB99W

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 04:56 PM

If you haven't already done so, scroll down to the bottom of this page and look at the ''Similar Threads'' for some ideas. If your car has the in-line filter, it might be partially obstructed.

#4 Fairtax4me

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 10:56 PM

96 ej22 if anyone was wondering... (always forget that part)

I did search earlier and all of the threads I skimmed through the answer was either the MAP was the wrong part, the hoses were crossed, or there was some sort of vacuum leak. I've replaced all of the vacuum hoses except for the brake booster, and what I'm just guessing to be the pcv hose. It runs from a fitting on the manifold down to what looks like a flame trap, and from there down to the block.

In line filter? In line between the switching solenoid and the manifold? I've got a check valve there. I mean, I didn't put it there, that's just what's been there since I got the car. Is it supposed to be a filter? It's aligned to allow air flow into the manifold. From what I've gathered about how this setup works it shouldn't matter, but I guess you never know. You said "if your car has" so I'm guessing not all of them did, so it should be fine without the filter then correct?

I finally found the page in the horribly disorganized FSM that I downloaded that deals with troubleshooting the P0106 code. It mentions a Test mode connector. But I can't seem to find anything that mentions where it's located. Any help?

Edited by Fairtax4me, 08 September 2009 - 11:53 PM.


#5 OB99W

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 05:44 AM

In line filter? In line between the switching solenoid and the manifold? I've got a check valve there. I mean, I didn't put it there, that's just what's been there since I got the car. Is it supposed to be a filter? [...]

The configuration varies. Take a look at the emissions label that should be pasted to the underside of the hood.


I finally found the page in the horribly disorganized FSM that I downloaded that deals with troubleshooting the P0106 code. It mentions a Test mode connector. But I can't seem to find anything that mentions where it's located. Any help?

They're under the dash, to the right of the steering column, usually dangling.

#6 Fairtax4me

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 09:56 PM

Didn't get anything done with this today because I was screwing around with a fuel pressure regulator issue. Mine was leaking, and apparently so are both of the two that I grabbed from the junkyard. Only paid $2 a piece for them, takes 3 minutes to change it, but it takes an hour for the car to cool off enough that I feel comfortable spilling gas all over the place, right over top of the catalytic converter. :Flame:

The manual mentions it being a filter there, but I see no mention of it on the label. And taking a closer look I see that not much on the routing diagram is even right compared to my car... then I noticed the VIN sticker next to it. And it's not the one for the car. :rolleyes: So the hood was replaced at some point, and possibly someone screwed around with the vacuum hose routing. Which could be what's making the trouble.

Anyone know how to tell if this engine is even the original engine?

This is kind of making me mad. I expected to have issues with this car, but this isn't the kind of stuff I want to be wasting my time on right now.

second edit: The connector, is that the two green ones under the dash near the transmission tunnel?

Edited by Fairtax4me, 09 September 2009 - 10:16 PM.


#7 OB99W

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 07:08 AM

Since you might not have the factory setup, it's certainly possible that the vacuum hoses aren't properly connected. You might want to read http://www.ultimates...highlight=p0106 in detail. Also, if the correct connection for your engine ''T''s off the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, if you're dealing with a leaky FPR diaphragm that should be dealt with first.

Yes, the green connectors are the ones you're looking for. Connecting them will of course not only cycle the solenoid in question, but also the fans and several other things.

#8 Fairtax4me

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 10:13 PM

The plot thickens... Several times today I noticed the idle jumping around for a few seconds after starting. It levels out and stays steady for the rest of the drive afterwards, but it's adding yet another headache to the list. And the hard starting issue is getting worse. Now it sometimes needs to crank for upwards of 5 seconds before it will fire even when it's already warm.

I hooked up a clear hose in line with the hose for the FPR and I see no liquid moving through the hose after driving 20+ minutes. But I can always smell fresh gas in the hose after driving. I even replaced the rubber hose to rule out left over fuel, but no such luck. Fresh gas in the hose after each drive. I can smell it, but it's not enough to see any measurable condensation in the hose. Trying to find a new one is like pulling teeth. None of the local parts chains can even get one, :confused: and the Soob dealer has to order it if I get one there. Takes about 3 days for special order pats to come in unless its VOR. Then it gets there overnight, but I'd have to pay some astronomical shipping fee.

I did try the Test Mode that the manual talked about, and found that the switching solenoid seems to be working fine. So are both fans, and lord knows how many different relays under the hood and in the dash. Yet, the CEL has not come back on since the last reset. This will probably get put on the back burner until I get the FPR straightened out.

edit: Thanks for the link. One of the posters in there is from the same town as I. As a matter of fact I think he might even work for the Soob dealer. Name rings a bell but I'm terrible with names.

Edited by Fairtax4me, 10 September 2009 - 10:29 PM.





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