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I'm not familiar with NSW regulations on engineering relating to engine size (not kW) - in Vic it's no more than 10% more than stock without an engineering certificate ($$), but I do know your power-to-weight ratio as a P-plater can't exceed 130kW per tonne, which for a Brumby is pretty much that figure. So in terms of engines you can probably install a N/A EJ25, certainly an EJ20 or EJ22. In terms of wiring, given what you want, I'd highly recommend having a chat to Gannon in northern NSW. I went for a relatively simple swap (no ABS or cruise control), and Gannon's work made it a lot simpler. I would also speak to an engineer about the ABS in particular, as there could be all kinds of requirements. Putting an ABS system designed for a 1400 kg Liberty into a 950 kg Brumby isn't likely to be as simple as just dropping it in. Unless you really want it, I'd skip it. Your braking should absolutely be upgraded. The front struts can come from your donor vehicle (with some mix-and-matching of CV's and the top hat), your rears can use the donor vehicle backing plates (need to be modified) and calipers/rotors but the hubs will need to be XT6 (as Bennie mentioned, I should still have a set available from the batch coming in). Your handbrake will also change from front to rear. You might get away with a 4-stud rear disc upgrade depending on the engineer and your engine choice - an EJ20 is probably borderline, an EJ22 or higher I would hope an engineer would require the 5-studs. I would recommend the EJ gearbox, most EA's are getting long in the tooth and if you want awd you need a Vortex or RX awd box (very tough to find). Your existing box is likely the 4-speed, which is barely adequate for an EA engine. The later 5 speed from a L-series is much better. I believe the earlier Impreza's used a 3.7 ratio, which can match with your diff (it will probably be either a 3.7 or 3.9, but both are easy enough to find). Later EJ's used a 4.111 I recall. I have seen complete Impreza dashes swapped across into Brumby's. More work in terms of fitting, but it's an option.

Loads of info on this conversion - it's been done 1000 times before! Sorry to bust your bubble but it's not a direct drop in as such. Power steering: you'll need a PS rack from a touring wagon or sedan then have a set of adapters to mate the lines to the rack - or get custom PS lines made up. Cruise control: you could possibly use the EJ factory gear - just means more wiring and nutting out how to mount all the hardware in the engine bay. Or go aftermarket. The AP60 unit works well for me in my brumby and L series ABS: well you could probably do it if you can mount all the sensors for each wheel, keep the wiring to run it all and bend up new brake lines to fit the ABS module. You'll have to relocate the battery to the other side of the engine bay. You need to cut down the wiring loom to get the ECU to run the engine. There are ppl in Oz that can do this for you if you're not game. Or use the whole loom from the donor vehicle - just splice in the plugs from the brumby loom to run the tail lights, indicators, parkers and headlights. The EJ steering column can be made to fit to keep the combination switch for indicators and hi/low beam etc. it'd probably be easier than cutting down the loom to do what you want to do. You can fit the AWD box - you'll need to fabricate the gearbox mount points - again it's been covered. You'll also need to modify the shift linkages and have a custom tail shaft made up. It's recommended that you do a two piece to avoid vibration unless the company building it does a top effort on their balancing. Or you can get an adapter plate (look up Subarino AE on bookface) to mate to your current pt4wd box to the EJ engine using the EA flywheel and clutch. But being that you're a P plater I'd recommend the gearbox mod. One issue with this is that it'll be mismatched to the rolling tyre diametre compared to the EJ equipped vehicle it came from. There are ways to sort this with a diff ratio swap but unless you know what you're doing I'd recommend someone else doing it for you or put up with the 2wd and learn how to drive appropriately. Also best to check out what engineering requirements are needed with the Nsw RTA before you start this conversion. Ej22 conversions are very common and an ej20 is a good swap too if capacity is an issue for the RTA. You could go all out with a five stud conversion to run the EJ brakes as well. Dfyol might have a set of rear hubs up for grabs to do this brake conversion - this is the key piece needed to do this brake conversion. Have a scroll through the different threads in this forum, there are a couple of EJ conversion related threads on the go recently. And there are many more before them if you use the search function All that said, it's well worth the effort, especially if you keep it sleeper with the stock look if that's what you're after Cheers Bennie

Stick with an EA81 rack, it'll create less headaches! You'll find PS in the touring wagons, coupes (good luck finding one to part out) and some sedans. Then you'll have to adapt the EJ power steering lines to/from the pump and rack to make it all work. Cheers Bennie PS: still can't find that thread (on phone) - it's a beige brumby owned and built by a NZ member from memory. They did an EJ AWD box into the brumby with an EJ20 or EJ22. Looked super neat! Have a search, do some reading and see what you can find on the forum, link stuff you want to discuss in here I'm off to fix the heating now (house is iceblock spec, 8.2*C INSIDE!!! - at parents place )

5 speed will probably last longer depending on your driving "style". You can still do the conversion with the 4 speed using the adaptor plate then swap in the 5 speed later on down the track. At the end of the day they're both 2wd unless you find the rare L series AWD box with locking centre diff. Even then if you stomp it hard enough in the wet you can spin the front wheel/s as the centre diff is a simple open diff when unlocked. Theres a kiwi member on here who's done a neat conversion similar to what you're after. I'll dig up the link. Cheers Bennie

I can tell you from my experience that this is probably related to the clutch or electromagnetic coil that engages it. I had this issue with my last 04 forester and I was able to adjust the clutch gap and worked. not this time on my 2008 outback. It is a heat issue. I'm going to start a new thread.

1990 Loyale 96 Legacy ej22 Harness, flywheel, and adapter plate by Gloyale 5 spd dual range Rear discs ADF front 4" strut lift blocks SOS Fab for the rest of the 4" lift 225 70 15 Grabbers on 15" Peugeot wheels Yakima Loadwarrior with extension Snorkel And a bunch of other random stuff