Leaderboard

You’d be right in assuming that! As Moosen’s said, allow a bit of play - then test it out, you should have the hill holder let go just as the clutch takes up some bite. You don’t want the clutch to be fighting the hill holder (too tight). Test, adjust, test etc until you’re happy with how it behaves/feels when you use it. Looser is better than tighter - you’ll learn how to drive with how you adjust it. I disabled mine in my L series - had too many sketchy situations when reversing down steep hills I didn’t make it up. I just live without it and don’t really notice any difference really (my brumby didn’t get one so they’re basically the same to drive in that regard). Cheers Bennie

Set the clutch and allow 1/8” play to the hill holder engagement is how I recall that adjustment. But it’s been about a decade since I’ve owned one. If nobody else chimes in I’ll look it up in the manual. Or did you lose the nuts at the threaded end?

I used DRW bushings. They work well and I've heard good things about them. Some bushings will need to be burned out with a blow torch and cleaned up with a steel pipe brush. Some bushings have metal sleeves that allowed them to be pressed in upon assembly at Fuji. If you burned out a bushing and the replacement one doesn't fit, check to see if there's a sleeve. The sleeves have to be cut out with a hacksaw (some bushings are designed to fit inside the sleeves so double-triple check before you go cutting away) It may be a good idea to inspect all the other bushings as well as your strut mounts.