Mantonite
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Posts posted by Mantonite
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Well... everything looked all fine and dandy so I started with the tear down. Got the inner CV taken apart so I could slide a new boot on without issue. Went to take the pinch bolt for the ball joint out and IT SNAPPED. BOO! So now I have started to take the entire knuckle off so I can pull it out and drill out the busted bolt. Hope it was Grade 5! How many more of those will I run into? So for now it's all soaking in PB Blaster waiting for me to get back to it tomorrow. We shall see...
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That wasn't a problem... it just pulled the shaft out of the inner CV. I'm hoping that I can just put it back in, put on a new boot, and be on my merry way.Full diagnosis tonight when I get home.
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I'm guessing you pulled apart the DOJ on the axle when the ball joint broke.
DOJ?
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My '94 Loyale had an unexpected ball joint failure this morning, thankfully at low speed. Some questions: What else is likely to be broken (I know I need a CV boot)? Any tips/tricks/traps I should know about? Should I do the other side to be safe? Let me know what you experts think! Thanks.
What's going on with the formatting here???
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How would the gasket come into play?
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Interesting thought on the gage, but why would it read fine with one and not with the other?
Just had a thought... what would happen if I missed the glycol/water mix? Could the high pressure/overheating be a boiling off effect?
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check to see if the stat that works has a tiny hole in it to let air thru-and compare against the one that didnt work.
Yep, they both do.
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This one has me baffled.
When I got the car, I was told it had a cooling problem so I ran without a thermostat, then a 180 deg one. After the recent cold snap, I decided to swap it out with a stock unit. I swapped it out and promptly overheated. I pulled it out to double check I didn't totally bonehead the install and it was fine. Tried again with the same results.
Put the old one back in, and we are fine. The only oddidity is the upper rad hose seems to be under a lot of pressure.
Bad new t-stat right??? Nope, passes the boiling water test without a problem.
The only thing that I can think of right now is a bad rad cap, but why would it be fine with the 180 deg one but not the 190?
I know these have finnicky cooling systems, but this is a bit over the top. HELP!
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I'm pretty sure facing backwards would hurt performance. The low pressure vortex behind the tube would be difficult to breathe through.
Try it... stick your head out the window. Try to breathe facing forward, then turn around backwards (suggest you have someone else drive).
Just my $0.02.
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FIXED!!!
Got a TPS from a low(er) mileage Loyale, swapped it out and now I have throttle response! It took a little more than I expected to get the old one out (just two screws and a connector, right?) but it was worth it. Hopefully I'll even get better gas mileage out of the deal. We shall see...
Anyone rebuild old TPSs? If not, I'll tear into this one to see if it can be done/if I can spot the problem.
Thanks for all the help!!! Let me know if you want more details.
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Brakes are still brakes though... found an icy corner this morining and looped it. Oops. Other than that, Subys rock.
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Got 10" of snow last night... first time I got to play in the snow with the Loyale. Started up the hill and started slipping. Pushed the 4wd button and could not even get the tires to slip (except full throttle around corners
).I am now a true believer. Thanks to everyone here for showing me the light.
:headbang: :headbang: -
Well, I have a new (used) one on the way. I'll let you all know how it works out for me.
I don't know what I would do with myself if the Loyale actually had a little power... and just in time for snow (it snowed last night actually).
Thanks for the info.
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Your Soob sits a little lower than the truck (I have a 70 Chevy, too). You might catch a deer on the grill with the truck, but it's more likely to hit the windshield on your soob. Lifting off the throttle might be a good option.
Lifting actually makes the situation worse. As your bumper dives (under deceleration) the bumper gets LOWER making the deer MORE likely to meet you in the cab. Brake at first, but punch it just before you hit the deer... get the bumper as HIGH as possible.
Or just get a BFB (big ___ bumper) and don't worry about it. Go Mad Max style, and you could carry them right home on the spines.
Venison stew anyone? -
Thanks for the info. I had seen all of that before, but the "should go to zero at full throttle" is what I think mine isn't doing. I'm getting down to something like 1000kOhm, but not zero. I think I can get a new used one for about $20 plus shipping, so I think I'll give it a try.
Thanks for the reply.
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There are smatterings of TPS data here and there, but it's hard to search for (TPS is not searchable). I apologize if this has been covered, but I couldn't find it.
Can anyone give me specs on what the resistance should be closed and open (on the variable pins)? I checked mine tonight and it seems to be smooth, with only a few hiccups (that may well change when warmed up... it was stone cold when I tested). How sensitive is the car to these hiccups?
I have read some of the other threads and it seems that some have solved the problem that I'm having with a new (used) TPS... I'm hoping it will fix my bogginess and perhaps give me a few extra MPG to boot. Let me know what y'all think. If nothing else, post other links that are TPS relevant and this can be just a post for the search engine.
Throttle Position Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
there... it'll show up for sure now.
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The funny camber is there from new. Only way to get rid of it is to do some (fairly major) chassis bending, or put lower springs and/or struts in to lower the front down.
Why would they do something silly like that?
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So I just had to replace the front tires on my Loyale and I have the feeling this will be a frequent thing if I don't do something about it. What causes this big positive camber in the front of these babies? Is there something I can do to fix it? I haven't really looked at it so I don't even really know if I need to go up or down with the suspension to get it where it needs to be. I don't see any shot bushings or anything, so what gives (or already gave)?
Thanks in advance for the help!
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Round these parts we have ice racing (on the lakes). Watch the classes to see who you will race against, then you can decide if you will be competitive. MIRA has FWD, RWD, and 4/AWD classes, further divided into studded and non-studded.
If it's a racing organization worth it's road salt, they will have a similar arrangement to this or regular ol SCCA autocross.
I guess what I'm saying is to check rule books and last years' results as see what ya think!
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There isnt a way to recondition/repair them. Used or new is about the only way to go. Used is considered illegal but if you do the work I dont see how it would come back to get you.
I was wondering about *ahem* "reconditioning" them to allow better exhaust flow, not necessarily for functionality. Any idears there???
Note: I am in a non-emissions checking area/state.
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Well I got under there after putting on a muffler and did a feel check on the two cats, intending to remove the rear one. The front one was freaking HOT! That prolly means that it is clogged.
So... any suggestions on that one? I'm not going to pay for a new one, so how does one make this one better? Seems like it would be a bear to gut... any idears??? Any option for a (cheap) replacement?
BTW... thanks for all the help folks.
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Holy Crap! That is one GREAT post. Hope others see it! I'll check the TPS when I have time, but tonight will likely be spent putting a muffler on.
Regarding the power loss, it seems that I feel the change at about half throttle, but the magic point will change time to time. If I pump the throttle, sometimes I can get it to give me a bit more power, but still feels like she has more.
Engine doesn't knock when losing power (at least not that I can hear), but occasionally I do get what sounds like an intake backfire, which would indicate lean. I have heard (somewhere) that an exhaust restriction can also cause a lean backfire... anyone else concur?
Looks like I have some more work to do. Is the TPS an adjustable unit, or is it just good or bad?
Thanks for all the help so far. Hopefully we can get this subie running like a champ!
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Looks good but depends on how fast it returns to 20.
It gets to 20 when the engine gets back to idle... is that good or bad?
Remember the rapidly increasing in size hole in front of the muffler??? Well, I am now mufflerless. Fell off today, and I know what you are thinking... "sure it fell off, but it really did! Still have the issue. Time for a cherry bomb!
How do I test the TPS?
Ball Joint Failure - What to expect *FIXED*
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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That would be a great option (junkyard assy), but junkyards with any Subaru parts at all are hard to find up in redneckville, Mi. I'll make some calls though.